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I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. | 

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I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA- g 
•*:• •:• •:• ■:• •:• •:• •:• •:• •:• •:• v * •:• * 



1 



A TREATISE 

ON THE CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT 



FRUIT TREES. 



By CHARLES HARRISON, F. H. S. 

iLontron, 

GARDENER TO J. A. STUART WORTLEY, ESQ, M. P. WORTLEY HALL, 
NEAR SHEFFIELD, YORKSHIRE. 



SECOND EDITION. 

LONDON : 

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR ; 

And sold by 

BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY, PATERNOSTER ROW J 
CADELL, STRAND; RIVINGTONS, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH YARD ; HATCHARDS, 
PICCADILLY y AND TAYLOR AND HESSEY, FLEET STREET j 
EY G. RIDGE, KING STREET, SHEFFIELD. 

1825. 



TO 

. A. STUART WORTLEY, Esq. M. P. 

THE FOLLOWING TREATISE 

ON THE 

MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREES, 

BEING THE RESULT OF MANY YEARS STUDY 
AND EXPERIENCE, 

IS BY PERMISSION 
MOST HUMBLY INSCRIBED 

\ 

BY HIS GRATEFUL 

AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, 

THE AUTHOR. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Page 



On the proper soil for Fruit Trees, with directions for 

making fruit tree borders, 1 

CHAPTER II. 
On the situation and formation of Espaliers, 8 

CHAPTER III. 

On the aspect for each kind of Fruit Tree, with directions 

for properly arranging the trees, 10 

CHAPTER IV. 

On the choice of a Fruit Tree in the Nursery, with direc- 
tions for pruning it previous to planting, 14 

CHAPTER V. 

On the season and method of planting Fruit Trees, 27 

CHAPTER VI. 
On the best mode of training each kind of Fruit Tree, 38 

CHAPTER VII. 
On the most proper seasons for pruning Fruit Trees, 48 

CHAPTER VIII. 

On the necessity and advantages of spurring those kinds of 
Fruit Trees which are directed in this Work to be treated 
in that manner, e 57 



X CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IX. 

On the advantages and method of watering the roots of 

Fruit Trees, , 65 

CHAPTER X. 

On the advantages and method of watering the tops of 

Fruit Trees, 72 

CHAPTER XI. 

On nailing Fruit Trees, 77 

CHAPTER XII. 

On the method of applying compositions for the destruction 
of Insects, and counteractiag the effects of those dis- 
eases to which Fruit Trees are subject, with remarks 
on its effects and advantages, 84 

CHAPTER XIII. 
On Protecting the bloom of Wall Trees, 88 

CHAPTER XIV. 

On the necessity, advantages, and method of thinning Fruit, 95 

CHAPTER XV. 

On the advantages of thinning the leaves of Fruit Trees, ... 99 

CHAPTER XVI. 



On the advantages of mulching Fruit Trees, 103 

CHAPTER XVII. 

On the treatment of sickly Fruit Trees, in order to bring « 
them to a healthy fruitful condition, 107 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
On the treatment of vigorous Fruit Trees, 113 



CONTENTS. Xi 

Page 

CHAPTER XIX. 
On gathering Stone Fruit, t 116 

CHAPTER XX. 

On the treatment of the Apple Tree trained against a Wall, 

or as an Espalier, 118 

CHAPTER XXI. 
On the treatment of the Pear Tree trained against a Wall, 143 

CHAPTER XXII. 
On the treatment of the Plum Tree trained against a Wall, 



or as an Espalier; also in forcing the Plum in pots, or 



as trained in houses for the purpose, 169 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

On the treatment of the Cherry Tree trained against a Wall, 

also in forcing it, . 190 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

On the treatment of the Apricot Tree trained against a 

Wall 210 

CHAPTER XXV. 

On the treatment of Peach and Nectarine Trees trained 

against Walls, also in forcing them, , 221 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

On the treatment of the Vine as cultivated in a Stove or 

Vinery, also as trained against a Wall in the open air, 256 

CHAPTER XXVII. 



On the treatment of the Fig Tree as trained against a Wall 

in the open air, also in forcing it, 292 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

On the treatment of the Gooseberry Tree, , 298 



Xll CONTENTS. 

Page 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

On the- treatment of the Currant Tree, « 302 

CHAPTER XXX. 
On the treatment of the Raspberry, ... 303 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

On the treatment of the Strawberry as cultivated in the 

open ground, also in forcing it, 305 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

On the taking up, replanting, and future treatment of large 

Fruit Trees, 311 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 
On the renovating of old and neglected Fruit Trees, 315 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 
On the renovating Fruit Tree borders, 320 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

On the Orchard, in choice of situation and soil, with direc- 
tions for preparing it to plant in. Also the best form 
in which the trees should be caused to grow, with in- 
structions for pruning the Trees, and remarks upon 
those diseases to which the trees are subject, with the 
remedies for them, 322 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

On the various Insects which attack Fruit Trees, with de- 
scription of Compositions for their prevention and 
destruction. Also to cure Fruit Trees of the various 
diseases with which they may be affected 332 



CHAPTER XXXVII. - 



On Compositions proper for each kind of Fruit Trees, ....... 351 



A 

TREATISE 

ON THE 

CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT 

OF 

FRUIT TREES. 



CHAPTER I. 

The proper soil for fruit trees, with directions for making fruit 
tree borders. 

All soil contains more or less of vegetable 
or animal substances in a decomposed state, 
also of saline ingredients, which by become 
ing soluble in water afford sustenance to the 
tree that is planted in it. But as trees vary 
considerably in their nature and habit, it is 
necessary that the elements which afford food 
be varied in the proportion of their composi- 
tion, so as to be suited to the constitution of 
each tree. For the quality and quantity of 
food supplied, and the support and protection 
afforded to the tree, will determine its capa- 
city and produce. Particular attention is 

B 



2 



SOIL. 



therefore required in the composing and form- 
ing fruit tree borders, so that they may fully 
accord with the object in view. 

The soil of a fruit tree border ought in all 
situations to possess a good degree of adhe- 
siveness, but not so as to exclude at the same 
time an openness or looseness of texture; for 
whilst the former is required in order to re- 
tain water in such a degree that the soil be 
moist, but not wet, and thus afford nutri- 
ment to the tree; the latter is equally neces- 
sary, in order that whatever food is conveyed 
by water to the roots, may have free access, 
and also that heat may as readily as possible 
be admitted to them. In a soil possessed of 
such a tenacity and friability, the fibres will 
increase abundantly and run rapidly. And 
as it is principally by those that food is re- 
ceived up into the tree, consequently the more 
they are increased, the greater quantity of 
of food is extracted from the border, and the 
more the tree flourishes. 

Such a soil as this is also suitable for either 
a hot and dry or cold and wet climate, when 
the substratum is formed as will be hereafter 
directed. For in the former climate it will 
readily absorb and retain a sufficiency of 
moisture, whilst it will not be soon rendered 
dry by evaporation, neither will its tenacity 
be so great, as to cause it in hot weather to 
cake and crack. And in the latter climate 
it will be so porous, that it will not be too 



SOIL. 



3 



retentive of moisture, and it will also admit 
a due degree of warmth from the atmosphere. 

The soil of a fruit tree border ought always 
to be of such a nature as to absorb and retain 
a greater degree of moisture in a dry, hot 
situation, than in a cold and wet one; this 
may easily be effected by a strict attention 
to the forming of the under stratum, and 
which is of great importance in promoting 
the fertility of the trees. For if in a cold wet 
situation, stagnant water is retained about 
the roots, it is certain to produce a diseased 
tree. And if in a hot and dry situation, the 
water which is received be permitted to drain 
away too rapidly, the soil would not afford a 
suitable supply of nourishment without con- 
siderable labour in watering. 

A dark coloured soil is more heated by the 
rays of the sun than a lighter coloured one, 
when all other circumstances are equal, there- 
fore a dark coloured soil is preferable to a 
lighter one providing it be of the quality 
already described. 

When soil is found to possess too great a 
portion of clay, let some sand or road drift 
be mixed with it, and the whole be frequently 
turned over previous to planting the trees in 
it; also add some of the lighter sorts of ma- 
nure such as well rotted Tanner's bark, ve- 
getable manure, shell marl, or sea weed. 

If a soil be too light, it may be improved 
by an addition of some of a much stronger 



4 



SOIL. 



nature, as the lighter sort of clay, and an 
addition of well rotted cow dung*. 

It is always better to have a soil too light 
rather than one, too wet; for when it is found 
to be too adhesive after the roots of the tree 
have extended themselves in the border, a 
remedy to the soil cannot be well applied 
without damaging them; but when the soil 
is too light, it can be remedied, so as to afford 
the tree a sufficiency of food by an increase 
of manure or manure water. 

If a soil contains too great a degree of salts 
of iron, or any other strong acid, it will in 
proportion be sterile. This may be ascer- 
tained by using a magnet to a small portion 
of the soil, when the iron will cleave to it, 
and the proportion of each may be ascertain- 
ed; a good addition of quick lime will reduce 
the sulphate to a manure, and thus bring such 
a soil to a fruitful condition. 

None of the kinds of fruit trees treated upon 
in this work will require a soil more tenacious 
than that before described; but some will 
require it to be made rather lighter than 
others. Apples and Pears, require a strong 
loam, but rather the lightest for the Pear. 
Plums, Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines, and 
Apricots, a good deal lighter than for the 
Apple and Pear. ( See further remarks in the 
Chapter upon each kind of fruit tree, ) 

In forming a fruit tree border, the follow- 
ing is the method I pursue when the under 



SOIL. 



5 



stratum is wet. The depth of it should be 
three feet at the wall, and two feet six inches 
at the front, also twelve or fourteen feet broad. 
The surface of the under stratum must be so 
formed as to have an inclination from the 
wall to the front of the border, of twelve 
inches. After this is done, let a drain be 
made to run close to the wall, and in a di- 
rection with it, also another to run parallel 
with it at the front of the border. These 
drains must be open stone drains, and be so 
made that all superabundant water can be 
carried entirely away from the border. The 
drains must be so constructed that the tops 
of them may be about three inches higher 
than the surface of the following composed 
substratum. After the drains are formed, 
there must be laid all over the surface of the 
under stratum, three inches thickness of mo- 
derate sized gravel, (if gravel cannot be had, 
stones or brick bats broken to a small size, 
may be used for the purpose) upon this spread 
about one inch thick of fine gravel, or instead 
of it, strong road drift; then let the whole be 
well rolled or beaten firm together. After 
this is done, lay about three inches more of 
gravel or small stones which must also be 
rolled to an even surface, but not so as to 
bind them very close together. This method 
of forming the substratum of a fruit tree bor- 
der ought always to be attended to when the 
soil of the border is a very strong loam, unless 



6 



SOIL. 



the bottom is rocky or shaly, when it may be 
dispensed with. 

The formation of the substratum of a border 
in a hot and dry situation, or where the na- 
tural substratum is too open, must be accord- 
ing to the following method. 

The border must be the depth before de- 
scribed, also the same breadth, and the surface 
of the substratum must incline from the wall 
to the front of the border, about four inches. 

Two drains must also be made as in the 
other situation described. After the drains 
are constructed, let six inches (at least) of 
strong clay be spread over the bottom of the 
border. This must be beaten or rolled to an 
even surface; upon this lay about two inches 
thick of moderate sized gravel or stones, then 
one inch thick of small gravel or strong road 
drift, after which let it be well rolled, and 
lastly, two inches more of small stones or 
gravel which must be rolled to an even sur- 
face. After this is done the soil may be 
thrown into the space allotted for it. The 
surface of the border must in all situations, 
have the same inclination as the substratum. 

The practice of using small stones or gravel 
for forming the under stratum, is very far 
preferable to paving or slating it, which is 
practised by some persons. For the latter 
method prevents the water regularly settling 
down below the border, and a few inches of 
the soil nearest the slates, &c\ is kept in a 



SOIL, 



7 



moist, sour state by it. But the stones or 
gravel prepared as directed, allow any undue 
portion of moisture to filter away, whilst at 
the same time, they prevent the roots of the 
trees from penetrating the injurious substra- 
tum equally as w r ell as in the case alluded 
to. 

The border ought always to be made three 
months at least before the time of planting 
the trees in it, so that it may not settle much 
afterwards. Although this method of form- 
ing the border may be considered troublesome 
and expensive, yet attention to the method 
laid down, is of the utmost importance to the 
fertility of the trees. And the expense thus 
incurred is not near so great as what it would 
be afterwards, in endeavouring to render the 
trees healthy and productive, when such at- 
tention had not been paid at the first form- 
ation of the border. 



s 



CHAPTER II. 

The situation and formation of Espaliers. 

It is a practice very generally adopted to 
have a walk at the front of a fruit tree border 
to run parallel with the wall, and at the inner 
side of the walk, and about four feet from it 
to plant the Espaliers. The advantage of 
having them so situated is, that the border 
in which the trees are planted, can be pro- 
perly drained of any undue quantity of 
moisture, which draining is indispensible in 
such a situation, for a great quantity of water 
generally sinks down at the sides of the walk ; 
but by attending to the following directions, 
no injury whatever will be sustained from that 
source. 

The surface of the substratum of a wall 
tree border, is directed to be so constructed 
as to have an inclination from the wall to the 
front of the border of twelve inches, also at 
the front of the border a drain is made. As 
the soil of a wall tree border is commonly 
somewhat deeper than the general soil of a 
garden, a substratum, with a similar inclina- 
tion to the wall tree border, must be formed 
for the border in which the Espalier trees are 
to be planted. The substratum must regu- 



ESPALIERS. 9 

larly incline from three feet inside the Espa- 
liers, down to the drain at the front of the 
fruit tree border. Betwixt the materials of 
which the walk is composed, and the under 
stratum, there must be about eighteen inches 
deep of suitable soil for the roots of the wall 
and Espalier trees to run in, so that they 
may proceed forward without any obstruction 
whatever. (See remarks on this subject in 
making Vine borders. 

A cast iron trellis resembling a common 
street railing has been tried and found to be 
somewhat cheaper than a wooden one, but 
its chief merit is in the durability of it. A 
cheaper trellis, and equally as advantageous 
may be formed by having round cast iron 
posts fixed in stones, placed at six feet apart, 
and two bars, either of wood or cast iron, so 
long as to reach from post to post, and so 
constructed as to remain secure, when once 
fixed. These cross bars must be fixed, one 
along the top, and the other about twelve 
inches from the ground. There must be 
holes in them at nine or ten inches distance, 
so that wire may be stretched upright from 
one bar to the other, in order to secure the 
trees to them. Care must be taken to keep 
the trellis well painted, or coloured with coal 
tar. The height of the trellis ought not to 
exceed five feet, otherwise it would obstruct 
a general view of the garden, and also cause 
a great deal of shade. 



10 



CHAPTER III. 

The Aspect for each kind of fruit tree, with directions for pro- 
perly arranging the trees. 

The Aspect for some kinds of fruit trees 
may be varied according to the climate in 
which they are planted; for in some situa- 
tions, one sort may require a south Aspect, 
which in others, will do equally as well 
against either an east or west; therefore the 
distribution of the trees will depend upon 
existing circumstances. 

Never plant in cold exposed situations, a 
tender sort of fruit tree against an Aspect 
upon which the sun's influence does not 
fully operate; for although the soil of the 
border be suitable, yet the tree will not be 
productive, without the full influence of the 
sun upon the tree and border. This defici- 
ency of heat may in some degree be obviated 
where there is the advantage of flues*. 



* All garden walls ought to be furnished with flues, in order in late 
seasons to assist the maturing of the fruit buds, -as well as the ripening 
late fruit, and to protect bloom and young fruit from the severity of frost 
in spring; (this is more particularly required in cold situations,) the ex- 
pense of erecting a flued wall being the same as a solid one, for what is 
added in labour to the former is saved in materials. 



ASPECT. 



II 



In exposed situations where the walls are 
not flued, neither have the benefit of woollen 
nets for protection, ( See Chapter on protecting 
the bloom of wall trees) never plant any sort of 
fruit tree that blooms early in the Spring 
against an east Aspect, as on that Aspect 
early bloom is very liable to be injured and 
destroyed by frost and cold winds. 

As no one arrangement of wall trees will 
equally apply to all situations, I shall state 
what sorts will prosper well upon each As- 
pect, in a situation as elevated and cold as 
that at which I have the management of fruit 
trees, and which is as high above the level 
of the sea, as most gardens in the kingdom, 
also much exposed. Where the situation is 
different, the Aspect of a tree may be varied 
accordingly . Apples, Morella and May Duke 
Cherries, with any of the late blooming 
kinds of Plums, against an east Aspect; 
Pears, Apples, Cherries, and Plums, against 
the west Aspect; some of the choicest early 
kinds of Pears and Plums, against a south 
Aspect; Peaches, Nectarines, Figs, Vines, 
and Apricots, against a south Aspect. On 
a north Aspect plant Magnum Bonum and 
Wine Sour Plums, also Morella Cherries. 

Where there is a great extent of wall, it 
is advisable to plant trees of the same kinds, 
against different Aspects. Such as one or 
two May Duke Cherries against a south As- 
pect, which will ripen earliest, next against 



12 



ASPECT. 



either an east or west, and lastly against a 
north Aspect. By observing this method 
with Cherries and Plums the fruit will ripen 
in succession, and thus a supply of them is 
considerably lengthened. Also where there 
is a great extent of wall, always endeavour 
to plant together the early blooming fruit 
trees. For those kinds that bloom earlier by 
two or three weeks than others, w r ill, through 
the severity of the weather require some pro- 
tection, by heating the wall or otherwise, 
when, if early and late kinds were mixed 
together, the late sorts which did not require 
such protection, would be forced by it ; which 
in bringing out the bloom earlier than its 
natural season, causes a great deal of trouble 
ta preserve it, which would not have been 
occasioned had the bloom been permitted to 
expand at its natural season. Where the 
trees have each a separate protection of net- 
ting, &c. this injury will be avoided. These 
remarks do not apply so immediately to the 
southern and warmer parts of this country, 
as to the colder ones, but a knowledge of the 
climate in any situation must direct in the 
adopting suitable means. 

The distance at which fruit trees are to be 
planted apart, must depend upon the sort of 
tree, and the height of the wall. For to 
plant trees at the same distance from each 
other, although of the same species, but 
whose habits are materially different, would 



ASPECT. 



13 



not be acting judiciously. If strong growing 
kinds, and dwarf kinds, are to be planted 
promiscuously against the same wall, their 
distance from each other must be regulated 
agreeably to the habit of the tree. The dis- 
tance for each kind will be found in the arti- 
cle upon them. 



14 



CHAPTER IV. 

On the choice of a fruit tree in the Nursery, with directions for 
pruning it previous to planting. 

In the choice of fruit trees all possible care 
and attention is necessary, for to have a tree 
that does not give satisfaction, after being at 
a considerable expense in walls, borders, &c. 
is a great disappointment. 

Of whatever species or variety your fruit 
trees are wanted, choose those that are vi- 
gorous and straight, and of a healthy appear- 
ance. 

Whether they have been grafted or budded, 
be careful to select those that have been work- 
ed on young stocks. Grafts and buds are 
sometimes put into old crooked stunted stocks, 
but it is a very rare case to find such to suc- 
ceed ; on no account whatever choose one of 
this description. Those trees that are healthy, 
always have a smooth, clean, shining bark. 
Some people reject all young trees that are 
strong and luxuriant, I do not consider that 
of importance, because by removing them, 
the luxuriancy to which they were subject 
before, is checked, and after they are planted 
and headed down as will be hereafter di- 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



15 



reeled, they will not fail to become healthy 
and fruitful. 

Trees that are mossy, or have a rough 
wrinkled bark, or of a low slender growth, 
or such as are affected by canker, (which 
shews itself in the young wood and gene- 
rally two or three inches above the graft 
or bud) are to be rejected. If the tree be a 
Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, or Plum, and any 
gum appears on the lower part of it, do not 
fix upon that. Let the tree you fix upon 
(if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from 
the ground, and only one graft or bud should 
be upon each stock, for when there are more 
the tree cannot be brought to so handsome a 
form. 

I prefer maiden trees of one year from 
the working, with their entire heads, because 
I consider it of great importance to the fu- 
ture success of the trees, to have them from 
as early a period as possible under my own 
care and management, for without very great 
attention the first three or four years after 
budding or grafting, a tree may be so disfi- 
gured that it cannot be rectified, and may 
also have suffered so much by injurious treat- 
ment, that it cannot easily be recovered 
afterwards. 

If a tree has been allowed to grow for two 
years after budding or grafting without being 
headed down, such a tree is not so good as 
one that was headed down after having 



16 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



grown one year from the working, because 
some of the buds at the bottom part will very 
probably have broken and made shoots the 
second summer, but they are generally very 
weak, by reason of the tree having to sup- 
port such a large head of branches, and for 
want of a proper degree of sun and air; also 
it very frequently happens that such weak 
shoots perish in winter, and when the tree is 
cut down afterwards, its branches are gene- 
rally placed in a very awkward manner. If 
the graft or bud was very weak the first year, 
and not cut down on that account, but left 
to grow another season, it will do provided 
it has grown well the second year, because 
the shoots being weak the first season, the 
side buds will not have pushed as in those 
which grew more freely. 

I before remarked that a tree of one year 
old is what I prefer, yet some people are de- 
sirous to have trees that will furnish their 
walls more speedily, and bear fruit imme- 
diately. This object may be very readily 
obtained, for trees of this description may be 
had at most of the public nurseries. The 
only objection I have to this method is, that 
I find it very difficult to obtain them from 
those places uninjured. I have practised 
this method of planting trees that have been 
previously trained for several- years with 
great success, but they have been such as I 
have myself chosen of one year old, and 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



17 



pruned and trained till they had attained the 
size required. When trees of four or five 
years growth after heading down, that are 
healthy and well furnished with fruit bear- 
ing wood close up to the centre of the tree, 
can be obtained, they will do well ; but great 
care will be required in the taking up, re- 
moving, and planting them. It is very essen- 
tial to have a tree that is well furnished with 
voung wood in every part of it, particularly 
Peach and Nectarine trees, for when one of 
those kinds has, by injudicious pruning, been 
brought to such a state as to have branches 
destitute of young wood for one or two feet 
from their origin, it is with very great diffi- 
culty that it can be afterwards furnished with 
a proper supply. And it is particularly de- 
sirable to have a tree that has been trained 
for five or six years, suitably furnished in 
every part ; for the wood that is made during 
a few years at the first training, is what af- 
terwards forms the main branches. There- 
fore, whenever a Peach or a Nectarine tree 
does not answer the description given, always 
reject it. If a fruit tree of any of the other 
kinds is not properly supplied with wood, it 
may readily be obtained by shortening some 
of the branches, as they will push shoots a 
great deal more freely than Peaches or Nec- 
tarines. 

Of whatever species your fruit tree is, 
that is fixed upon, be very careful in taking 

D 



18 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



it up, and more particularly so if it has been 
trained for a few years. This is frequently 
very much neglected by those who have this 
part of the business entrusted to them, the 
roots are so often cut and mangled by the 
spade and other means, such as pulling up 
the tree, &c. that by it, trees which in every 
other respect were likely to do well have been 
ruined. Let the tree be taken up with as 
great a portion of the roots as possible, there- 
fore take the soil away round the tree so wide 
and deep, that it may be loosened under- 
neath, so that the roots may not be broken 
by any violence in raising the tree up, or 
mangled by digging amongst them. Never 
let either spade or fork be put into the earth 
near to the bole of the tree, as the main roots 
are very liable to be damaged thereby, and 
when one or more of such roots are split and 
not cut away, or some other means employ- 
ed to remedy the injury sustained, the tree 
is generally diseased afterwards ; therefore 
great care should be taken not to occasion 
such injury. 

Whenever, (notwithstanding all due cau- 
tion,) any roots have been accidentally bro- 
ken, split, or otherwise damaged in taking 
up the tree, let them be cut off ; or if they 
cannot be very well spared, let the damaged 
or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp 
knife, and an application of the following 
composition be spread over the wound in or- 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



19 



der to keep the wet from it, which otherwise 
would injure the tree. To equal parts of 
soft soap, and tar, add a little bees w ax, let 
them be boiled together, and when cold they 
may be used. 

The necessity of pruning in and dressing 
mangled roots, is more particularly required 
in trees of the stone fruit, such as Peach and 
Nectarines, &c. for without the application 
of some remedy, they gum at the roots, 
which defect if not counteracted, very mate- 
rially injures the tipper part of the tree. And 
from this circumstance, I have seen trees so 
affected as never to recover afterwards ; when 
if the little attention already directed had 
been applied, such injurious effects would 
have been prevented. 

Should a strong leading root be damaged 
near to a lateral one, it should be cut off 
close to it; for I have observed that when 
such a strong root has required pruning in, 
and it has not been cut close up to the last 
lateral, but an inch or more has been left, 
that the part so remaining has frequently 
rotted, and that afterwards the upper part of 
the tree has been affected by it. I have 



taken u 



) trees that were sickly, and have 



found the cause originating in the manner 
alluded to. The reason of such part rotting 
is, the descending fluid having a channel so 
near the end of the part left, it is diverted 
into it, and spends itself in the nearest fibres ; 



20 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



and the formation of a root, or fibre, at the 
extremity of the part left, is thereby prevent- 
ed. It may sometimes arise too from the 
circumstance that no eye has been left upon 
such part from which to expect a root, for I 
have frequently noticed in fruit trees that 
have been planted out in the natural ground, 
that lateral roots form themselves nearly as 
close to each other, as the buds are upon the 
shoots in the upper part of the tree. The 
small fibrous roots do not require so much 
exactness in pruning them to a lateral, as the 
larger ones do, because they will more rea- 
dily push new roots. But it is always 
necessary in pruning any root whether large 
or small, to finish by a clean smooth cut, 

A young tree likely to do well should have 
roots nearly corresponding to the branches, 
at least, it should have one strong root in a 
similar proportion to the bole of the tree, 
with a proper distribution of branching- 
fibres. Healthy roots are always smooth 
and clear, the colour of them varies a little 
according to the sort of the tree, but the 
older the roots are, the darker the natural 
colour is. 

When a tree has such a number of small 
roots as to form an entire tuft or mass of 
fibres, it is an evident sign of constitutional 
weakness, unless it has been planted in poor 
soil, or being confined in a pot, or otherwise, 
which will always be found to cause it to 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



21 



produce a greater quantity of fibres in the 
same length of root, than it would have done 
had it not been so confined. And when such 
a tree is turned out of its pot and properly 
planted, it will recover its natural habit and 
do well afterwards. But when the tufty 
appearance of the roots cannot be so account- 
ed for, the tree should be rejected. 

After the tree is taken up, be careful in con- 
veying it to the place where it is to be plant- 
ed, so that the roots are not chafed or rubbed, 
which would injure it considerably. If trees 
are to be conveyed a considerable distance, 
they should be well guarded by straw or 
otherwise, in order to prevent injury. 

All damaged bruised roots should be pru- 
ned as soon as the tree is taken up, but if it be 
required to prune away any sound good roots, 
that must not be performed until the time of 
planting, which ought to be as early as pos- 
sible after the tree is taken up. When the 
tree cannot be conveniently planted in a 
short time after taking up, let it be laid into 
some soil, and the roots covered to preserve 
them from injury. Trees that are to be 
conveyed a considerable distance will not 
suffer materially from being out of the earth 
for a week or ten days, provided they are 
packed up close at the roots, which in such 
cases should be well attended to; because 
the ends of the roots being so very tender, 
they are soon injured by a strong frosty air. 



22 CHOICE OF TREES. 

Should a tree have been taken up for such a 
length of time or even longer, and the roots 
have become shrivelled and d^, I always 
immerse them in strong soap suds (in a cold 
state) for two or three hours, after which I 
plant it. 

It sometimes happens that roots are form- 
ed in two separate whirls round the trunk of 
the tree, this is frequently caused by trans- 
planting the stock in an improper manner, 
for if the lower part of the soil in which it 
was transplanted be poor and barren, and the 
stock be planted deep, the roots which were 
upon it at that time, will seldom make much 
progress afterwards, and a new set of roots 
will frequently form themselves near to the 
surface where the soil is better. Also if the 
stem of the stock be injured just within the 
surface of the soil, it will generally push 
roots at such a place, although the stock was 
properly transplanted. When two separate 
whirls are formed, it very generally happens 
that the lowest tier of roots is weak and 
stunted, whilst the upper one is healthy and 
vigorous. It is very evident under such cir- 
cumstances that the lowest should be pruned 
away, because the sap has in that case in a 
great measure deserted such roots, which 
appears by their weakness, and by the trunk 
of the tree below the upper whirl of roots, 
being generally smaller than it is above 
them. In pruning them away, cut through 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



23 



the main trunk close underneath the upper 
whirl of roots. It occasionally happens that 
both whirls of roots are good, if they are not 
more than four or five inches apart, let them 
both remain; but if they are further apart 
than that distance, let the lower one be pru- 
ned away as directed. 

My reason for retaining the upper tier of 
roots in preference to the lower one is, that 
the tree thrives better with them, and more 
particularly so in trees of the stone fruit kind. 
Also the necessity of pruning away the lower 
whirl of roots when they are far apart is, 
that if both were allowed to remain when 
the tree was planted, the lower roots would 
be too deep in the soil to derive much benefit 
from the sun and air, and if planted in a 
border that has a bad subsoil they would by 
immediately striking into it prove injurious, 
by causing the tree to canker or be otherwise 
diseased. 

When a tree is supplied with a correspond- 
ing quantity of roots when compared with 
the top as before observed, do not cut them 
away, as is the practice of many persons, 
with a view to obtain new ones, for such will 
be produced in abundance from the sides of 
those with which the tree is at present sup- 
plied, the act of taking up and replanting 
the tree essentially contributes to promote 
their increase. Besides the young fibres 
being in an active state soon after planting, 



24 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



very much contribute to the speedy estab- 
lishment of the tree, which should always 
be promoted as early as possible. The only 
exception I make to the above practice is, 
w r hen the fibres are very much withered and 
injured from being out. of the ground a long 
time, or are otherwise damaged, in which 
case pruning away such injured and dam- 
aged parts is requisite. Also should the 
fibres be more numerous than desired, cut 
some of them clean aw ay to their origin; for 
if they be only shortened this will cause them 
to send out more fibres than before. 

Any strong roots near to the trunk of the 
tree, that have lain across before taking up, 
must now or when planted, be placed in 
their natural direction, if possible. If it be 
found necessary to retain such roots for the 
benefit of the tree, this must be done; but if 
not, prune them in such a manner that they 
will not be likely to grow in that distorted 
position again; for if they were allowed to 
continue in that direction, they would be ex- 
ceedingly injurious to the trees, particularly 
in trees of the stone fruit; for by it a proper 
circulation of the sap is prevented, and they 
are more liable to canker. When the fruit 
tree is to be planted, in order to place it _ 
properly against the wall, such roots as are 
in a direction that prevents its being done, 
must be pruned. If the tree has a sufficiency 
of roots without them, let them be cut clean 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



25 



away, but if not, and the roots cannot be 
placed so as to run in a direction on one side, 
let them be cut back near to the trunk of the 
tree ; and if there be a side root, let it be laid 
in such a direction, as that it will run from 
the wall. 

The shortening of such roots in the man- 
ner laid down, must not be adopted unless 
absolutely necessary; which will seldom be 
the case, but in extreme cases it may be 
practiced. For when roots are allowed to 
run in a direction to the wall, it always 
injures the tree. 

All roots that are inclined to strike down 
to the bottom of the border should be cut 
away, providing they cannot be placed in an 
horizontal direction. For when allowed to 
remain in their natural position, by striking 
so perpendicularly into the under stratum, 
they are injurious to the trees; by causing 
them to canker, and be otherwise diseased. 

In pruning away roots, always let them 
be finished by a clean cut, and in a sloping 
direction ; letting the slope be towards the 
under stratum, so that the wet may not be 
allowed to lodge upon the part so cut. 

When any large wounds are made, let 
them be covered with a composition ; ( See 
page 19) this applied to the wound keeps out 
the wet and prevents it from damaging the 
tree, which is the chief intention of compo- 
sitions used in this way. 

E 



26 



CHOICE OF TREES. 



In respect to pruning the tops of young 
trees, I never do it at the time of planting 
them, (unless they are sickly) providing they 
are planted in autumn, but if they be plant- 
ed in spring, and that season far advanced, 
it will then be necessary. 

If trees are removed that have been trained 
for three or four years, and are not properly 
supplied with young wood, they must be cut 
down, either wholly, or partially, in order to 
obtain a sufficiency. In practising this upon 
Peach and Nectarine trees, always prune so 
as to have a leading shoot close below the 
cut, as it is very rare they will push a shoot 
below unless there be a lead. This attention 
is not so particularly required in other kinds, 
such as Apple, Pear, &c. as they will gene- 
rally push forth shoots, although no leading 
ones were left; but in all kinds the younger 
the wood is, the more certain are shoots to be 
produced. If a tree that has been under 
training for one or two years, should have 
only one good strong leading shoot, and two 
or three weaker ones that do not proceed 
from it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean 
away, and shorten the strong one, from which 
a handsome head may afterwards be formed. 

Espalier trees require attention in the same 
particulars as are laid down for wall trees, 
only the roots can be allowed to'run on every 
side, which cannot be done to wall trees. 



27 



CHAPTER V. 

On the season and method of planting fruit trees. 

Fruit trees may be planted from the fall 
of the leaf until the rising of the sap in 
spring, but an autumn planting is preferable 
to any other when the soil is a suitable one. 
Nevertheless it is advisable to plant at differ- 
ent times according to the nature of the soil. 
If the borders are prepared agreeably to the 
directions given, in the Chapter on the choice 
of soil and on the formation of fruit tree 
borders, and have been formed such a length 
of time as to be fit to plant in at the latter 
end of October, or the beginning of Novem- 
ber, this is unquestionably the best season 
for the performance of this work. For if the 
trees be planted then, they will in many 
cases have pushed forth some new roots 
before the commencement of severe weather, 
and will have partly established themselves 
before the moving of the sap in the spring 
following; which will greatly assist them in 
making new wood the ensuing summer, and 
this will be considerably more vigorous, than 
if planting them had been deferred until 
spring. Therefore planting the trees at this 



28 



PLANTING. 



season ought to be attended to, when it 
possibly can be done. 

If planting is to be performed in winter, 
always do it when the weather is mild, as a 
frosty air soon damages the tender fibres. 
But whenever the borders are of a wet heavy 
soil, the planting must be deferred until 
spring; the reason for so doing is, that the 
roots will not strike so soon in such a soil, 
as in one lighter and more suitable for the 
trees, unless they be planted at the end of 
September or very early in October, when 
they probably might strike root before win- 
ter. But if not planted as early as described, 
it very rarely happens that they will strike 
root until spring, consequently the trees 
would have been much better to have re- 
mained in their previous situation until the 
time of their removal at the end of March 
or early in April, for the removing them 
certainly gives them a check, and by the 
soil being of a cold and wet nature, instead 
of the roots being benefited they are more 
frequently injured, and sometimes the ten- 
der fibres are rotted off. And in the spring 
when their assistance is wanted to aid in the 
speedy establishment of the tree, those rotted 
fibres spread their injurious effects to other 
parts of the root, and thus retarding instead 
of promoting its welfare. 

Whatever time of the year you may chuse 
for planting in, do not let it be performed in 



PLANTING. 



29 



wet weather, for in order to assist the roots 
in striking into the soil as soon as possible, 
it is requisite to press it a little, so that it 
closes upon them, which if done at such time 
the soil would become like mortar ; and 
when such soil becomes dry, it generally 
bakes very hard together, and in that state 
is very improper for young trees. It also 
frequently cracks afterwards so as sometimes 
to break the tender roots. 

But if the planting has been deferred until 
spring, and it is high time that the trees 
should be planted, and the weather should 
still continue wet, let as much mould as is 
necessary for the size of the hole be thrown 
out, and a few barrows full of drier soil be 
substituted for it. The soil should be of the 
same quality as the border, and if none of 
this has been preserved under cover for this 
purpose, let some from the border be taken 
and dried, till in a proper state wherein to 
plant the tree. 

When the planting is to be done, (the 
borders having been made a suitable time 
previous) mark out the proper distance from 
tree to tree as the respective sorts require, 
(See directions for this in the treatment of each) 
the longer time the holes are made before 
the time of planting the trees, the better for 
the soil, as it gets enriched by the atmos- 
phere. 

The size of the hole must be regulated ac- 



i 



30 



PLANTING. 



cording to the extension of the roots of the 
tree to be planted. It is the practice of many 
individuals to make such small holes, that 
when the roots are placed in them, they can- 
not be properly extended ; on the contrary 
they are frequently obliged to be unnaturally 
twisted and cramped, in order to get them 
in. The roots of trees are naturally inclined 
to proceed in a straight direction outwards, 
therefore it is always proper to let them be 
placed as much as possible in such position. 
The roots of those trees that have previously 
grown in pots, will particularly require this 
attention. But it is a practice with me not 
only to make holes so large as to admit of 
the roots being fully extended, but twelve or 
eighteen inches more than is required for that 
purpose. 

My reason for having the holes so much 
wider is, that when a hole is made only just 
as far as the roots extend, they upon push- 
ing forth strike immediately into the soil that 
has not been so lately lightened up as that 
wherein the tree is planted, and which will 
consequently settle more than the other ; and 
when the roots begin to establish themselves 
in the other part of the border, the ends of 
them are unnaturally forced up, and out of 
their proper direction, this is more particular- 
ly the case with those trees that are planted 
late in the winter or in spring. But if the trees 
are planted in November or December, they 



PLANTING. 



31 



will not be thus liable to injury, because the 
roots will not begin to spread until spring, 
when the soil in which the tree is planted will 
generally have settled equal to the other part 
of the border. But to the trees planted as 
early as the end of September, or as late as 
the end of March, which generally will push 
roots soon after they are planted; the inju- 
rious effects stated will be the result. 

Great care must be taken that the trees 
are not planted too deep in the soil, as it is 
always injurious to them. I advise that the 
roots of fruit trees against a wall, be not 
planted more than six inches deep in such a 
soil as directed by me for borders. Let it 
be observed, that where the soil is not as 
directed by me, plant nearer the surface than 
six inches in wet heavy soils, and deeper in 
those that are lighter. When trees are thus 
planted, the roots will find their way down 
into the border, or along the upper part of 
it in search of necessary food, when on the 
contrary, if placed too deep, they cannot 
soon find their way to the surface, unless in 
a border whose direction is considerably slo- 
ping, which form should always be avoided. 
( See formation of fruit tree borders ) But al- 
though the roots of those trees that are 
planted too deep may after some length of 
time reach the upper part of the border, yet 
they will be along while without having en- 
joyed the benefits from sun, rain, &c. which 



32 



PLANTING. 



they would have done had they been pro- 
perly planted. Neither will they have made 
such progress, or have been so fruitful, nor 
the fruit of so good a flavour; but by being 
planted at the depth directed, the trees will 
derive every advantage from sun, air, and 
rain. 

Great care will be required in digging the 
border for the cultivation of any esculent or 
vegetable that the roots are not damaged, for 
when they are, considerable injury is done 
to the tree, which will frequently evidence 
itself afterwards in the upper part of it by 
canker, &c. ; also by the production of suckers 
from the roots, which generally are caused by 
wounds inflicted by the spade in digging the 
borders, for the sap frequently forms a cal- 
losity at the wound, and the production of 
suckers is the consequence. 

Let the hole be made its proper extent, 
and about nine inches depth of soil be thrown 
out; upon the soil inside the hole, spread 
about three inches thick of well rotted cow 
dung, this must be well incorporated with 
soil so as to raise it to within about two 
inches of the level of the border, taking care 
that the surface of the soil inside the hole 
has the same inclination with the border. 

The root of the tree having been previ- 
ously pruned and prepared as directed, let it 
be placed upon the soil so levelled, the budded 
or grafted part to face the border, and the 



PLANTING. 



33 



bole to be about six inches from the wall, 
letting the head incline towards it; spread 
the roots regularly in the hole like a fan. 
Any distorted ones must now be regulated, 
and if the plant has previously grown in a 
pot or tub, the roots must be altered from 
the manner in which they have been forced 
to grow, to a proper direction. For want 
of this attention at the time of planting, to 
trees that have been turned out of pots or 
tubs, I have observed some at ten years af- 
terwards that have made no more progress 
than they would have done in two years, 
had they been properly planted. 

Do not let any roots point towards the 
wall, for when they run in that direction, 
on reaching the wall, they are obliged to 
turn on one side, and by forming an angle 
against it, they are generally injured, parti- 
cularly so in stone fruit trees. For gum 
oozes out at such places, which detains mois- 
ture, and the tree frequently begins to canker 
there. 

When the roots are properly spread, let 
about three inches thick of the soil that has 
been thrown out of the hole (and previously 
broken fine) be gently put upon them, upon 
this lay one inch thick of well rotted cow 
dung, and lastly two inches more of soil. 
When this is done let it be gently pressed 
down by the foot, always beginning at the 
extremity of the roots, so that the ends of 

F 



34 



PLANTING. 



them may thereby be kept in their pro- 
per position. Then let the soil be levelled 
and raised so high, that there be a mound of 
earth about three inches higher than the 
border, to allow for settling. Always have 
the edge of the mound a little higher than 
the other part of it, so that it will hold the 
water which will be applied, then let the 
tree be fastened to the wall. It is greatly to 
the advantage of newly planted trees to have 
them mulched, (See the directions in the Chap- 
ter on Mulching) this prevents the water 
when poured on the ground from running 
away, and occasions it to sink just where it 
is desired. It also prevents the water from 
washing away the soil, and protects the roots 
from drought and frost, as well as the earth 
from cracking. After this is done, let the 
tree have about three gallons of water poured 
over the roots, which assists the earth to settle 
close about them, and is a far better practice 
than that of shaking the tree at the time of 
planting, which is so generally done in order 
to get the soil to settle properly amongst the 
roots. The bad effect of such a practice is, 
that in raising up the tree, the roots are 
drawn forward, and the soil then being light 
about them, immediately closes up those 
spaces from which the ends of the roots were 
drawn, and when the tree is pressed down 
again, the tender roots cannot force them- 
selves forward into the spaces they previ- 



PLANTING. 



35 



ously occupied, and are thus bent backward ; 
and in this way they remain, and very fre- 
quently the ends of the fibres afterwards 
point straight down and grow in that man- 
ner, but when water is applied the desired 
end is obtained, equally as well as by shaking, 
and thus the damage described is avoided. 
The watering over the roots at this time also 
affords a portion of nourishment to the tree, 
which is very essential ; because it has been 
deprived of a part of its natural support by 
removal. (See watering the tops and roots of 
fruit trees,) 

If after the tree is planted there happens 
to be dry weather, the soil must be kept in 
a moist state. It will therefore be advise- 
able occasionally to remove a little of the 
mulch, and if the earth under is found to be 
dry, it must then have some more water. 
The quantity must be regulated according 
to the state of the soil, taking care that it is 
not kept too wet, for if the roots are kept in a 
very wet state by frequent waterings, instead 
of being an advantage to the trees, it rots the 
tender fibres. Unless therefore the soil be- 
comes very dry, they do not require water at 
the roots after the first time, until they have 
begun to push, which will evidence itself by 
correspondent shoots at the top. It will be 
easily discovered when a tree is in too wet a 
state or in too dry a one. For when too wet, 
(if there be foliage) it will turn yellow, and 



36 



PLANTING, 



the bark will shrivel; and if too dry, the 
foliage will droop, and if no remedy be 
applied will fall away, and the bark also 
shrivel as in the other case. It is however 
better to keep a tree too dry, rather than too 
wet, particularly before it has pushed roots. 
It is very rare if the trees are planted in 
autumn, that they will require more than 
once watering at the roots, but they will 
probably want water applying to the tops 
several times. (See Chapter on watering the 
tops of fruit trees.) But in spring they require 
it more as the season advances, and circum- 
stances occur. 

As the roots of the tree extend themselves 
in the border, great care must be taken that 
they are not injured by digging. The bor- 
der ought not to be dug deeper than five 
inches as far as the roots extend; this will be 
deep enough for the cultivation of those 
plants and vegetables which may be allowed 
to grow there, such as Onions, Lettuces, 
Endive, and any thing else of this kind. 

The directions laid down as proper to be 
practised upon wall trees, will also apply 
equally as w r ell to espaliers, with a few 
exceptions which I shall here notice. 

The general depth of soil proper for a 
garden will do for espaliers, and if of a wet 
bottom it should be w r ell drained. In the 
planting of the tree, let the soil be highest 
in the middle of the hole, so that the roots 



PLANTING. 



37 



may incline towards their ends, and be a 
little deeper than Avail trees. This is ne- 
cessary that they may not be injured by 
digging the soil for the cultivation of the 
annual crops of vegetables, as the quarters of 
a kitchen garden round which espaliers are 
commonly planted, require to be stirred to 
a greater depth than the borders. But let 
all possible attention be paid that the roots 
are not damaged thereby. The roots of 
espaliers must be allowed to extend them- 
selves on every side, and care should be 
taken that when espaliers are planted near 
borders, nothing tall or bushy is suffered to 
overshadow them. 



38 



CHAPTER VI. 

On the training of fruit trees. 

First, of those that generally bear fruit 
upon spurs. In this class may be reckoned 
Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, and Mul- 
berries. Various are the opinions concerning 
the most successful method of training fruit 
trees, and no one mode will apply with 
equal success to trees even of the same kind 
in every situation, this must therefore be 
varied according to the free growth of the 
tree or otherwise, as may appear necessary. 
After having seen and tried many methods 
for a long time, I find none to answer so 
well for the trees, as that which I here re- 
commend. 

In training the sorts of fruit trees before 
described, it is a very general practice (and 
has been strongly recommended by some 
writers on fruit trees) to train them accord- 
ing to the fan method. How great the suc- 
cess may be that attends the efforts of those 
who have so publicly and forcibly recom- 
mended it, I have not in all cases had the 
opportunity of witnessing, but~ in some I 
have had ample demonstration to prove its 
inadequency, and although 1 have never 



TRAINING. 



39 



seen such effects produced by it as to com- 
mand my full approbation, yet there may 
have been instances which I have not seen 
where it may have succeeded ; but I believe 
the trees cannot have been planted in such 
a soil and climate, as that to which I have 
been accustomed. The sorts of trees now 
under observation have a natural tendency 
to become luxuriant, and the training of 
them in the fan method encourages it; be- 
cause the natural direction of the sap is to 
run up wards, and the more erect the branches 
are, the more is luxuriency encouraged, con- 
sequently the more unfruitful the trees. It 
is very evident that to train those trees in 
the fan way, whose habit is to produce 
already too much wood, will tend to the 
production of more, and that will be more 
luxuriant. In order therefore to bring such 
trees to a prolific condition, it is necessary 
that some means be employed with that 
express view. This may in most cases be 
effected by training them in an horizontal 
direction, for when the branches are in this 
position it checks the too free motion of the 
sap, and renders the tree productive of fruit; 
because the sap cannot proceed so quick in 
the branches, as when they are trained more 
erect, and thus more time is afforded for the 
application of the juices in the spurs and 
buds, which are essential to fruitfulness. 
Although trees trained in this manner 



40 



TRAINING. 



will generally be productive, yet if one should 
be so luxuriant that it will not bear freely, 
let the branches be trained so that they re- 
gularly incline towards the ground, and the 
more luxuriant the tree is the greater must 
be their inclination. This will not only 
make such trees fruitful, but the fruit will also 
be finer; for as all the branches are trained 
in a pendulous position, the sap is regularly 
distributed and properly employed in the ma- 
turing of the fruit and fruit buds, whereas if 
only a part of the branches were trained ho- 
rizontally, and the remainder more erect, 
which is the case in fan training; the sap 
would flow more freely in such vertical 
branches, and the effect would be in that 
part the production of luxuriant unproduc- 
tive wood. And as the principal part of the 
sap would be expended where it had the 
least obstruction, consequently the other part 
of the branches would be weakly and the 
fruit small. This I have fully proved both 
in trees trained the fan way, and also in 
some that were trained as espaliers, and 
which in addition to the branches trained, I 
allowed to produce heads as standards. It 
evidently appeared that one part of the tree 
opposed the other, and this effect continued 
until the upper part of it was furnished with 
such a supply of branches, as were propor- 
tionable to the quantity of food received; 
then the upper part of it became productive, 



TRAINING. 



41 



and the other was weakly and unproductive. 
From these observations it will appear very 
evident, that to train such trees in the fan 
method is acting in opposition to what is 
desired, (viz. to bring the tree to a fruitful 
condition as soon as possible) and thus a 
much greater length of time is occupied in 
effecting this, than would have been the case 
had the tree been properly trained from the 
time of planting. This is particularly the 
case with Pear trees, some of this kind I 
have seen that have covered a space of 
twenty-four square yards of walling, before 
they became productive. But as some of the 
roots had then probably entered into the 
under stratum, and the tree had in so great 
a length of time considerably exhausted 
the fertility of the border, a proportional 
decrease in the supply of nutriment, brought 
the tree to a less luxuriant but more fruitful 
condition. But when again it became fruit- 
ful, a proportionate increase of support was 
required, but this could not be given from 
the border without a renewal, or frequent 
supplies of manure water, and if this were 
not given, the tree would bcome gradually 
weaker, and in a few years be as unproduc- 
tive as before. Others I have observed that 
had been planted a similar time, and then 
became productive, which were able only to 
produce a crop of fruit every other year, and 
in some instances every third year, the weak- 



42 



TRAINING. 



ness of the tree being so great that it was 
not able to support a crop every season; but 
by having one year, or sometimes two years 
rest, it regained its strength so as to be pro- 
ductive in the order described. This unpro- 
ductive state would be continued until the 
border was renewed, or food otherwise sup- 
plied. The bad effects stated were entirely 
the result of a wrong system in training the 
tree, and thus the most productive age of the 
tree, and also the fertility of the border, had 
in a great measure been lost. For if they 
had been trained in the horizontal manner 
from the first forming of the tree, they would 
soon have become productive, and when this 
object is once attained, it is very easy to 
keep it. 

As the horizontal mode of training is that 
which I prefer wherein to train such kinds 
of trees treated of, for the reasons assigned; 
I shall give particular instructions for the 
proper management, under the treatment of 
each separate kind of fruit. When trees of 
those kinds are not very vigorous, the fan 
method of training may, if desired, be adopt- 
ed successfully. On the other hand when a 
tree that has been trained in the horizontal 
plan becomes weakly, I find it of great ad- 
vantage to let the branches have a little ele- 
vation towards the end, for a year or two. 

When this practice is adopted, it generally 
is attended with success in giving strength 



TRAINING. 



43 



to the tree. After it has acquired the vigour 
I wish for, I bring the branches to their 
usual horizontal direction. If they have 
been elevated a great deal, I only bring them 
down the first season, half way ; and the re- 
mainder the season following. When this 
removal of branches from one direction to 
another is required, I always have it done 
very early in the autumn, as they will at 
that season more readily comply with it, 
than if deferred till near the winter; they 
will also bear it equally as well in spring 
when the sap is in motion ; but the buds are 
then very brittle, and are in greater danger 
of being rubbed off, which makes it decidedly 
more advantageous to perform this process 
in autumn. Although I find this method of 
training peculiarly suited to the kinds of fruit 
trees enumerated, I do not deem it necessary 
to be practised upon the Peach, Nectarine, 
or Apricot, with one exception, that is the 
Moor Park Apricot; to which I have some- 
times found it requisite to apply an horizontal 
training. All the other kinds of Apricots if 
planted in a suitable soil, will do the best 
when trained half fan, and half horizontally. 
In this case I let the branches rise to about 
half their length, which applies to fan train- 
ing, and the remaining part of the branch in 
an horizontal direction; a few branches at 
the top of the tree must be trained wholly 
horizontal, so as to fill up every part of the 



TRAINING. 



Avail. Peach and Nectarine trees are not of 
so luxuriant a habit as the other kinds of 
fruit trees, and of the methods of training 
them, none is equal to the fan way; by this 
I mean, that the strong arms of the tree 
should resemble in form the ribs of a fan 
when expanded. Some persons have strongly 
recommended other modes of training as pre- 
ferable to this for Peaches and Nectarines, I 
have tried them, but have not found them 
to possess such merits as to make them wor- 
thy of being recommended. Under other 
modes of planting or pruning from that which 
I practice, they may have their advantages; 
but from near forty years experience of the 
fan shape, I can strongly recommend it, and 
if properly attended to from the first plant- 
ing and training, it will very rarely happen 
that there will be a vacant part upon the 
wall, however far the tree may extend ; 
except it be caused by accident, and every 
part of it will be supplied with fruit bearing 
wood. 

When a Peach or Nectarine tree is weakly, 
I let all the branches, particularly the lower 
ones, have considerably more elevation for 
a year or two, and remove them to their 
former direction when the tree has regained 
its strength. Also when trees are newly 
planted I allow all the branches to have a 
good degree of elevation for two or three 
years, regulating this according to the vigour 



TRAINING. 



45 



or weakness of the plant. If in any part of 
the tree a branch be weakly, let such be 
immediately elevated as much as possibly 
can be done. 

Whatever method is adopted in training 
the trees, care should be taken to keep the 
two sides as nearly equal as possible; this 
may easily be done whether they are trained 
in the fan or horizontal method. When an 
accident occurs so that a part of one side is 
lost, such vacant part must be supplied as 
soon as possible. In the fan training this 
may readily be done, but cannot in the ho- 
rizontal, but a new shoot or more (so that 
the vacancy be fitted up) must be trained in, 
from the main stem of the tree if there is an 
opportunity, if not, a lateral shoot or more 
must be trained from the branches. If there 
be buds upon the main stem at such places 
as shoots are wished for, they may frequently 
be caused to push by making an incision 
over the bud in the form of an inverted v 
thus a. This will easily be effected when a 
part of the tree has been taken away, as the 
sap operates more strongly in those parts to 
the production of new shoots, wherein to 
spend itself. If there should not be a bud 
in such a situation as desired from which to 
expect a shoot, one may be inserted, and in 
this manner a supply may be obtained. 

If in the spring or early part of summer a 
strong vigorous tree is deprived of its fruit 



46 



TRAINING. 



by frost or any other injurious cause, a 
greater quantity of young shoots must be 
retained in every part of the tree during 
that year, and such overplus of wood be 
pruned away at the winter pruning of the 
trees. If a tree thus deprived of its fruit be 
not very strong, only the regular portion of 
young wood must be allowed to remain upon 
it. 

When a shoot or branch is injured by 
blight, and there is reason to fear it cannot 
be recovered, let it be immediately taken 
away, as the effects of blight will without 
this caution very frequently spread to other 
parts of the tree. The taking away of the 
branch makes room for a supply of young 
wood, which will be stronger by an early 
removal of the damaged part. 

For espalier trees no method of training 
whatever is equal to the horizontal, the small 
compass in which the trees are obliged to be 
kept requires such a direction for the branches, 
in order to make them fructiferous. And 
were very high trellisses formed, so as to 
admit of the trees being trained in the fan 
method, such would be very objectionable 
by reason of the shade they would cause, 
and the trees would also be deprived of the 
benefit of a warmer temperature, which 
those less elevated receive, by the effects of 
which fruitfulness is considerably promoted, 
Attention to this latter circumstance is par- 



TRAINING. 



47 



ticularly required to some kinds of fruit trees 
when trained as espaliers, for even in some 
seasons trees of the same kind that are 
trained against a wall, with all the superior 
advantages of reflection, &c. are with great 
difficulty brought to a fruitful state. 



48 



CHAPTER VII. 

On the most proper season for pruning fruit trees. 

The general pruning of fruit trees, is 
indifferently performed by many persons at 
any time from autumn to spring, and it may 
be done so without any very great injur y to 
them, providing that mild weather is chosen 
for the purpose, but when there are ad- 
vantages to be derived by the seasonable 
application of any means to the trees, it is 
certainly advisable to avail ourselves of them. 
With this view I always prune the fruit trees 
under my care as soon as I possibly can 
commence the business, that is to say, as 
soon as ever the leaves begin to fall, and in 
some cases, when the wood is well ripened, 
before this happens; for when the wood is 
properly ripened, the leaves will come off 
by the least touch, and pruning may then 
be safely performed without causing any 
injury to the buds. But were they pruned 
before the wood was properly matured, the 
forcing off the leaves would then be injurious 
to the buds, and would considerably retard 
their advance to a due state of perfection. 
The pruning of the trees at so early a season 
as recommended, affords great assistance to 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



49 



the fruit buds, in bringing them to a proper 
degree of maturity; for they will be much 
stronger and bolder, than if it had been de- 
ferred until spring. Although it is highly 
advantageous to prune trees (when wood is 
properly ripened) so early, yet when the 
wood is green and the buds are not arrived 
at a mature state, it is requisite in such in- 
stances to defer pruning until spring, taking 
care however that it is performed before the 
moving of the sap. The necessity of this 
arises from the circumstance, that as the 
wood is not ripened in autumn, the sap is 
then in an active state, and will continue 
so until the frost, &c. causes it to become 
stagnant or sedate, and if the shoots were 
shortened whilst the sap was in motion, the 
buds would be considerably injured, and the 
tree weakened. Such unripe shoots are also 
more liable to suffer by the severity of winter, 
and when the pruning is deferred until spring, 
all such parts as may have been affected by 
the weather, can be removed to the extent to 
which the damage has been sustained. As the 
pruning of such unripe wood in the autumn 
would be injurious, so it frequently is when 
it is done during winter, and the more so, 
according to the severity of it. Because 
whenever a cut is made on such green wood, 
the frost generally affects it, as the sap is not 
so dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able 
to resist its intenseness. For the same reason 



H 



50 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



I alwaj^s leave the pruning of Fig and Mul- 
berry trees until spring. 

The superiority of spring pruning to that 
of autumn, is by the advocates of the former 
grounded upon this, i. e. that it may more 
certainly be discovered where a shoot will 
be produced for a lead the ensuing summer; 
and thus far it is correct, but if attention be 
paid to the obtaining wood to a proper state 
of maturity, and in the pruning of each kind 
agreeably to the instructions contained in 
this work, this object may always be secured 
unless some accident prevent it, and gene- 
rally with more certainty than by a spring 
pruning. For at that advanced season, the 
buds are very brittle, and frequently many 
are rubbed off or bruised in the operation. 
I have noticed some persons prune Peach 
and Nectarine trees that were in a bearing 
condition, as late as April, when the bloom 
buds were just bursting; the effects that 
followed such a system were in numerous in- 
stances very evident, for soon after the blos- 
soms had expanded, many of those situated 
nearest to the end of the shoots withered and 
dropped off, and the tree was also consider- 
ably weakened. Such a method of checking 
luxuriancy is used by many persons, but I 
never practice it, adopting other means for 
the attainment of that object. (See treatment 
of vigorous trees.) Young trees I uniformly 
prune at spring for the first two years after 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



51 



being planted, being careful that it is per- 
formed (as already observed) before the rising 
of the sap. 

Where there is an extensive range of wall 
trees it necessarily requires a considerable 
time to prune them, the method I pursue is, 
first to prune Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot 
trees, then any of the other kinds of fruit 
trees upon a south aspect, the next those 
upon the east and west aspects, and lastly 
those upon the north aspect. Particular di- 
rections for pruning each sort, are set down 
in the instructions for the treatment of the 
kind. 

It will be proper in this place to caution 
pruners of wall trees against an error which 
is practised by many, to their discredit, to a 
waste of walling, and to the injury of the 
trees ; ( this particularly applies to Peach and 
Nectarine trees.) 

The error I mean is, that by unskilful 
pruning, a tree becomes almost destitute 
of young bearing wood near to the centre 
or origin of the main branches, this is 
very frequently to be seen in the kinds 
of trees described, after they have been 
planted for twelve or fourteen years, and 
when they ought to be in their greatest per- 
fection. Trees that have been planted and 
trained for such a length of time, and have 
had all the advantages arising from a suitable 
soil, I have observed to have branches en- 



52 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



tirely destitute of fruit bearing wood, for 
three or four feet from the bole of the tree. 
This state of the trees will frequently be 
found to arise, from adopting a system re- 
commended and practised by some persons, 
viz. of leaving all the shoots entirely un- 
shortened in winter. 

I have seen and tried this method in many 
instances and for many years, and I have 
always found it the same, and in the appli- 
cation of all other means I could use to 
co-operate with such a system, in order to 
render it successful, I uniformly failed, and 
could not keep a tree (after it had been so 
treated for twelve or fourteen years) pro- 
perly supplied with bearing wood down to 
the bole. Such a tree I always found co- 
vered its space and exhausted the border 
much sooner, than if treated otherwise, it 
had also supported a greater quantity of lux- 
uriant unproductive wood, as well as borne 
a much less quantity of fruit; the wood was 
at the same time long and naked, because 
the point bud generally pushed the first. 
And by the shoot of last year wood being: left 
its whole length, it frequently happens that 
at the lower part of the shoot there are no 
new ones produced, by reason of the point 
shoot pushing first, and the sap finding means 
of expending itself there, or ima few more 
shoots near to the upper part of the last year 
wood, and thus naked branches are encou- 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



53 



raged. It is this that must be guarded against 
and even must always endeavour to retain 
a new shoot as near as possible to the origin 
of the last year wood. The pruning of the 
shoots in winter as directed in its proper place 
very much encourages this. It must be ad- 
mitted that the roots of a tree spread more 
and increase every year, consequently, the 
food received the ensuing summer by means 
of such increase, will require an additional 
extent of branches in order to be expended 
in such a way that the tree is not thereby 
thrown into a luxuriant condition; but such 
injury is avoided by allowing the tree a 
greater extent of wood every year, until it 
has covered its allotted space, consequently 
there is a proportionate increase of fruit to 
support, which moderates and regulates 
the tree in a proper way, so as to keep it in 
a fruitful state. When the tree has filled its 
allotted space, if it should then be inclined to 
shoot too vigorously, a greater quantity of 
fruit must be allowed, so that the extra por- 
tion of sap may be therein expended, but 
this w r ill very rarely be the case, for by the 
time that the tree has extended so far, its 
tendency to luxuriancy is generally checked. 

By attending to the proper pruning of the 
trees in winter, every advantage that is 
desired is promoted, and by a judicious 
management in other respects, wood may 
not only be obtained but preserved in every 



54 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



part of the tree, and so that it will bear fruit 
down to the very bole, which will evidently 
be greatly to the credit of the gardener, the 
benefit of the proprietor, and will be equally 
conducive to the beauty and welfare of the 
tree. 

In training and pruning young trees, par- 
ticular attention is required to lay a good 
foundation for a supply in future years, for 
when this is neglected, and they are become 
naked as before described, it is with great 
difficulty that a supply can be recovered in 
Peach or Nectarine trees ; in any of the other 
kinds it is more readily done. In shortening 
a branch, always take care to cut in a direc- 
tion a little sloping, and so that the slope 
may be parallel in a contrary way to the 
nearest bud left. It is requisite to have a 
very sharp knife, that the cut may not be 
ragged, but clean, and in the operation, must 
be careful that the knife does not slip, so that 
any other branch may be cut or damaged. 
The proper distance of arranging the branches 
from each other, is laid down in the particular 
treatment of each sort. 

The observations now offered, principally 
apply to the winter pruning; but a regula- 
tion of the trees in summer is also necessary, 
so that no greater quantity of new shoots are 
retained, than is required; (see the particular 
directions for the performing of this in the treat- 
ment of each respective sort) although the di- 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



55 



rections for regulating the wood both in 
summer and winter be attended to, yet it 
will frequently be observed that in some 
parts of the tree luxuriant shoots will be 
produced, if wood be wanted they may be 
retained where requisite, but if not, they 
must be taken away as soon as possible*. 

It is occasionally found expedient to cut 
away a large branch or more from a tree, 
this is found necessary when room on the 
wall is required, or to make space for a sup- 
ply of young wood. When this practice is 
performed great attention is required lest 
more harm should be done than good. Peach, 
Nectarine, and Apricot trees, are more sus- 
ceptible of injury from this operation than 
any of the other kinds of fruit trees ; and a 
large limb ought not to be cut away unless 
a similar proportion be taken from the root, 
or the tree be transplanted. (See treatment 
of Teach trees.) In any of the other sorts of 
fruit trees such as Apples, Pears, Plums, &c. 
a branch or more may be safely removed. 
If there be a good lateral shoot to cut down 
to, always take care to do so ; this is more 
necessary in stone fruit trees than in the other 
kinds which will generally produce a new 
shoot although nothing but a stump is left. 
If in the stone fruit trees there be not a la- 
teral shoot to cut to, it is far better to cut 



* See Chapter on Peach and Nectarine trees. 



56 



SEASON FOR PRUNING. 



such a branch entirely away than to leave a 
bare stump, which almost always dies after- 
wards. But whenever I determine that it 
will be advantageous in a year or two to re- 
move a part of the tree, I always take care 
to leave a good succession before I carry into 
effect, the removal of the part which I do not 
wish any longer to retain. 



57 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The necessity and advantages of Spurring those kinds of fruit 
trees which are directed in this work to be treated in that 
manner. 

In the following observations, there is 
laid down the method which I pursue with 
the different sorts of fruit trees that bear 
upon spurs; with the exception of those 
persons to whom I have imparted the method 
I practice, and who have adopted it through 
a conviction of its advantages, I never saw 
it practised by any but myself A part of 
the plan is stated in a paper communicated 
to the Horticultural Society of London, in 
January 1818, Vol. 3d, page 41, how far 
the observations there stated have influenced 
individuals to adopt it, I can form no idea of, 
but I have reason to believe that it has been 
successfully practised by some. The process 
which was treated of in part there, is here 
more fully explained, and if the directions 
in pruning the tree agreeably to this system 
be attended to, success is the certain result, 
unless casualties such as frost and insects, 
counteract the advantages which otherwise 
would have been realized. 

It is essential to those who have the ma- 

I 



58 



SPURRING, 



nagement of fruit trees, to look forward to 
what is to take place hereafter; not only to 
consider the present welfare of them, but 
what may be necessary in years to come. 
It will be noticed in the particular treatment 
of this class of fruit trees, that I cut away 
partially and afterwards wholly the spurs 
at a very early period after they are produ- 
ced, my reason for doing so I shall here 
explain. Around the base of each spur, 
there are generally several embryos situated 
under the bark, and when the old spur is 
allowed to grow without being shortened, or 
entirely cut down, such embryos generally 
remain in that condition ; but if the spur be 
cut down it will almost certainly cause one 
or more of these to push forth, and in some 
instances this will be the case even by par- 
tially shortening an old spur. The advantage 
therefore of cutting away the spur at an 
early age is, that such embryos will more 
certainly push, than if the pruning be de- 
ferred to a much later period; for the younger 
the wood is of the spur cut away, the 
more certain is the new spur to be pro- 
duced. For when the bark gets old it is 
tougher, and the embryo cannot force its 
way through it so readily as it can when it 
is younger. Besides it will frequently be 
found when the spurs have been allowed to 
grow for many years and have not been cut 
away, that some of the embryos will have 



SPURRING. 



59 



previously pushed, but from the old spurs 
having been allowed to remain, they had not 
received a due degree of support, and for 
want of it, and a proper admission of sun 
and air had perished. I have frequently 
observed this to be the case, and when such 
old spurs have been removed, there has 
been afterwards at such places, vacancies 
which always ought to be avoided as they 
look unsightly, and more particularly so 
when the spurs are far distant from each other. 
Whenever one of the embryos prematurely 
breaks, (that is, before the old spur is cut 
down) always be careful to preserve it, by 
immediately taking away a part of the old 
spur in order to give it strength, and admit 
a suitable portion of sun and air to it. 
Another advantage is derived by taking 
away the spur at an early state, viz. that 
the wound caused by cutting off the spur, 
is not so large as otherwise it would be, and 
it is also much sooner healed, and becomes 
nearly even with the branch from which the 
spur was removed; and thus those large 
protuberances which are so very generally 
to be seen, are avoided, and the beauty, 
regularity, and fruitfulness of the tree is 
increased. 

In some kinds of fruit trees (which is no- 
ticed in the Chapter on the treatment of 
each) when the spur is cut down at an early 
period, the young spur which is produced is. 



60 



SPURRING. 



almost certain to form a fruit spur the first 
year, and to be productive the second ; but 
it very generally happens that when the 
spur which has been cut down was old, 
that the new spur will for two years produce 
nothing but wood. The cause of this seems 
to be, that when a spur is allowed to get 
large, the removal of it gives a check to 
such part, and when the embryo pushes 
forth a great portion of the sap is expended 
in the production of wood, instead of fruit 
buds, which would not have been the case 
had the pruning taken place at the proper 
time, and thus a year or more would have 
been gained in the production of fruit. 

The advantages to be derived from having 
the spurs thus regularly shortened, are very 
considerable. The health of the trees is 
improved by it, and it renders them more 
productive, and the fruit will be a greal deal 
finer, and of a much better flavour; this will 
soon be apparent when the practice is adopt- 
ed. All these good effects are promoted, by 
the fruitful part of the tree being brought 
into close contact with the wall. When 
the spurs are allowed to extend far from the 
wall, they will sometimes have an abundance 
of bloom upon them, but it generally drops 
off, and a very small portion of fruit sets. 
The reason is very obvious, the 'spurs being 
so long and close together, the sun and air 
(which are very essential to the tree at this 



SPURRING. 



61 



critical period) cannot have such access 
among them, as is requisite, in order to pro- 
mote their fertility, and lichen or moss is 
thereby encouraged, which obstructs the 
pores of the wood, and prevents the tree from 
flourishing; and on these accounts for want 
of due support the bloom or young 1 fruit drops 
off. 

Another accident which frequently hap- 
pens from the spurs being long is, that it 
often occurs in spring that there are two or 
three weeks of fine warm weather, which 
pushes on vegetation and causes the trees to 
bloom, this is sometimes succeeded by very 
cold weather for several days, which again 
gives a sudden check to vegetation, and the 
blossom being deprived of a considerable 
degree of support (from the reasons already 
assigned) is not able to withstand the effects 
of such sudden changes. Also by the spurs 
extending so far from the wall, they are 
more exposed to the frost and cold winds 
than if they were kept properly pruned as 
directed by me, and when the spurs are kept 
short they are much less affected by any 
change of the weather than what long ones 
are. Again, the trees from having the spurs 
long, are more liable to be attacked by 
insects, which are with more difficulty de- 
stroyed, as the composition directed to be 
used to fruit trees in the winter season in 



62 



SPURRING. 



order to destroy their larvae, and so prevent 
their ravages in summer, cannot well be 
applied. The composition here alluded to, 
materially contributes to the health and 
fruitfulness of the trees, but its effects must 
not be expected to be so great in those with 
long spurs, as upon those properly pruned; 
because it has to contend with the disadvan- 
tages just now hinted at. 

By reducing the spurs in the gradual man- 
ner as directed in this work, there will always 
be reserved a proper supply in every part of 
the tree, and these in a productive state; 
but were too great a portion of them remo- 
ved at once, it would oppose the fruitfulness 
of the tree, because there would be an over- 
flow of sap, which would be expended in 
the producing and supporting barren wood, 
instead of supporting and encouraging fruit- 
ful spurs, and thus one part of the tree would 
oppose the other, which ought always to be 
avoided. But by removing them in the 
order described it is kept in a regular state, 
by supporting a proportionate quantity of 
fruit and fruitful spurs. If a less quantity 
was taken away at once than what is laid 
down, for a healthy fruitful tree, those re- 
maining would in many instances be too 
close together, and would thereby be liable 
to the defects and injurious consequences 
which originate and are caused by it. But 



SPURRING. 



63 



by the practise of the method recommended 
every possible benefit is afforded to the tree 
and fruit, which can be derived from such 
sources. 

It will be proper to remark here, that after 
an old spur is cut down, the embryo will not 
always push the first season, perhaps not 
until the second, and in some cases not at 
all. But besides those embryos situated 
near the base of the spur cut down, there 
will very frequently arise new spurs along 
the branch in the intermediate spaces be- 
tween the old ones, such must be retained 
and encouraged. 

In pursuing the method of pruning in, 
and cutting down the spurs in the order and 
regularity described, every desired advantage 
will be obtained, which will fully com- 
pensate for the attention bestowed. But 
where such a regular system is not practised, 
as near an approximation as possible must 
be pursued, so that the spurs are not allowed 
to bear too long a period, neither extend too 
far from the wall, before they are cut either 
wholly or partially down, in order to obtain 
a new succession. 

It will be observed in the particular treat- 
ment upon each kind, that there is a little 
difference in the time of removing spurs 
from espaliers and wall trees. The spurs 
of espaliers are allowed to grow a longer 



04 



SPURRING. 



period before they are cut clown, than those 
upon wall trees, because they will admit 
of it a great deal better, as there is a 
more free circulation of air to the espalier 
than the wall trees. But as they are only 
allowed to grow one or two years longer 
before they are cut away, no very material 
difference arises to the pushing of the embryo 
from the origin of the spur removed. 



65 



CHAPTER IX. 

The advantages and method of watering the roots of fruit trees. 

It has long been a practice with me to 
water the roots of the fruit trees under my 
care, at those seasons of the year I deem 
necessary. The great advantages resulting 
from a proper attention to this treatment, 
will soon be apparent in the health and 
fruitfulnes of the trees. The quantity of 
water to be applied at one time, is not only 
as much as will moisten the surface of the 
border, but as much as will sink down to 
at least eighteen inches, which will be found 
to be a real benefit to the tree. It must be 
observed that the frequency of watering and 
the quantity to be applied at one time, as 
recommended in this Chapter, is suitable 
for trees when planted in such a soil and 
border as directed. ( See formation of fruit tree 
borders.) But when the trees are planted in 
a soil and border materially different, the 
watering must be regulated accordingly. If 
the soil be stiff and wet, or upon a wet bot- 
tom, do not give more than one half of what 
I advise for proper borders; but if the soil be 
lighter, water more accordingly. Also when 
the seasons are wet, this watering must be 

K 



66 



WATERING ROOTS. 



omitted, providing the borders are moist to 
the bottom; if not, a good watering ought 
once or twice to be given so as to effect 
this object. 

The period of commencing this operation 
must be regulated agreeably to the following 
manner. If the weather has been wet pre- 
vious to the opening of the bloom in spring, 
I do not water the trees at the roots until I 
judge that the border is becoming dry, but 
if the season previous to the opening of the 
bloom has been dry, I give each tree ten 
or twelve gallons of water at the roots, 
just before the bloom expands. If I have a 
sufficiency of manure water I apply that, but 
otherwise soft pond water. If pond water 
cannot be conveniently had for the purpose, 
it must be water that has been exposed to 
the atmosphere for three or four days pre- 
vious to using. 

By the application of this at the time di- 
rected, I find that the fruit always sets a 
great deal better than if it were omitted; 
as it very materially contributes to the pro- 
duction of perfect stamina and pistillum, 
without which watering, in many cases they 
would be defective, particularly Pear trees ; 
also in dry seasons, generally the greater 
part of the bloom drops off, which is caused 
by the deficiency of support to strengthen 
it at the footstalk. This watering at the 
roots is more particularly required for wall 



WATERING ROOTS. 



67 



trees, as they have not the full advantages 
from rains and dews which standards have; 
but in very dry seasons it is indispensible 
for either wall or standard trees. If the 
weather continues dry during spring, but 
more particularly in summer, the watering 
of the roots should be regularly practised. 
Wall trees ought on no account to be neg- 
lected, thev ourfit to be watered once a fort- 
night, and if the weather be very droughty, 
once a week. Trees on the south aspect, 
require more watering than those against 
any other; but this must be regulated ac- 
cording to the state of the border. Those 
on the north will not require watering more 
than two or three times during spring and 
summer, because the sun does not operate so 
powerfully upon the border on that aspect 
as any of the others, consequently the soil 
is more moist, and too much wet would 
retard, rather than promote the fertility of 
the trees. 

In watering trees of the stone fruit, parti- 
cularly Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots, I 
omit it during such time as the fruit is under 
the operation of stoning, which when it is 
completed, I commence the watering again. 
My reason for omitting it at this time is, that 
if much water were then applied, the greater 
part of the fruit would fall off, because at that 
time there is a sufficiency of that kind of 
matter of which the stone is afterwards per- 



68 



WATERING ROOTS. 



fectly formed, and it is then hardening at the 
outer coat, and the deposition of much more 
sap in the stone should be prevented, for 
when water is given in any large quantity 
it produces so great a portion of sap, that the 
young wood cannot expend it, and thus too 
much of it forces itself into the stone, and by 
breaking the tender skin which forms the 
outer coat, it immediately turns black and 
rots, the fruit begins to shrivel, and after- 
wards drops off* the trees. But by withhold- 
ing water at the time directed, the fruit will 
always be found to stone much better. ( See 
this more particularly treated upon in the Chapter 
o?i Peach and Nectarine trees.) This watering 
I continue until the young shoots cease to 
grow, when it is desisted from. The appli- 
cation of manure water greatly promotes the 
growth of the trees, I prefer it to manure in 
its solid state, (particularly for Peaches and 
Nectarines) because it has the essence or 
juices of the vegetable substances dissolved 
in it; and as water is the vehicle to convey 
such juices to the roots, it is by watering as 
directed transmitted to them, and by them 
to the rest of the tree. It not only causes 
the tree to grow more vigorous, but the fruit 
will also be larger and of a richer flavour. 

When trees are very vigorous, I omit the 
watering, with the exception of the time of 
the bloom expanding, or when it is necessary 
to keep the tree from drought ; and at those 



WATERING HOOTS. 



69 



times use pond water instead of manure 
water. 

Newly planted trees I always water at the 
time of planting them, and without it is dry 
weather, I do not water again until they 
begin to push in spring. ( See the planting of 
fruit trees.) For the first year after being 
planted, I do not give more than two gallons 
at one time, and that only when the ground 
is dry. 

As the trees advance in growth during fu- 
ture years, I increase the quantity of water 
in proportion; because as the roots extend 
farther into the border, a greater space of 
ground will have to be moistened, in order 
properly to benefit the trees. For it is prin- 
cipally by the young roots and fibres, that 
food from the border is received up into the 
tree: this must be particularly attended to 
in full grown trees. The time of applying 
the water, must be a shady day, or the after 
part of a clear hot day. For when water is 
poured on the soil, and a day of hot sun im- 
mediately follows, the soil is liable to crack; 
but if the watering be attended to as directed, 
this will be avoided, because during the space 
of twelve or fourteen hours, the moisture will 
have diffused itself to a good depth in the 
border, and some will generally be exhaled 
during the night, and in the shape of dew 
applied to the leaves of the trees which is 
of great utility to them. 



70 



WATERING ROOTS. 



Previously to commencing the watering in 
spring, the ground should be loosened about 
two or three inches deep, to the extent it is 
intended to pour the water; this assists the 
water in sinking properly into the border. 
If the border be in cultivation by any escu- 
lent, &c. let the spaces between the rows be 
lightened up. When the soil of the border 
is very light, it will not require turning up 
so deep. 

This practice, in order to assist the water 
in sinking properly into the border, is very 
far preferable to what I have observed to be 
adopted by some persons, who make holes 
in various parts of the border hy means 
of a stake or iron crow; this method I con- 
sider does more harm than good, for I have 
seen the roots considerably damaged by it, 
some being split through the middle; the 
effects of which soon became apparent in the 
upper part of the tree, for I have observed 
trees of stone fruit to canker afterwards, which 
before this accident had no appearance of 
it. 

Espalier trees do not require so great at- 
tention in this particular as wall trees do, 
because their roots can be allowed to extend 
on every side. Beside the dews fall more 
fully upon them, and they derive more bene- 
fit from the free circulation of air; nor is the 
soil dried so soon as that of the borders, by 
the great reflection of heat from the walls. 



WATERING ROOTS 



71 



But espaliers, like standard trees, ought al- 
ways to be watered when the bloom expands, 
unless the ground be very moist, also once or 
twice more during the spring and summer, 
which will fully repay for the trouble. 



72 



CHAPTER X. 

On the advantages and method of watering the tops of fruit 
trees. 

The leaves of trees are very essential to 
their fertility, they attract from the atmos- 
phere, imbibe moisture, and perspire away 
or cast off any crude juices which the tree 
rejects, and otherwise assist it. They are so 
far necessary, that when a tree in a flourish- 
ing condition is divested of them, the loss is 
soon discovered in the check which it thereby 
receives. The removal of the leaves is also 
very injurious to those buds situated at their 
bases, as it prevents them from coming to a 
proper state of maturity, but the retaining 
of them very materially assists in getting 
them properly ripened. Food is also con- 
veyed to the support of the tree through the 
pores of the wood, particularly the young 
shoots, they being composed of a number of 
fine vessels. 

As it is very evident that the parts of the 
tree here treated of are very essential ones 
by which support is administered to it. Wa- 
tering the top contributes very much towards 
it, for the vegetable nutriment which is con- 
tained in the water, is by these vehicles con- 



WATERING TOPS. 



73 



veyed to it, and afterwards distributed to 
every part. 

Watering the tops of fruit trees immedi- 
ately after the blossom cast their petals is 
very condusive to the securing of fruit, for 
without watering at that time, when the 
weather is dry, not one quarter of the fruit 
which sets will stand, nor half so much as 
when the trees are watered as directed. 

The water suitable for this purpose must 
be pure soft water, if this cannot conveniently 
be had, and water from a well must be used, 
let it be exposed to the atmosphere for a few 
days previous to using it; also cast into it a 
few spades full of earth or quick lime. Soap 
suds are very beneficial when sprinkled upon 
the trees, being destructive to insects, for 
they do not like the strong scent which soap 
suds leave after being applied. Soap suds 
are also strong promoters of vegetation, the 
ingredients of which the soap is composed, 
appearing to be agreeable to the constitution 
of most trees. 

The method I pursue in applying the water 
is this : for the first year after young trees 
are planted, I sprinkle them over with soft 
water by means of a garden engine three or 
four times a week, doing it early in the 
morning before the sun is full upon them; 
I continue this as long as there is any reason 
to apprehend injury from frost, I then give 
it in the evening, just before the sun leaves 

L 



74 



WATERING TOPS. 



the trees, and I continue to give it at this 
time of the day until the trees cease growing 
for that year, when it is desisted from. 

In watering those trees that are in a bear- 
ing condition, I pursue the following method. 
If the weather be not wet, just before the 
bloom buds open, the tree must have a good 
washing with soap suds, (it is very service- 
able to have a cistern to receive them at the 
wash-house, that they may be preserved for 
use,) this washing of the trees must be per- 
formed in the early part of a day that is not 
frosty ; this softens the coats of the buds, and 
is also destructive to those insects which 
are then beginning to move about the tree*. 
The trees must not be watered again until 
the petals have fallen, as already described 
in this Chapter; for when they are washed 
during the time that the bloom is expanding 
and previous to the fruit being set, it washes 
away the farina from the stamina, and thus 
fecundation is prevented, and the florets will 
be barren, consequently there will be a less 
crop of fruit. This is very frequently the case 
when there happens heavy showers of rain at 
the blooming season, particularly in standard 
and espalier trees: I have seen trees that 
have been well supplied with strong healthy 
blossom, rendered nearly barren that season 



* Apply water three times, and soap suds once. 



WATERING TOPS 



75 



by a heavy shower of rain falling at that 
time. 

Immediately after the fruit is set, watering 
must be resumed, and be continued twice or 
three times a week until the fruit is beginning 
to stone, during which operation, the trees 
must not be watered more than half of what 
had been practised before, and very little 
water must be applied at each time. 

When the fruit begins to swell after stoning, 
water the trees once or twice every week un- 
til the fruit is three parts grown, when it 
must be given up. 

The time of watering them must be regu- 
lated in the following manner; whilst any 
danger is apprehended from frost, they must 
be washed in a morning before the sun acts 
freely upon the trees, but afterwards in the 
afternoon about an hour before the sun de- 
clines from them*. 

After the fruit is gathered, the trees may 
be occasionally washed over with soap suds, 
as it is always beneficial to them, and de- 
structive to insects. Whenever this is done 
in the winter season, let it be on a mild day, 
and also on the early part of it. In per- 
mitting the water to proceed out of the en- 
gine upon the trees during the time that 
the fruit is in an infant state, let the finger 



_ * When the fruit is ripening, as little water as possible ought to be 
given to the tops of the trees, because it makes the fruit insipid. 



76 



WATERING TOPS. 



be placed over the end of the pipe, so that it 
falls upon them like fine rain ; for when it is 
allowed to fall with too much force upon the 
young fruit, it will sometimes beat it off, or 
injure it. 

Espalier trees should be watered as fre- 
quently over the tops as is directed to be 
done to their roots. 

I have occasionally had recourse to sprinkle 
water over the tops of the trees early in the 
morning in spring after a frosty night, in 
order to counteract its effects upon the bloom 
or young fruit. (See protecting the bloom of 
fruit trees.) 

When there is not a sufficiency of soap 
suds from the wash-house for the purposes 
desired, a proper mixture may be made in 
the following manner. To twelve gallons 
of boiling water, add half a pound of soft 
soap and stir it up until the soap is well dis- 
solved in the water, which when cool is fit 
for use. If when the fruit is arrived at a 
mature state, there should be a necessity of 
applying a good washing to the trees in order 
to extirpate insects, (see red spider) on no 
account apply soap suds at that time, be^ 
cause it always gives the fruit a disagreeable 
flavour, and clean water will answer the pur-? 
pose equally as well. 



77 



CHAPTER XI. 

Nailing fruit trees. 

The securing of wall trees requires con- 
siderable attention, not only as it respects 
the beauty, but the health of them ; for when 
it is performed in a careless manner, the trees 
are liable to sustain injury. Various are the 
methods practised in accomplishing this part 
of our work; but I prefer the old method of 
securing them by nails and shreds, as being 
far superior to any other I have yet seen. 
For some of them completely destroy the 
beauty and regularity of the tree; but by the 
old method the tree can be brought to any 
desired form, and every shoot be trained in 
its proper place. One of the methods al- 
luded to is, to have a wood trellis which will 
completely cover the wall, to which the trees 
are fastened; if the trellis be fixed close to 
the wall, they are nailed to it; but if at a 
distance from it, they are tied by matting or 
otherwise. Both are objectionable, the for- 
mer because behind the trellis there is an 
harbour for insects, and the latter in addition 
to that, prevents the trees from coming in 
close contact with the wall, and thereby de- 
prives them of the benefit they would receive 



78 



NAILING. 



from the reflection of the sun. Both are alike 
objectionable, in addition to the reasons al- 
ready assigned, because they are expensive 
in the erection and keeping them in repair. 

When a wall is built of stone, and the 
joints are far apart, a trellis fixed close to 
it might assist the better regulating of the 
branches, it having a more ready means of 
securing them. But if a trellis is designed, 
one made of small wire stretched from the 
top to the bottom of the wall, with two or 
three cross pieces in order to keep the upright 
wires steady and in their proper places, is 
far preferable to a trellis made of wood; the 
wire must be painted, otherwise the rust 
formed upon it would be injurious to the 
trees. 

The sort of nails proper for use in pursuing 
the old method is, those made of wrought 
iron with square heads, and about one inch 
long; stronger nails than those are requisite 
for securing large branches. Some persons 
use cast iron nails, instead of wrought iron 
ones, with a view of saving expense; but 
they are generally dearer in the end, as 
they will not admit of being straightened or 
pointed like the other, and they are also 
very apt to break in the act of driving them 
into the wall, the shoots also are frequently 
injured by the slipping of the hammer. But 
whether the nails be of wrought iron or cast 
metal, they ought not to have sharp edges 



NAILING. 



79 



or corners, as the young wood is frequently 
damaged by rubbing against them, which 
will happen by the wind blowing them about 
before they are laid in. 

When nails are to be used a second time, 
they should be straightened, and afterwards 
boiled for an hour or two, or heated in an 
oven, in order to destroy the larvae of insects. 

Shreds of woollen are the most suitable for 
use, the colour of them is immaterial; but I 
prefer dark coloured ones, as having the best 
appearance. The length and breadth of them 
must be regulated according to the branches 
to be secured, they should never be broader 
than is absolutely necessary, and they must 
be as long as will allow plenty of room for 
the branches, which should be so easy as 
nearly to admit another branch of the same 
size as the one secured; they should also be 
folded up a little at each end, so that in 
driving the nail through the shred, it will 
have to go through four thicknesses of cloth. 
For when through two only, if the branch 
be strong it very soon tears out, but this will 
seldom be the case when folded up as di- 
rected. 

Never use more nails and shreds than are 
absolutely required, as a great quantity does 
not look well, and is injurious. 

Always take care to place the shreds be- 
tween the buds along the branches, and al- 
ternately on each side of the branch; unless 



80 



NAILING. 



a branch be so crooked, that it will not do 
without two upon one side before an oppo- 
site one is placed. In driving the nails into 
the wall, always let them incline with their 
heads down towards the earth, as the wet 
from nails is injurious to the trees. 

Care must be taken in nailing the trees, 
to keep the branches close to the wall, par- 
ticularly the larger ones, because they natu- 
rally incline from the wall, and when they 
are not well secured, this will generally be 
the case; and if allowed to remain at a dis- 
tance from it one year, it will be with diffi- 
culty they can be got to their proper place 
again, without having recourse to something 
stronger than nails and shreds. Whenever 
this is rendered necessary, an iron inclosure 
must be used for the purpose, having it 
painted previous to using: the following is 
the description of it, and also in fixing it to 
the wall. It is formed with an half circle 
to come upon the branch, and at each end is 
an horizontal piece about one inch, or a 
little more in length, in which is a hole. 
The diameter of the half circle must be pro- 
portioned to the branch to be secured, taking 
care that it is half an inch or upwards wider 
on each side. Two screws being made, are 
driven into the wall, one on each side of the 
branch, upon which the circular part is placed 
and secured down, by two nuts. A piece of 
woollen cloth is placed betwixt the branch, 



NAILIXG. 



81 



and that part of the iron which presses upon 
it. When the branch swells and increases 
in size the nuts must be loosened so as to 
allow a little more space. 

Instead of securing the strong branches 
agreeably to the method directed, I have 
observed it to be done in the following 
manner. Strong irons with a hook at the 
top were driven into the wall, so far that 
the hook brought the branch to its proper 
place, at which it would keep it afterwards. 
But this practice is very objectionable, be- 
cause when the iron hook is allowed to 
remain for two or three years before it is 
removed, the branch in swelling frequently 
grows over a part of the iron, which always 
causes the tree to canker in that place; and 
sometimes so much as to destroy that part 
of the branch above it. This might be 
avoided by drawing the iron a little out at 
the winter nailing of the trees and then 
again at midsummer, but this is very trou- 
blesome and is not near so good a mode of 
securing the strong branches as that recom- 
mended above. 

Every wall tree ought to be loosened from 
the wall at the winter pruning, and the wall 
should then be swept clean and coloured if 
required; the tree also should be anointed 
with composition if necessary. The re-nail- 
ing of the trees must be performed as soon as 
possible after they are pruned, anointed, &c. 

M 



82 



NAILING. 



in order to preserve them from injury by 
the wind blowing about the shoots, which 
rubs off or breaks the buds, also from sus- 
taining damage by snow breaking the shoots. 
It is the practice of some persons to allow 
their trees to remain loose until spring, but 
it is a bad one, for there is not any benefit 
derived from it, but on the contrary they are 
exposed to the injuries described. 

In fixing a tree to the wall that is trained 
fan way, always place all the strong arms 
first regularly in their proper direction, 
when this is done proceed to nail in the 
younger wood by beginning with the lowest 
main branch on one side, and then go on 
regularly round to the other side. In nail- 
ing in the young wood, always begin at the 
end of the branch, and dispose of them re- 
gularly along it up to the stem of the tree. 

Whenever shreds are to be used which 
have previously been applied to the purpose, 
let them be tried well by pulling to see if 
they are strong enough; such as are found to 
do, must be boiled for half an hour in soap 
suds and urine, in order to destroy the larvae 
of insects which were deposited in them ; 
after being dried they may be used with safe- 
ty. But if they had been used again with- 
out this precaution, the larvae of insects which 
were in them would have been retained. 
And when come to such perfection as to be 
able to commit their ravages the ensuing 



NAILING. 



83 



summer it will require infinitely more trouble 
and expense to destroy them at that time, 
besides the injury the tree sustains from their 
depredations before they can be entirely 
destroyed. 



84 



CHAPTER XII. 

The method of applying Compositions for the destruction of 
Insects, and counteracting the effects of those diseases to which 
fruit trees are subject, with remarks on its effects and advan- 
tages. 

The application of a composition for the 
destruction of insects, is a practice which I 
have adopted for many years upon the fruit 
trees under my care. To it in a great degree 
I attribute the health of the trees, and they 
scarcely ever are attacked with what is 
termed blight, which I believe is in a con- 
siderable measure prevented by the effects 
of the composition, for the quality of the 
ingredients composing the liquid which is 
applied, promotes the health of the trees, as 
well as the destruction of insects. Because 
it enters the tree through the pores of the 
wood, and is afterwards transmitted to the 
various parts of it, which is conducive to the 
strengthening of the young wood, and by 
applying it at the season of the year here- 
after directed, the buds are considerably 
improved in health and boldness. 

It is a well known fact that insects will 
lodge and deposit their larvae in various parts 
of wall trees, or in holes in the wall during 



APPLYING COMPOSITION. 85 



the winter season; if such survive the effects 
of frost and severe weather, and are not 
otherwise destroyed before spring, they then 
issue forth, increase very rapidly, and in such 
numbers that they commit very extensive 
injury; and it is sometimes with great diffi- 
culty that they can be destroyed, and not 
without a deal of trouble and expense, as 
well as considerable damage done to the trees 
in effecting their destruction. For w T hen the 
trees are infested during the time that the 
wood is young and tender, the means which 
are then obliged to be employed in order 
to suppress the insects frequently destroy 
or damage the foliage, and sometimes the 
young wood, to the great injury of the tree, 
when in many instances it might have been 
avoided. 

In order to avoid such bad effects I have 
recourse to the following practice. I always 
have the wall trees entirely loosened from 
the wall every year at the winter pruning, 
and the wall and tree swept clean with a 
common hand brush; such of the walls as 
have been coloured by paint, coal tar, or 
other means, must have all the places which 
are made bare by pulling out nails, &c. re- 
coloured previously to anointing the tree 
with composition; but whether the wall be 
coloured or not after it is swept clean, let it 
be well washed with urine, applying it with 
a brush, being careful that as little as pos- 



86 



APPLYIXG COMPOSITION. 



sible fall on the trees, because it is injurious 
to them, but it will be destructive to insects 
and their larvae which may be deposited in 
the walls*; after this is done the trees may- 
be anointed with the composition. (The 
directions for making the exposition proper for 
each kind of fruit tree k ill be found at the end 
of this uork.J The composition must be laid 
on with a brush, such as is generally termed 
a painter's dusting brush. In laying on the 
wash, always be careful to draw the brush 
up the shoot, for by doing the contrary way 
the buds are apt to be damaged. Let it be 
well rubbed into all the joints, as the insects 
or larvae are generally deposited there. The 
composition must be in a tepid state, what 
is commonly termed new milk warm, as the 
ingredients are then in a fermenting state, 
and the effects it produces are more powerful 
when in that condition. To preserve the 
temperature of the composition, let only one 
pint be carried to the wall to be applied at 
once, and let an earthen pot be used for 
the purpose, as earthen vessels retain heat 
much better than those made of tin or other 
metal. 

Espalier trees may be anointed with the 
same success as wall trees; I also find it 
highly beneficial to apply it to standard 



* All loose rough bark must be pared off, and after the application of the 
composition, a new bark will be formed. 



APPLYING COMPOSITION. 



87 



trees as far as it can be done. Its effects in 
all kinds of fruit trees are not only apparent 
in the destruction of insects, but it also clears 
the trees of lichen, and prevents its reproduc- 
tion. This very materially contributes to the 
health of them, for when trees are covered 
with it, the pores of the wood in those places 
are closed, which always renders a tree un- 
healthy. 

I do not find it necessary to use the 
composition every year, for when the trees 
have not been infested by insects during 
the preceding summer, nor subject to lichen 
or moss, I omit it for that year, but do not 
fail to apply it the year following. The ex- 
pense of the composition is very trifling, a 
large tree when entirely washed over will 
not cost more than threepence. 



88 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Protecting the bloom of wall trees. 

Various are the means employed to pre- 
serve the bloom of fruit trees from the inju- 
rious effects of frost and severe cold winds, a 
great many of these contrivances do a deal 
more harm than good. Amongst the num- 
ber of practises are the following : some per- 
sons use branches of fir, yew, fern, or broom, 
by fastening them to the walls or branches 
of the tree so as to cover the bloom, and thus 
protect it; but a great deal of blossom is apt 
to be brushed off by them, when the wind 
blows them about. Besides when put on so 
thick as to be able to protect the bloom from 
frost, it is generally too thick to admit a 
suitable portion of light and air to it, and 
for want of it the bloom or young fruit fre- 
quently withers and drops off; the young 
wood too is always much weaker. It is also 
very difficult and troublesome to get new 
branches every year, which require a good 
deal of time and care in fixing them against 
the trees, and likewise in taking them down 
again. 

If one of the above kinds of covering is to 
be used, broom is a great deal preferable to 



PROTECTING BLOOM. 



89 



any of the others. Previously to fixing it 
up against the trees, it should be soaked for 
twenty-four hours in soap suds and urine, 
and then be dried previous to using. This 
process ought always to be practised upon 
any of the other sorts of branches described, 
for it destroys the insects or their larvae which 
may be deposited in them. 

A large coping, so as to project a foot 
or eighteen inches over each side of the 
wall, is thought by some persons to be a 
very excellent preservative of bloom. I do 
not consider this to be a good plan, par- 
ticularly when they are fixed copings, for 
they prevent the gentle dews from falling 
upon the trees : and when they are tempo- 
rary copings, they are expensive in the form- 
ing and erecting, and after all they do not 
fully answer the purpose; for they are only 
a defence against the frost which falls in still 
weather; but when there is a keen frosty 
wind they are of very little service, and it 
is then that they are most required. 

Others use screens of canvass or bunting, 
which I think are also objectionable, and 
more so when they are fixed covers for the 
season, they then exclude a great proportion 
of light and air which are so very essentially 
necessary to the prosperity of the tree and 
bloom, or young fruit. And when such 
screens are moveable, (that is fixed by roll- 
ers and other means in order to fold them 

N 



90 



PROTECTING BLOOM. 



up during the day, and to admit of their 
being drawn over the trees at night,) they 
are expensive in the erection, and keeping 
in repair, and they also cause a good deal 
of trouble in letting down and drawing 
up. They are also objectionable for ano- 
ther reason ; when the covers have been 
drawn over the trees during the night, they 
will generally be damp, and when folded up 
in this state they speedily rot, and to allow 
them to remain stretched over the trees until 
the covers are dry, would be injurious to the 
bloom or young fruit, as a considerable de- 
gree of heat would be collected underneath 
the covers by that time, and when removed 
away, the sudden admission to the cold air 
injures them, besides the best part of the day 
(in reference to the trees) would thus be 
lost. 

The sort of protection I adopt and strongly 
recommend as a great deal more beneficial 
and durable, also considerably cheaper in the 
end than the before-mentioned covers is, 
woollen nets, which may be purchased at a 
low rate of the original inventor at Yeadon, 
near Leeds, Yorkshire; or of Messrs. Back- 
house, Nurserymen, York; and also in some 
parts of Lancashire. This netting completely 
preserves the bloom, as the frieze which is 
upon it receives the hoar frost, and as it dis- 
solves in the morning, a suitable portion of 
light and air is afforded to the trees : it also 



PROTECTING BLOOM. 



91 



repels the force of cold winds and is an effec- 
tual protection. 

The plan I pursue in fixing up the nets 
over the trees is, to keep them at some dis- 
tance from the wall, for when they are al- 
lowed to hang down against the trees, the 
nets being blown about by the wind fre- 
quently rub off the buds or otherwise injure 
them. To prevent this I get some slender 
poles, of such a length that they will reach 
from the underside of the coping down into 
the ground at four feet from the wall, the 
bottom of the pole may either be fixed into 
a small stone sunk into the border a few 
inches deep, or be sunk into the border with- 
out a stone, having that part of the pole 
which is buried in the ground previously 
dipped in pitch in order to preserve it from 
rotting; but the former method is preferable. 
The poles are placed at six feet apart from 
each other. Care is also taken that there be 
no sharp edges or splinters upon them, for 
when there are, the nets are frequently en- 
tangled and chafed so as to damage them 
considerably. After the poles are fixed, the 
nets are tied to them, beginning at the top 
first and regularly stretching them to the 
bottom, but so as to leave about four inches 
at the ground entirely open, which admits a 
suitable current of air to the wall, but not 
so as to incur any injury to the trees from 
frost. 



92 



PROTECTING BLOOM. 



The trees which I protect in this manner 
are those against a south wall, particularly 
Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot trees, which 
require such help; because the sun acting 
for a longer time, and with greater influence 
in the early part of spring upon this aspect 
than upon the others, the trees are brought 
into bloom earlier, (and the earlier in the 
season the stronger the frosts generally are) 
than those on the other aspects are, and 
therefore require a protection. But as those 
trees on the other aspect do not bloom till 
later in the spring, when the weather is 
generally more mild, such a covering may 
be dispensed with, and other means em- 
ployed in lieu of it. If there comes a few 
days of strong frost late in the spring, when 
such trees are in bloom, and the walls be 
flued, a little fire heat may be given to pre- 
vent any injury from it, or they may be 
watered early in the morning after a frosty 
night, as will be hereafter directed. 

In placing the nets over those trees which 
require it, I fix them up, if the weather be 
severe, a few days before the blossom begins 
to open, after they have been placed over 
them for a week or two, most of the bloom 
will generally be expanded, if the frost be 
severe at that time so that danger from it is 
apprehended, (as the stamina and pistillum 
are very susceptable of injury from frost; 
consequently when they get damaged before 



PROTECTING BLOOM. 



93 



fecundation has been effected, no fruit need 
be expected at such blossoms,) and the wall 
be flued, a little fire heat must be applied. 
In the application of this, very great care is 
requisite. The fire should be lighted so early 
in the afternoon, that the wall may be at a 
proper degree of heat by seven o'clock at 
night. That part of the wall above the 
trellis to be at a proper heat, should be a 
little more than new milk warm, this will 
not be injurious to the trees, but will be quite 
sufficient to preserve the bloom under the 
nets. At that part of the wall where the 
trellis is fixed, it may be allowed to be a 
little hotter; this will indeed always be found 
the case, in order to get the wall to a proper 
heat above the trellis. It is a very difficult 
thing to use fire heat early in spring when 
there is no covering to the trees, for the de- 
gree of heat necessary in such a case to pre- 
serve the bloom would be injurious to the 
wood. I therefore never apply fire heat 
early in spring without having some cover- 
ing over the trees. But it may be used for 
a day or two late in spring without any out- 
ward covering, the weather being generally 
less severe at that time. 

When I consider the weather is so tem- 
terate that no ill effects from frost or cold 
winds are likely to be sustained, I remove 
the nets, always chusing a dry day for the 



94 



PROTECTING BLOOM. 



purpose, that they may not be folded up in 
a damp state, which would rot them. 

Another method I frequently adopt in the 
preservation of the bloom and young fruit is 
this ; after a frosty night I sprinkle cold water 
upon the trees by means of a garden engine, 
doing it early in the morning before the sun 
acts freely upon the trees. If the day fol- 
lowing such a frosty night, be cloudy and 
very frosty, the watering must then be omit- 
ted for that day, otherwise it would be the 
cause of more injury being sustained. This 
application of cold water, has a very bene- 
ficial effect when done as directed, for it acts 
as a medium between cold and heat, and b}^ 
preventing too sudden a transition from those 
extremes, it very materially preserves the 
bloom or young fruit. When the trees are 
in bloom, the water must be sprinkled upon 
them as fine as dew, which may be effected 
by placing the finger at the end of the pipe. 
The necessity of this caution is, that water 
falling forcibly upon the bloom, would wash 
off the farina from the stamina, but Avith care 
this may be avoided. If the fruit be set, the 
water may be allowed to proceed with greater 
force. 



95 



CHAPTER XIV. 

The necessity, advantages, and method of thinning fruit. 

A JUDICIOUS thinning of fruit is frequently 
found necessary, not only to increase the size 
and flavour of those which remain, but also 
to promote the continual productiveness of 
the tree. This practice will generally be 
required, as the tree will mostly set a great 
deal more fruit than it would properly sup- 
port without weakening it, and a much 
greater loss would be sustained by leav- 
ing too large a quantity at one time, than 
by properly thinning every year. For by 
attending regularly to this management, 
the continued fruitfulness of the tree will be 
considerably promoted, so as to have (with 
the use of the other proper means, such as 
watering, &c.) a suitable crop of fruit every 
season. But when a tree is allowed to over- 
bear itself, it generally weakens it so much 
that there is seldom any fruit the season fol- 
lowing, and sometimes it is two or three 
years before it regains its former vigour. If 
a tree be permitted to retain all the fruit 
that sets upon it, it takes a great deal of sup- 
port which in part ought to have been 
expended in the production and perfecting* 



96 



THINNING FRUIT. 



of suitable wood to bear another season; 
and the fruit will not be so fine, nor the 
flavour so good; for the finer the fruit the 
better the flavour providing no other means 
are resorted to but such as are plainly point- 
ed out by nature. In order to bring fruit 
to a large size I have used means which 
have considerably increased the size of the 
fruit, but the flavour has been rendered in- 
sipid by it. 

The manner of thinning fruit which I 
adopt in reference to Peach, Nectarine, or 
Apricot trees is, always to take them off by 
means of a pair of small pointed scissors, 
such as are generally used for the thinning 
of Grapes, it is a far superior method to that 
of pinching and pulling them off, for harm 
is generally done to those that are to remain, 
by injuring their footstalks, which ought 
carefully to be avoided. For if the footstalk 
of the fruit is injured to the middle of it, the 
fruit is almost certain to drop from the tree; 
and if it happens to survive such injury, it is 
always stinted afterwards in its growth, and 
certain to be of a bad flavour. 

Respecting the quantity of fruit each diffe- 
rent kind of tree must be allowed to bring to 
perfection, it will be directed in the article 
on the treatment of each respectively. 

The quantity recommended to-be retained 
in the articles alluded to is calculated for a 
tree in a vigorous bearing condition, but 



THINNING FRUIT 



97 



when a tree is in a weakly state, less fruit must 
be kept upon it. And if in too vigorous 
a state, more, so that it must be regulated 
in each, according to the health of the tree. 

Fruit to be properly thinned, require 
that it should be done at two different 
times. If a tree has not a great deal more 
fruit than it is proper for it to bear, let half the 
quantity required to be taken off be removed 
the first thinning, which should be when 
the fruit is about the size of a large marrow 
pea, and the remainder must not be taken 
away until the fruit is stoned. The necessity 
of attending to those directions is, that at 
the time when the fruit is stoning many 
generally drop off, more or less in quantity 
according to the treatment of the trees; 
( See watering the roots of fruit trees ) but by 
reserving and using proper caution in the 
first thinning, there will remain more than 
is wanted after the stoning is over, and such 
can be taken away agreeably to directions. 
The necessity also of taking a portion off at 
an early stage of their growth as already 
described is, that if all were left till after the 
stoning, the great abundance would cause a 
greater quantity to drop off in proportion ; 
because fruit will fall off the tree at the time 
of stoning, for want of nourishment as well 
as by too great a portion of it. And the 
greater quantity of fruit to support, the less 
is the portion of food each receives, and the 

o 



98 



THINNING FRUIT. 



effects already stated are the result. Also 
to regulate the quantity of fruit at the first 
time of thinning in the proportion it is de- 
signed to have it remain for the season, as 
is the practice of some persons, is objection- 
able; because when only a suitable quantity 
for the tree to mature is left, and any drop 
off at the time of stoning, a less crop is thus 
produced than desired, or is requisite; but 
by attending to the proper directions, these 
effects will be avoided. 



99 



CHAPTER XV. 

The advantages of thinning the leaves of fruit trees. 

Thinning away the leaves of fruit trees 
is a practice which I have adopted for many 
years with very great advantage. The kind 
of trees which 1 have found it necessary to 
treat in the manner hereafter described, are 
Peaches and Nectarines, and occasionally 
Apricots. The benefits resulting from this 
are, that by it the fruit is brought to a 
richer flavour, and the buds are greatly im- 
proved in boldness and attaining a proper 
state of perfection. 

This treatment is particularly required in 
the northern and colder parts of this king- 
dom, because the general warmth of the 
climate, even with the assistance of walls, 
does not afford such a degree of heat as is 
equal to that of the native country of some 
of the sorts of fruit trees, consequently as 
near an approximation as possible to their 
native temperature must be endeavoured, in 
order to get the tree and its fruit to a proper 
state of perfection. 

Such of the tender kinds of fruit trees as 
the general warmth of this country appears 
congenial to, will certainly require less of 



100 



THINNING LEAVES. 



that attention which is so evidently necessary 
to others. But to all the Peach and Nec- 
tarine trees under my care, I find it necessary 
to thin away a portion of the leaves every 
summer, but particularly so in wet cloud v 
seasons. For without it the fruit buds would 
not have been so matured as to be productive 
the year following; or if any, only in a very 
partial manner, and when this happens the 
wood is apt to get too luxuriant, by the tree 
not having a suitable crop of fruit to support. 
I have known instances where trees have 
been two and three years before they were 
brought to be properly productive again, 
which defect originated in not attending to 
the ripening of the wood. But when such 
a defect occurs, a less quantity of food must 
be given to the tree, and the branches be 
depressed in order to check luxuriancy and 
promote its fruitfulness. 

Great care is required in thinning the 
leaves both as to the time and manner of 
performing this operation, because the leaves 
of a tree are very essential to its support, 
as well as the sustaining and perfecting 
of the fruit which it produces. For, take 
away the leaves from a shoot before it has 
arrived near to a state of maturity, and such 
shoot receives a very great check, and the 
buds will be unproductive and will throw out 
only wood the next year. Also take away 
the leaves from a shoot that has fruit upon 



THINNING LEAVES. 



101 



it, and such fruit will not come to a proper 
state of perfection, but will be small and in- 
sipid. Therefore to take away the leaves in 
an indiscriminate manner at an early stage 
of their growth, would effect a great stag- 
nation in the tree, and be injurious both to 
the wood and fruit, and the tree would be 
as unproductive the next year as in the case 
before cited. But by attending to the fol- 
lowing instructions such a disappointment 
will be avoided, and on the other hand, the 
tree will be greatly benefitted. 

In taking off the leaves in order to effect 
the ripening of the wood, I commence it as 
soon as I have gathered the fruit, (and occa- 
sionally if the season be late, before this is 
entirely done) I consider that by that time, 
the leaves have performed the greater part 
of their office to the wood, which has gene- 
rally done growing in length and is only then 
employed in acquiring maturity, and by cut- 
ting away a part of the leaves it greatly 
promotes that, by admitting a greater por- 
tion of sun and air to it. I thin away the 
leaves at two different times, the first time 
as already directed, and the second about a 
fortnight afterwards. At the first dressing 
I cut about half the leaves, but not entirely 
away, only about half of each leaf so cut; 
by this means a suitable portion of light and 
air is admitted, and those buds situate at the 
base of the leaves which are cut, are not en- 



102 



THINNING LEAVES. 



tirely deprived of the assistance required by 
them. The other half of the leaves must be 
cut off in the same manner, about ten days 
or a fortnight afterwards, as before directed. 

When the summer is a very favourable 
one, and the wood gets ripe in good time, 
I dispense with the practice described; but 
have found it necessary for the last twenty- 
five years, with the exception of three or four 
summers. It will not either be so requisite 
in the southern and warmer parts of this 
country, as in the colder ones; but when 
found necessary in any situation, the practice 
has a very beneficial effect. 

Also when the fruit appears not to ripen 
well, and there is reason to fear a deficiency 
of flavour, I always pinch off those leaves 
which overhang it, for the more openly ex- 
posed it is to the sun, the richer the flavour 
and the handsomer the fruit will be. Though 
this practice is not generally pursued, yet it 
is very seviceable when performed. 



103 



CHAPTER XVI. 

The advantages of mulching fruit trees. 

What is generally termed mulching of 
fruit trees is of very great advantage to them, 
for in winter it in a great measure preserves 
the roots from the severity of frost, and in 
summer keeps them from drought. 

This practice is particularly necessary to 
trees that are newly planted, the new fibres 
which such trees make for the first year or 
two, require protection and encouragement; 
for they being of a tender nature, and gene- 
rally weakly, are therefore more liable to 
injury from severe frost and drought. A 
strong frost always naturally forces the soil 
upwards, and the deeper the frost penetrates 
the ground, the higher the soil is forced up 
at its surface: and when trees that have been 
newly planted are not mulched, the tender 
roots of such are generally forced up with 
the soil; displaced, and sometimes broken 
from the stronger ones, and they suffer 
equally as much from a root being torn 
in pieces, as what they do from a branch : 
and when the soil comes to thaw, and is dis- 
solved, the tender roots if not damaged and 
broken, have to strike afresh and establish 



104 MULCHING. 

themselves again; this is almost certain to 
be the case when there is a frequent alter- 
nation of frost and thaw. The stronger the 
roots, the less they will suffer; and the more 
strong roots a tree has, the less is the mis- 
chief from the cause described. 

I extend the use of this practice further 
than to newly planted trees; I do it to all 
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Vines; 
the reason for this is, that it protects and 
encourages those young roots that are near- 
est to the bole of the tree, which I always 
endeavour to do. For when a tree comes 
to be removed, or the roots require cutting 
in and the border renovated, it is conducive 
to their future establishment and success, to 
have young roots so situated, up to which 
some of the older ones may be pruned away. 

The article which I use for mulching with, 
is either littery manure or old spent bark; 
this must be laid about six inches thick over 
the roots, and to newly planted trees the 
extent of three feet from the bole, but to 
large established ones five or six feet, when 
the border will admit of it. If the border 
be cropped, it must be laid between the 
plants when convenient. 

To newly planted trees the mulch is laid 
over the roots immediately after they are 
planted, and remains both summer and win- 
ter for the first two or three years, only 
removing it every year at the end of autumn. 



MULCHING. 



105 



To large established trees as before described, 
the mulch is applied at the end of November, 
and removed in May. 

The practice here recommended is proper 
to be adopted to fruit trees that are planted 
in borders as directed by me; (see formation 
of fruit tree borders) but where the trees are 
very differently situated, such as being plant- 
ed in a wet soil, unless the borders are of a 
very good slope they should not be mulched 
during winter, for the mulching of level 
borders, which are of a wet nature, in win- 
ter, is injurious to the trees, because the 
mulch has a tendency to retain moisture, 
which when too great, rots the tender fibres 
and causes a diseased tree. But as borders 
of this description are very liable to crack 
during hot dry summers, it is advantageous 
in such seasons to have recourse to the prac- 
tice of mulching; which prevents the soil 
from cracking, and the roots thereby escape 
the damage which they would otherwise sus- 
tain. For when the soil cracks considerably, 
many of the roots are generally broken by 
it, or stretched to such a degree as to be 
very injurious to them. I have seen many 
trees that have very materially suffered in 
the manner described; the effects of which 
soon became apparent in the upper part of 
the tree, by its being weakly and diseased; 
particularly in trees of the stone fruit kind. 

p 



t 



106 



MULCHING. 



When littery manure is used as mulch, 
after it is spread over the roots, a few spades 
full of earth, or a few stones may be placed 
upon it, in order to prevent the wind from 
blowing it away. 

The practice described may appear tedious, 
but it is certain to repay for the trouble, and 
one person may do fifty trees in one day; 
therefore the expense is very trifling in lay- 
ing on the mulch, and the manure is fit for 
other purposes when removed from the trees. 



107 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The treatment of sickly fruit trees in order to bring them to a 
healthy fruitful condition. 

It will occasionally happen, that although 
the border has been properly prepared, and 
the trees previous to planting have appeared 
healthy, and were pruned, planted, &c. agree- 
ably to directions given, yet through some 
inherent disease, a tree may after a year or 
two become sickly; in this case the leaves 
will be yellowish, and the wood very weak. 
I have observed trees remain in this state 
for several years after planting, and then 
to recover; but in those cases I was per- 
suaded that the disease was not inherent, 
only an accidental one, arising from some 
defect in planting. 

But when a tree appears thus affected, let 
some hogs dung and cows dung, in equal 
quantities, be put into a tub, and some soft 
water poured upon them; after these have 
remained together for several days, some of 
the water may be drained off, and poured 
over the roots of the tree. 

This application of manure water must 
not be commenced earlier in the season than 
when the tree begins to push, when if the 



108 



TREATMENT OF 



soil is not very moist, a little may be given; 
but if the soil be in a very moist condition, 
some of the dung of both sorts may be spread 
over the roots about one inch thick. If the 
tree was mulched, this dung may be laid 
upon the mulch, and thus the benefit of the 
dung will be conveyed to the tree, by the 
rain filtering through it. 

During summer, whenever the soil be- 
comes dry, some more of the water may be 
applied, and this must be repeated, when 
required. 

If the soil in which the tree is planted be 
a stiff cold one, let some pigeon or fowl's 
dung be soaked as directed for the other, 
and in dry weather let some of the water be 
poured over the roots. If the summer be a 
wet one, some pigeon or fowl's dung must 
be spread over the roots agreeably to the di- 
rections for the hog and cow dung. 

Whilst attention is paid to the roots, let 
the top of the tree be sprinkled over with 
soft water every day, or at least every other 
day, doing it early in the morning while 
danger is apprehended, from frosty nights, 
succeeded by sunny mornings, and afterwards 
about an hour before the sun leaves the tree 
in the afternoon. The branches of the tree 
must also be trained as erect as^possible, so 
as to avoid crowding them. 

During winter, the trees should be mulch- 
ed whether planted in a suitable soil, or in 



SICKLY FRUIT TREES. 



109 



a wet one; and a large board should be laid 
over the roots upon the mulch, in an incli- 
ning direction from the trees in order to pro- 
tect the roots as much as possible from heavy 
drenching rains, which at that time would 
be injurious to such trees. 

In addition to this treatment of trees that 
are planted in a wet soil, if the border has 
not been sufficiently drained, this should be 
done as soon as possible. ( See proper direc- 
tions for formation of fruit tree borders.) And 
if the border was properly drained, some well 
rotted tanner's bark, gravel, &c. must be 
trenched in that part of the border into 
which the roots have not struck. 

If the instructions given be attended to 
for two years, and the tree does not recover 
in that time, it is the best plan to take it 
away and replace it by another. But unless 
the tree is affected by an incurable disease: 
the attending to the practice directed, will 
be successful. 

A tree will sometimes be weakly and 
stinted in its growth for several years after 
planting, by it having been planted in a 
careless and improper manner; this I have 
frequently found to be the case with those 
trees, that previous to being planted in the 
border, had grown in pots, the roots of which 
being thus confined, generally run round the 
side of the pot, and become matted together. 
These when planted, having been allowed to 



110 • TREATMENT OF 



remain in the same direction, the weakly 
state of the tree was the consequence. ( For 
proper directions in planting fruit trees see 
Chapter V.) If any such negligence has 
been permitted, the tree ought to be taken 
up and replanted in a proper manner, by 
placing the roots in a straight and outward 
direction. 

In some instances a tree may be weakly 
and diseased from having the roots bruised 
and damaged at the time of taking up and 
planting, and not being pruned aw ay in the 
manner they should have been. When this 
is suspected to be the case, it is advisable 
to take up the tree and examine the roots, 
and prune any diseased parts away; after- 
wards it may be replanted. But if attention 
be given to watering the tree with manure 
water, it will rarely be required to take it 
up as here directed. 

When a tree has been planted several 
years, extends considerably, and has been 
trained and pruned properly, if it should 
produce plenty of bloom but no fruit, (see 
Chapter on the Pear) it is very evident that 
there is some defect either in the soil or 
situation, but this will frequently be caused 
by the soil being too cold and wet. If such 
a soil is in a good state of fertility from 
having a suitable portion of manure in it, 
the best remedy in such a case is, to mix, as 
far as it can possibly be done, some coarse 



SICKLY FRUIT TREES. 



Ill 



sand or grave], and well rotted tanner's bark 
in the border; and if it has not been properly 
supplied with drains, this must be also done, 
and the surface of the border made to slope 
from the trees. If the soil be cold and wet, 
also poor; it must then in addition to drain- 
ing, if required, have a good portion of well 
rotted horse dung and half rotted tanner's 
bark, with a little of either sand or gravel 
trenched into it. In case a general trench- 
ing should be injurious to the roots, manure 
water from the drainings of the dunghill 
may be poured over the roots in the spring 
and summer, in that part of the border not 
disturbed. 

A tree that has been planted in a suitable 
light soil may also be in a defective state as 
before alluded to, through the soil becoming 
poor; an application of strong manure water 
should be given to the border occasionally, 
which by enriching it, will frequently render 
the tree productive. In wet weather, during 
spring or summer, some manure may be 
spread upon the border, the strength of 
which will be conveyed to the roots by the 
rain. 

A tree will sometimes be barren from be- 
ing in an unfavourable situation, and the 
buds thereby not receiving a suitable por- 
tion of sun, do not come to a fruitful state, 
consequently the bloom will be defective. 
(See Chapter on Pear.) The tree ought in 



112 



TREATMENT, &C. 



this case to be removed to a warmer aspect, 
that the buds may get matured, and be 
brought to a bearing state. 

A tree may be in a weakly condition from 
having the branches infested with moss or 
lichen, and thereby being deprived of proper 
support: this must be immediately cleaned 
off with a brush and soap suds, after which 
it will flourish and do well. 

Trees of a weakly condition, when pruned, 
must have the wood cut in shorter than what 
will be directed in this work to be practised 
on healthy trees. If it be a tree which prin- 
cipally bears upon spurs, as the Apple, the 
spurs must also be kept shorter until it at- 
tains a proper degree of strength. 

Trees that are weakly will always be bene- 
fitted by training the branches as erect as 
possible, and when they have acquired a 
sufficient degree of strength, they may then 
be trained more horizontally. 



113 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

The treatment of vigorous fruit trees. 

It frequently happens, that a young tree 
will grow very vigorous for a few years after 
being planted. When this is the case, as 
great a portion of wood must be retained as 
can be allowed, so that the influence of the 
sun is not thereby excluded from operating 
upon it; for if that was the case, the buds 
would not be matured, consequently the tree 
would be kept unfruitful, by which luxuriancy 
would be encouraged. Besides the retaining 
of a large portion of wood, the branches must 
also be depressed, so as in some cases to train 
them in a pendulous manner*. 

If after this practice has been attended to 
for two years, the tree should continue to be 
luxuriant and unfruitful, the soil should be 
taken off the roots near to the bole of the 
tree, and a strong root should be cut away. 
In doing this, always cut close up to a lateral 
root, so that no bare stump remains. See 
pruning the roots of fruit trees previous to plant- 
ing.) The root which is severed from the 



* Manure water must also be withheld. 

Q 



114 



TREATMENT OF 



tree may remain in the border, but cut away 
an inch or two off' the end, where the cut was 
made. After this is done, the roots must be 
covered up again, the soil be pressed a little 
upon them, and afterwards be watered in 
order to settle it properly. 

The best time of performing this operation 
is the spring, just before the rising of the sap, 
for the check given thereby to the tree, is 
greater than when it is done in autumn. 

Attention must be paid to obtain ripe 
fruitful buds as soon as possible, by admit- 
ting plenty of sun and air lo the wood. (See 
thinning away the leaves of fruit trees.) For 
when a tree can once be brought to a bear- 
ing condition, its luxuriancy is easily checked, 
and it may afterwards be kept in any state 
desired. 

When none of the methods laid down will 
effect the desired purpose, I have recourse to 
the following which never fails when pro- 
perly performed. It is to take the tree up 
and replant it, either in the same place, or 
some other as necessary. I allow the top of 
the tree to remain without any shortening, 
except cutting away any damaged parts. 
The roots are got up as long as possible, and 
are allowed to remain so, only finishing the 
end of any broken root by a clean cut, taking 
care also to get a tolerable ball of earth with 
them. ( See the taking up and replanting large 
trees.) 



VIGOROUS FRUIT TREES. 



115 



The reason for allowing the branches to 
remain at their full length when the tree is 
replanted is, that when they are cut in, and 
the tree is planted again, it is nearly as vi- 
gorous as before; I have often observed this 
to be the case; but permitting them to re- 
main as directed, promotes the desired end. 
This will be very evident by pursuing the 
instructions given for taking up and replant- 
ing the tree. The best time of taking up 
and replanting is in autumn; they then get 
properly established before the rising of the 
sap, and thus are enabled to mature fruit 
buds the ensuing year. 

In pruning trees that are vigorous and 
luxuriant, the wood should always be left 
longer in proportion to its luxuriancy, than 
what is directed to be done to good bearing 
trees in this work. (See the treatment of each 
in its respective place.) 



116 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Gathering stone fruit. 

However trifling the introduction of this 
subject may appear, there is sufficient im- 
portance in it, to warrant some observa- 
tions ; because it is the practice of many 
persons, to let fruit remain upon the tree as 
long as it will, even to allow it to drop off, 
from the idea that the fruit is then in its 
highest degree of flavour; but this is an 
erroneous conclusion, for the fact is, that for 
two or three days previous to dropping off 
the tree, it is declining in flavour, and in 
that case it will become more and more 
tasteless, the longer it is kept before eaten. 

The best time at which to gather the fruit, 
is about three days before it would have fallen 
from the tree, as it is then in its highest 
state of perfection. Besides when they are 
allowed to drop from the tree, although there 
may be straw or moss for them to fall upon, 
or nets to catch them in, they are generally 
bruised, and always are worse for it. And 
the longer such are kept, the worse they be- 
come. 

The principal difficulty appears in know- 
ing the time when the fruit is in a proper 



GATHERING STONE FRUIT. 117 



state for gathering. It certainly requires 
observation and practice in order to be fully 
acquainted with it. 

Never pinch a fruit in order to know whe- 
ther it is ripe or not, particularly the Peach, 
Nectarine, or Apricot, because they are sooner 
damaged by it than any other kinds. But 
to ascertain whether they be ripe or not, let 
the hand be placed underneath, and the fruit 
be gently raised a little ; if it be at that ad- 
vanced state proper to be gathered, it will 
come off immediately, but if not ripe enough, 
it will adhere : by attending to this, the proper 
criterion will soon be learned. 

A funnel lined with velvet is used by some 
persons for gathering fruit, but the practice 
recommended is a great deal better. 



118 



CHAPTER XX. 

The treatment of the Apple tree trained against a wall, or as an 
espalier. 

Although most kinds of Apple trees will 
bear well as standards, yet some do better 
when trained against a wall, or as espaliers. 
Because they derive advantages from these si- 
tuations, which they cannot receive as stand- 
ards; the heat which is afforded them by the 
reflection of the sun, contributes materially 
to the ripening of the buds, and bringing the 
fruit to a higher degree of flavour, and a 
larger size, than they would be in other cir- 
cumstances. To have some of the choicest 
kinds brought to high perfection, is not only 
profitable, but will certainly yield a consi- 
derable degree of pleasure and satisfaction. 

There are some sorts of Apples more par- 
ticularly suited for walls and espaliers, such 
as the Golden Pippin, Ribstone Pippin, &c. 

The sort of soil which is most suitable for 
Apple trees, is a strong loam with a dry 
bottom; for if the bottom be wet, the trees 
are generally diseased and aifected with 
canker. {Directions for making the borders are 
given in the Chapter on the formation of fruit 
tree borders, fyc.) 



APPLE TREE. 



119 



The aspect best suited to Apples planted 
against a wall is either east or west, they 
will do well against either, for the bloom 
does not open so early in the spring as the 
Plum or Cherry, and is therefore more safe 
on an east aspect than they are; for by the 
time that the Apples bloom, the strong frosts 
are generally over. (Directions for planting 
the trees are given in Chapter V.) 

The distance at which to plant the trees 
apart, must be regulated according to the 
growth of the sort. A strong growing kind 
must be twenty-five feet, and one of a less 
vigorous habit must be twenty feet. This is 
proper for a wall twelve feet high; against a 
wall of a less height, they must be set fur- 
ther apart in due proportion. (See the Chapter 
on training fruit trees.) Always plant a maiden 
tree, and one that has only one upright stem. 

In the following instructions, I shall state 
each year's method of pruning, for such a 
number of years after the planting of the 
tree, as appears to me to be fully necessary. 
The commencement of each year I date from 
the beginning of winter pruning. 

First Year. — Winter Pr lining.— -The tree 
must be headed down just before it begins 
to push. The time will be varied according 
to the lateness or forwardness of the spring; 
but it will easily be discovered when the sap 
is beginning to rise, by the swelling of the 
buds. When the tree is cut down, let one 



120 TREATMENT OF THE 

foot be placed upon the soil close to the bole, 
in order to prevent it from being drawn up, 
by the force which is used in the operation. 
Care must be taken to have a sharp knife, 
that the cut be as smooth and even as possi- 
ble, and in a sloping direction towards the 
wall; the cut must be made half an inch 
above the bud which is selected for the lead- 
ing shoot. 

When the tree is headed down, it must be 
done so, that seven buds remain upon the 
stem which is left. If the tree be a weak 
one, let it be pruned down so that three eyes 
remain; but a strong tree is far the best, 
and in Apples is very readily procured, as 
they generally grow vigorously. 

After heading down, it must be secured to 
the wall by a shred and nail, allowing a suffi- 
ciency of room in the shred for the wood to 
swell. The horizontal method of training is 
preferable to all others for Apple trees against 
walls. 

Summer Pruning. — A tree cut down as di- 
rected, and every bud pushing, which will 
generally be the case, they must all be per- 
mitted to grow until they have attained three 
inches in length, when two of them must be 
rubbed off, those to be rubbed off are the 
third and fourth buds counting upwards from 
the origin of the tree. 

The uppermost shoot must be trained 
straight up the wall for a leading stem, and 



APPLE TREE. 



121 



the remaining four horizontally along the 
wall, two on each side the stem of the tree; 
these must be trained nine inches apart, 
which distance is the best for the approved 
treatment of the Apple tree. For, when 
they are much nearer than this, they exclude 
the sun and air from operating upon the buds 
and wood, in such a manner as is required 
to keep the tree productive. Also by being 
too close, they afford harbour for insects: 
nor can remedies be so w r ell applied in order 
to destroy them. But by having them at 
the distance of nine inches, every advantage 
is received from the sun and air, and the 
trees are more easily kept clear from every 
thing injurious. The snoots must not be 
permitted to push too far, without being se- 
cured to the wall; for being very brittle, 
they readily break by the force of the 
wind. 

Do not let the shoots be pinched in the 
shreds, as it would cause the buds to break 
prematurely, below the place in which the 
shoots were thus strangled. And when this 
occurs it is injurious, by causing those buds 
to push the first season, which ought not to 
have done so until the second. If an ac- 
cident of this kind happen, a shoot well 
situated nearest to the end of the damaged 
branch,, must be trained forward for a lead; 
and if more shoots than one were produced 
by the accident, they must be treated in 



122 TREATMENT OF THE 



every respect as directed for similar shoots, 
in the instructions laid down for the second 
year. 

When the leading upright shoot has at- 
tained about fifteen inches in length, let the 
end be pinched off, so as to leave it about 
eleven inches long. This stopping will cause 
some shoots to be produced from the upper 
part of the lead which was stopped ; it also 
considerably strengthens the side shoots* 
which are to be the future branches of the 
tree. 

Three of the shoots which proceed from 
the new wood, and were produced by stop- 
ping the lead, must be trained in; the up- 
permost straight up the wall, and the others, 
one on each side the stem of the lead. 

The stopping of the leading branch as here 
directed, must not be deferred later than the 
end of June, or early in July ; for when it is 
done much later than this time, those shoots 
which push afterwards in that season, do not 
arrive at a sufficient degree of maturity to 
withstand the effects of winter, and frequently 
are destroyed by frost. But if done as early 
as directed, the wood attains to a proper de- 
gree of hardness, so as not to be injured ma- 
terially by the severest weather. 

When it happens that a tree has not done 
well in the early part of the season, and the 
upright shoot is not of a suitable length at 
the proper period for stopping it, it should 



APPLE TREE. 



not be meddled with afterwards, until the 
winter pruning of the tree. 

When a tree shoots weakly, the stopping 
of the upright leading shoot is of great im- 
portance to it, as it is thereby strengthened 
considerably in every part: also when a tree 
is strong, the stopping produces two new 
side shoots, and the sap which is expended 
in them, moderates the vigour of the tree, 
and luxuriancy is prevented by it. 

When a tree grows too vigorous, or too 
weak, recourse must be had to those reme- 
dies of lowering or raising the branches, &c. 
agreeably to instructions given in each re- 
spective Chapter. 

Second Year. — Tf inter Pruning. — At the 
middle or end of November the tree may be 
pruned. The upright leading shoot must 
now be shortened down to ten inches from 
the place where it was stopped during the 
last summer. The tree will now be in the 
state as described by Fig 1. 



Fig. 1. 



124 



TREATMENT OF THE 



The side shoots (but which will hereafter 
be termed branches) must not be shortened 
any, but left their entire length. 

If during the summer, the end of a branch 
should have been accidentally broken or 
damaged, the general consequence resulting 
from it, would be the production of several 
shoots, or fruit buds. If shoots, which is 
very generally the case, were produced, and 
shortened during summer, agreeably to di- 
rections for similar shoots in the treatment 
of the tree, this second year, they must now 
be cut down to about half an inch in length, 
see Fig. 2. If instead of shoots, natural 
fruit buds, should have been produced (these 
are short and stiff from half an inch to an 
inch in length) such must not be meddled 
with, as it is on such, that Apple trees bear 
fruit. 

The advantage of shortening back the up- 
right shoot (which will be hereafter termed 
the main stem) as much as is directed to be 
done is, that by it, branches are certain to 
be produced at those places desired. Whereas 
if it was allowed to remain much longer, it 
would be very uncertain whether shoots 
would be produced as low down as required, 
so as to have branches at a regular distance 
from each other: because those buds push 
that are nearest to the top of "the leading 
shoot, and thus the middle and lower part 
of it are destitute of branches. And when 



APPLE TREE. 



125 



branches are required at such a part, but no 
shoots were produced there, a vacancy occurs, 
which was caused by improper pruning. 

If the leading shoot be cut back agreeably 
to instructions given, such vacancy will never 
be occasioned, and the tree will fill up its 
space as early as required. For it will reach 
to the top of a wall twelve feet high in seven 
years; which is as soon as it will be able to 
do, so as to support every part sufficiently. 

The tree must be loosened from the wall, 
and the wall be swept and washed ; also the 
tree anointed with composition, if required. 
The old mulch must be taken away, and 
some new be substituted in its place. These 
directions must in every future stage of the 
tree, be carefully attended to every year at 
the winter pruning: also as to watering the 
tree both at the roots and top, agreeably to 
the instructions laid down in the treating of 
each Chapter respectively. 

Summer Pruning. — When the buds upon 
that part of the main stem which was pro- 
duced, last, have pushed; let them all be 
rubbed off to the three uppermost. The top- 
most shoot must be trained straight up the 
wall for a lead to the main stem; and the 
other two be trained one on each side. 

The instructions already given for stopping 
the main lead in summer, also in shortening 
it back, at winter pruning, and rubbing off 
shoots, must be attended to, until the tree 



1-26 



TREATMENT OF THE 



arrives at a few inches from the coping of 
the wall, when it will be no longer necessarv. 
The side branches must be allowed to grow 
without being shortened back at any time, 
until they have extended as far as can be 
admitted; when they will require to be pru- 
ned in every winter, by shortening the lead- 
ing shoot back to two or three buds from 
where it pushed the spring before. When 
this method has been adopted as long a 
time as it possibly can be done, the end of 
the branch must be cut back half a yard 
or two foot, to a well situated shoot for a 
supply. Any shoots arising at the forepart 
of the upright or main stem, must be taken 
away. If they be very young when disco- 
vered, rub them off; but if through neelect 
they have remained so long as to become 
woody, let them be cut off close to the 
bole of the tree: for if they were broken off 
at such an advanced growth, the bark of the 
stem which produced them, would be torn. 
Should a lead be accidentally broken, prune 
back to a suitable eye or shoot, in order to 
procure a supply. 

The buds upon the wood made last year, 
will this summer generally make short ro- 
bust ones, which are the fruitful buds; such 
must be encouraged, in order to have them 
properly matured. If, on the contrary, 
is sometimes the case, shoots arise instead of 
fruitful buds, they must be allowed to grow 



APPLE TREE. 



127 



ten or twelve inches long, until the wood at- 
tains a little degree of hardness towards the 
bottom of it, which will generally be the 
case in Jane, when they must be cut down 
to about two inches in length. And at the 
bottom part of what remains, one or two 
fruit buds will afterwards be formed, so as 
to be productive in some cases the next year, 
but in others, not until the second year: 
these must be treated agreeably to their con- 
dition as will be hereafter directed for such 
buds and shoots. 

Although such a shoot was shortened in 
June, as directed, yet it will generally push 
a shoot or more the same season, from the 
top part of it. After such have grown a 
suitable length, they must be cut back to 
about two inches from where they pushed. 
If more than one shoot were produced after 
the first shortening, and a bud or two is well 
swelled at its origin as before described, all 
the shoots may be left and shortened as di- 
rected; but if such a bud does not swell, all 
the shoots must be cut clean away, to one 
which may be treated in shortening as di- 
rected. The latter practice will generally 
be found necessary, and also be most advan- 
tageous; as a greater portion of sun and air 
is admitted to the buds, which will be consi- 
derably strengthened and forwarded to a 
mature state. 

Third Year. — Winter Pruning, — In pruning 



128 



TREATMENT OF THE 



the tree at this time, such of the buds as ran 
into wood shoots the last year, and were 
shortened during summer agreeably to in- 
structions given, must now be shortened 
more. It frequently happens that a fruitful 
bud, or in some instances two, will have 
been formed at the lower part of the shoot 
during the last summer, as Fig. 2. a, a; such 
shoots must now be cut off about a quarter 
of an inch above the uppermost of those 
fruitful buds, as b; but as sometimes is the 
case, if there have not been fruitful buds 
produced, there will be growing buds, and 
then the shoot must be cut down so as to 
leave one bud, as c. 




On some occasions the growing buds will 
appear but very indistinctly, and are in an 
embryo state, yet by close observation they 
will be easily perceptible. When this is the 
case, the shoot must be cut down so as to 
leave two of those embryo buds, as d, d; 
this will generally be, to leave it about 
half an inch in length. Upon that part of 
the branch made the first year after plant- 
ing of the tree, there will generally be some 



APPLE TREE. 



129 



natural fruit buds which did not push to 
shoots, all such must be left entire, as e; 
they are from half an inch to an inch in 
length, strong and robust, the end of the 
buds are of a reddish colour, and is very dis- 
tinguishable from growing buds, which are 
considerably less and all of a dark colour. 

Summer Pruning.— -This summer, the fruit- 
ful buds will be productive, when the fruit 
has swelled a little, a shoot will generally 
proceed from the stem of the spur (which it 
may now be so called) just underneath the 
fruit; such may be allow r ed to grow eight 
or ten -inches long, and must then be short- 
ened back to tw r o inches, or so low as to 
leave three eyes upon it, as Fig. 3. a. By 
the shortening of this, strength is thrown into 
the fruit, and during summer, two or more 
fruit buds will generally be produced at the 
bottom of the shoot thus cut down, as b, b, 
or otherwise from the lower part of the spur, 
as c. It sometimes occurs that when the 
tree is very vigorous, some of the buds b, b, 
will push into shoots, or occasionally into 
bloom, during the latter end of summer. If 
shoots are produced, they must be allowed 
to grow ten inches long, and then be cat 
back to two inches. When bloom is pro- 
duced, it must be immediately cut off close 
under the blossom. 

The shoot w^hich proceeds from the bud, 
c, Fig. 2. must be allowed to grow to twelve 

s 



130 TREATMENT OF THE 



inches in length, and then be cut down to 
two inches; if it shoot again after this short- 
ening, it must be pruned as directed for simi- 
lar shoots in the second summer. 

The shoots which were pruned as directed 
last winter, and had embryo buds as d, d, 
Fig. 2. will during this summer have a fruit 
bud, and in some cases two, formed at their 
bases. If a shoot pushes, it must be short- 
ened as directed, for the shoots which pro- 
ceeded from the bud c, Fig. 2. 

The advantage of cutting back the shoots, 
&c. agreeably to instructions here given, is, 
that it will generally cause fruitful buds to 
be formed near to the origin of the shoots, 
as Fig. 3. b, b, c. 

From the time when the blossom expands, 
until the fruit has attained a good size, it 
will frequently be observed that many of 
the leaves will be curled, and clustered to- 
gether; when this is noticed, the treemust 
be closely examined, as a small grub will 
generally be found inclosed in the curl of 
the leaves; the trees must then be washed 
with lime water, &c. (See Caterpillar, in the 
Chapter on Insects.) 

After the fruit has begun to swell, they 
must be regularly thinned; and where there 
are two fruit situated together, one must be 
taken away 

During this summer, shoots or fruit buds 
will be formed on that part of the branch 



APPLE TREE. 



131 



made the second year after planting, these 
must be attended to agreeably to the in- 
structions laid down both in winter and 
summer pruning, for the buds, shoots, and 
spurs, on that part of a branch made the 
first year. Such directions also apply to 
every other year's wood, in the future pro- 
gress of the tree when at a similar age and 
condition. 

Fourth Year. — Winter P mining. — The spurs 
A and B, Fig. 3. (which are those that were 
productive last summer, and upon which a 
shoot was made and shortened agreeably to 
direction, Fig. 3. a,) must now be regulated. 
If there be two good fruit buds formed upon 
the stem of the spur, as d, d, Fig. 3. spur B; 

Fig. 3. 



C e 




all that part of it above such buds, must be 
cut away, about a quarter of an inch above 
the uppermost, at c. But if there is only 
one good fruit bud upon the stem, and one 
upon the shoot which was cut in during 



132 TREATMENT OF THE 



summer, as at a, spur A; then it must be 
pruned oft', as at spur C, e, e, so that the two 
buds f, f, only remain. When there is only 
one good fruit bud upon the stem of the spur 
as the spur D, a, and no fruitful buds at the 
shoot b, then all the spur must be pruned 
away just above bud, a, as at c*. 

Great care is required in the pruning in 
of spurs, as the fruitful buds are very brittle 
and are easily bruised, or rubbed oft'. 

Summer Pruning. — Whatever shoots are 
produced during summer, upon the spurs, let 
them be pruned shorter, or be entirely cut 
out, agreeably to the instructions already 
given. 

Fifth Year. — Winter Pruning. — All the 
spurs must be allowed to retain three fruit- 
ful buds each; but as there will generally be 
more than would be proper to keep, it will 
be necessary to thin them, always retaining 
the best buds. The ripest buds, (which is 
the most to be depended on for fruitfulness,) 
are most plump and red at the ends. If 
such buds are situated near to the origin of 
the spur which supports them, as spur A, 
Fig. 4. a, a, a, they must be retained, in pre- 
ference to similar fruitful buds that are nigher 
the end of the spur, as b, b, when the spur 
must be cut off at c, c. When there are no 



* Sometimes those spurs that bear fruit will not have a shoot produced, 
but instead of it a fruitful bud, as spur E, a, it must then be pruned oft' 
just above such a bud at b. 



APPLE TREE. 



133 



fruitful buds near to the origin of the spur, 
those must be left that are further off; but 
always take care to preserve the bud situated 
nearest to the branch which supports the 
spur, whether it be a growing, or a fruitful 
one, as spur B, a, fruitful bud; b, growing 
bud. In taking off the buds required, they 

Fig. 4. 




must be carefully pruned away by a small 
pointed knife; and all, whether fruitful or 
growing ones, must be cut clean away, ex- 
cept the one directed to be retained. 

If there be a suitable supply of buds upon 
the old part of the spur, as spur C, c, c, c, 
let them be kept in preference to those buds 
formed at the base of a shoot which has been 
pruned once or more during summer, as b ; 
for when there is a proper supply on the old 
part of the spur, all such shoots should be 
cut clean away, with the exception of one 
that is situated near to the origin of the 
spur, as e, when that bud, and the tw r o next 



134 



TREATMENT OF THE 



should only be left. It will sometimes hap- 
pen, that after a tree has borne fruit a year 
or two, the shoots that push at the ends of 
the branches, will have a few fruitful buds, 
as Fig. 2. e, formed upon them the first 
summer; such buds must remain, as they 
will be productive the season following. 

Summer Pruning. — Attention must be paid 
to this, in shortening the shoots, or thinning 
them away, agreeably to the instructions 
already given. 

Sixth Year. — -Winter Pruning. — In order to 
convey a correct method of the treatment of 
the spurs at this time, it will be necessary 
to point them out by numbers, as one, two, 
and three. The enumeration will proceed 
from the bole of the tree along the branch, 
as far as the spurs extend upon each sepa- 
rate year's wood; after these spurs are thus 
numbered, I begin again, and proceed with 
No. 1. &c. agreeably to Fig. 5. 

Fig. 5. 




Every spur No. 1. on the first year's wood, 



APPLE TREE. 



135 



must now be cut down to the lowest bud 
there is upon it, whether it be a fruitful bud, 
as a, or a growing bud, as b. Every spur 
No. 2. to have three fruit buds, as c, c, c; 
and every spur, No. 3, to have four fruit 
buds, as d, d, d, d. 

When a spur, No. 1. is destitute of either 
a fruitful or growing bud towards the lower 
part of it, such a spur must be cut down so 
low, as only to leave about half an inch re- 
maining, as Fig. 5. A, there is generally an 
eye or embryo of a bud situate near the ori- 
gin of the spur, as a, spur A; from this a 
shoot or a fruitful bud will be produced the 
ensuing summer, and thus a supply will be 
obtained for that cut away. 

Summer Pruning. — All shoots must be 
shortened during summer, agreeably to the 
instructions laid down. Particular care must 
be paid to the spurs No. 1. as a shoot or fruit- 
ful bud will generally be produced nearer to 
the base of the spur, than to the bud that 
was left at the winter pruning, and most 
commonly at the opposite side of the spur. 
If any spur was cut entirely down as A, 
Fig. 5. and a shoot arises from the part then 
left, it must also be shortened as the others 
are; if a natural fruit bud is produced, it 
must remain undisturbed. 

Seventh Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
No. 1. will now generally have two fruit 
buds each, they must be allowed to retain 



136 



TREATMENT OF THE 



them as Fig. 6. a, a; if instead of a fruitful 
bud, a shoot pushed and was shortened 
during summer, as b, and fruitful bud was 
formed at the lower part of it, the shoot 
must then be cut off just above it at c; but 
if there was not a fruitful bud formed, it 
must be shortened so as to leave it half an 
inch long as at d. The spurs No. 2. must 
have four fruit buds left upon each as e, e, e, e. 
The spurs No. 3. must now be cut down so 
that only one fruitful or growing bud remains 
as f. 

Fig. 6. 



l\ A 




If a fruit bud has been produced from the 
spur, cut entirely down as represented by- 
spur A, Fig. 5. it must be left entire as Fig. 6. 
g, but if a shoot instead of a fruitful bud, it 
must be cut off just above the lowest bud, 
whether a fruitful or growing bud, as at h, 
spur B. 

At this time the spurs No." 1. upon that 
part of the branch made the second year 
after planting, will require to be cut down to 



APPLE TREE. 



137 



one fruitful or growing bud, or entirely away 
as done to those upon the first year's wood. 
All other spurs upon every year's wood at a 
similar age and state, must be attended to 
agreeably to the instructions given for the 
spurs upon the first year's wood. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be attended 
to as done in every previous year. 

Fig. 7. 




Eight Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs, 
No. 1. must have three fruit buds left upon 
each, as Fig. 7. a, a, a, and the spurs No. 2. 
must now be cut down. If there be a bud 
near the bottom, it must be just above it, as 
Fig. 6. but if no visible bud, cut it off so as 
to leave about a quarter of an inch, as spur 
A, Fig. 5. The spurs No. 3. will now have 
a new fruitful bud, or a shoot, in addition to 
that left the last winter pruning, it must now 
be pruned as d, d, d, for the fruitful bud, and 
as e, e, for the growing shoot. The spurs A 
and B, Fig. 6. must now be regulated, the 
spur A, will generally have a second good 

T 



138 TREATMENT OF THE 



fruit bud, which must be left as A, Fig. 7. 
And the spur B, will have made a shoot, at 
the side of which, a fruit bud is generally 
formed ; if it be near to the bottom of it, let 
the shoot be shortened just above it, but if 
the fruitful bud be at the end of the shoot as 
spur B, Fig. 7. a, let the shoot be cut down 
below it as at b. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be perform- 
ed agreeably to directions for the previous 
year's, wood and spurs. 

Ninth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
No. 1. must be allowed to have four fruit 
buds each, Fig. 8. a, a, a, a, the spurs No. 2. * 
to have two fruitful buds, as b, b, and the 
spurs No. 3. to have three, as c, c, c, 

Fig. 8. 




Always leave those buds that are nearest 
to the origin of each spur. If any spurs 
were cut entirely down, let such shoots or 
buds as were afterwards produced, be regu- 
lated agreeably to instructions in the eighth 
and ninth years treatment. See the Plates. 



APPLE TREE 



139 



Summer Pruning, — This must be performed 
agreeably to instructions given. 

Ninth Year, — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
No. 1. must now be cut down, if there be a 
fruitful or growing bud situated near to the 
origin of the spur, it must be cat down to 
that, as Fig. 9. a, a fruitful bud, b, a growing 
bud. The spurs No. 2. must be pruned to 
three fruit buds, c, c, c, and the spurs No. 3. 
to have four fruit buds, as d, d, d, d. 




It will be observed that the spur No. 1. 
has now been cut down twice, the first time 
in the sixth year, and the second in the 
tenth, thus having borne fruit four years. 
This would be the case with those spurs that 
were only cut down to a fruitful bud, as 
Fig. 5. a; but if cut down to a growing bud, 
as b, it would only have borne fruit three 
years. Also if the spur was cut entirely 
down, as A, Fig. 5. it would have only borne 
three years. In both the latter cases it 
would be advisable to leave them with three 
fruit buds each this winter, and cut them 



140 



TREATMENT OF THE 



down the next; unless they should have 
grown vigorous and long, when they would 
require it, as directed for those which were 
cut down to a fruitful bud. 

This regular system of cutting down and 
treating the spurs, must be practised upon 
all other spurs, as is here directed. Thus 
the next year the spur No. 3. must be cut 
down as in Fig. 6. f, and then the second 
year from this time the spurs No. 2. as Fig. 
7. b; and in the fourth year from the present 
period, the spur No. 1. cut down as Fig. 5. 
a, will require to be cut down again. By 
pursuing this system of pruning, the spurs 
will always be at a proper distance from 
each other, so that a suitable portion of sun 
and air is admitted to them, and the spurs 
are always kept supplied with young healthy 
wood, and fruitful buds. This renewal of 
spurs may be practised five or six times, and 
frequently many times more than that num- 
ber, and the tree will be well supplied with 
young fruitful spurs. And thus those long, 
injurious, straggling spurs which are so 
generally to be seen, and which so disfigure 
the tree, are avoided. Although the plan 
here laid down may appear tedious, yet 
when it is pursued, it will not be so, and 
will abundantly compensate for all the trou- 
ble and attention required. 

After a series of years it will be desirable 
to have a new set of branches to the tree, 



APPLE TREE. 



141 



this may be effected either by heading down 
the tree entirely, and afterwards training 
up a single shoot and proceeding as with a 
young tree; or, by training in new shoots in 
succession from the bole of the tree, or from 
the branches. This latter method is pre- 
ferred by many persons, as the tree is 
thereby kept fruitful every year, whereas 
in the first method there is a loss of fruit for 
two or three seasons. 

In pursuing the latter plan, the following 
particulars must be attended to. Four years 
previous to the time it is designed that the 
old branches shall be cut away, let shoots be 
trained in from the bole of the tree if pos- 
sible, otherwise from the branches. Such as 
are well situated at the side of a branch, 
and as near to the bole as can be had, must 
be chosen. In four years, the first part of 
the new branch will generally be well sup- 
plied with good fruitful spurs and buds, the 
old branches must then be cut away close to 
the bole of the tree, or to the origin of the 
new branch. See Fig. 10. a, a, old branches. 



Fig. 10. 



142 



TREATMENT, &C. 



b, new one from the bole, c, from the branch, 
d, where pruned to. 

The former of these two methods described 
is that which I prefer, as the trees bear finer 
fruit and are equally fruitful. When the 
new head is forming, great attention must 
be paid to the training of vigorous branches 
in a pendulous manner, which brings them 
to a fruitful condition, when they may be 
trained horizontally afterwards. 

Apples trained as Espaliers. 

The proper soil and method of planting 
the tree, &c. is treated upon in the respective 
Chapters upon each. The branches should 
be trained at nine inches apart, and the plan 
of forming the head of the tree must be pur- 
sued, that is laid down for wall trees. The 
method of pruning the spurs on wall trees 
must also be practised, with this exception, 
that when a spur has five fruitful buds upon 
it the winter before it is to be cut down, they 
may all be permitted to remain. Whereas 
in wall trees only four are left, but Espaliers 
will admit of the full number having a more 
free circulation of air than wall trees. 



143 



CHAPTER XXI. 

The treatment of the Pear Tree against a Wall. 

The soil most suitable for Pear trees is a 
good strong loam, and if too retentive of 
moisture it should have a little gravel or 
scrapings from a public road mixed with it. 
The border must be made dry, &c. agreeably 
to the directions given under that Chapter. 

The trees should be planted twenty-five 
feet apart for a wall twelve feet high, and 
more or less in proportion to the height of 
the wall. Maiden plants of one year old are 
the most proper to be chosen for planting, 
(See directions, in taking up, pruning the roots, 
and planting the tree, under their respective 
Chapters.) 

The most beneficial mode of training the 
Pear is the horizontal ; the vigorous habit of 
the tree requires it, in order as early as possible 
to bring it to a fruitful condition. When it 
occurs that one trained after this method 
still continues unfruitful for several years 
after planting, the branches must be trained 
in a pendulous manner, and more or less so 
according to the luxuriancy of the tree, but 
always commence the training in the hori- 



144 



TREATMENT OF THE 



zontal method, and afterwards change the 
direction of the branches as required. 

Pear trees produce their fruit on spurs 
and buds similar to Apples, but one mode 
of pruning is not alike suitable to all kinds 
of Pear trees. I shall therefore first treat of 
those that require a method of pruning 
nearly the same as that laid down for Apples. 

First Year. — Winter Pruning. — The head- 
ing down the trees must be performed in 
spring, and it must be cut so low as only to 
leave three buds, (if the plant be vigorous 
it may be cut to seven buds, and treated in 
rubbing off buds, &c. as for Apples). 

Summer Pruning. — When the shoots have 
pushed, let them be secured to the wall 
before they get long, as they are very liable 
to be broken off by wind or other accidents, 
and such shoots cannot easily be supplied 
with others well situated to fill up the va- 
cancies. The uppermost shoot must be 
trained straight up the wall, and the re- 
maining two, one on each side the bole of 
the tree. When the upright shoot has 
advanced about fourteen or sixteen inches, 
let the top be pinched off so as to leave it 
ten inches long From the top of this short- 
ened shoot three or four shoots srenerallv 

-I 

push, let the uppermost be trained straight 
up the wall, the next two one on each side. 
This stopping of the shoot must not be done 
later than the latter end of June, or early in 



PEAR TREE. 



145 



July, for reasons assigned in the treatment 
of the apple. 

The branches must not be shortened at all 
either in summer or winter pruning of the 
trees, until they have extended as far as the 
wall will allow. 

Second Year. — Winter Pruning. — The up- 
right shoot or head of the tree must now be 
cut down to about ten inches from the upper- 
most branch, as Fig. 1. a; b, b, the branches 
which pushed at spring; c, c, those that were 
caused to push by the stopping of the lead- 
ing shoot at midsummer. 




The tree must be anointed with composition, 
if required, agreeably to directions in that 
Chapter. 

Summer Pruning. — When the shoots (upon 
that part of the leading stem which were 
produced after its being stopped last mid- 
summer,) have attained two inches in length, 
let the three uppermost be preserved, and all 
others be rubbed off. Of those three retain- 

u 



1 46 TREATMENT OF THE 

ed, one must be trained straight up the wall, 
and the other two, one on each side the main 
stem. 

The method now laid down for supplying 
the tree with branches, must be attended to 
both in winter and summer pruning, until it 
reaches its destined height. 

Whatever shoots are produced on the 
branches, they must be allowed to grow 
until they are twelve or fourteen inches long, 
and then be pruned back to two inches, this 
may be repeated, if required. 

Third Year. — Winter Pruning. All the 

shoots which were produced and shortened 
during the last summer, must now be pruned 
down to about half an inch in length, as 
Fig. 2. If on any of the shoots there should 
be a fruitful bud produced near to the bottom, 
such must be pruned just above the lowest 
bud as in Fig. 2. a, growing bud, b, fruitful 
bud. 




Some kinds of Pear trees come to a produc- 
tive state earlier than others, but it is rarely 
the case, that any will be fruitful before the 



PEAR TREE. 



147 



fourth year after planting, and in some cases, 
(varying according to the richness and depth 
of the soil, &c.) not until the fifth, sixth, or 
seventh year: but as some are fruitful from 
the fourth year, I shall give instructions for 
treating such trees from that period. ( See 
instructions for treating vigorous trees.) 

Summer Pruning. — This must be attend- 
ed to agreeably to the instructions already 
given. 

Fourth Year. — Winter Pruning. — All the 
shoots which were produced and shortened 
during last summer, must now be regulated. 
Those that have a fruitful bud near to the 
bottom of them, must be cut off just above 
each, as b; some of the shoots will sometimes 
have neither growing or fruitful buds, but 
have several embryos round their bases, stich 
must be cut down so as to leave about half 
an inch remaining, as c. It will occasionally 
happen that there will be small embryo 
fruitful buds, but which will not arrive at a 
mature state until the next autumn, as Fig. 
2. d. These must be allowed to remain in 
the state they are in, as well as all the fruit- 
ful buds e, which are to bear the ensuing 
summer. 

Summer Pruning. — All those spurs that 
have fruit upon them will generally have a 
shoot produced, which arises just underneath 
the fruit, such must be shortened to two 
inches in length, as well as all other similar 



148 TREATMENT OF THE 



shoots when they have arrived at a proper 
state to require it. ( See directions already given 
for this work.) 

It is very general to see healthy Pear trees 
which produce an abundance of bloom but 
set a very small proportion of fruit; this 
is more particularly the case with the ten- 
derest kinds. The reason of such barren- 
ness is in some cases from the stamina being 
destitute of farina, and in others from the 
farina having been dispersed before the pis- 
tillum had arrived at a proper state for its 
reception. To remedy such defects, I adopt 
the following practice. As soon as the florets 
have expanded and the pistillum is in a pro- 
per state of maturity, I impregnate six upon 
each corymb of blossom. The florets which 
I choose for this operation are those situated 
nearest the origin of the spur, for when Pears 
naturally set it is very generally such florets. 
The time I choose for this operation is calm 
dry days, and if possible when the sun is 
not very hot upon the trees. Immediately 
after this operation has been performed, I 
give each tree about eighteen gallons of ma- 
nure water, or soft pond water, at the roots. 
The trees should never be washed over the 
tops for a considerable time after this im- 
pregnation has been effected. ^(See Chapter 
on Peach and Nectarine trees.) 

Fifth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
a, and e, Fig. 2. will have borne fruit the 



PEAR TREE. 



149 



last summer, such of the spurs e, a, as had a 
shoot produced just underneath the fruit, as 
Fig. 3. 1, which were shortened during the 
summer, will generally have a fruit bud 
formed at the lower part, as Fig. 3. a, and 
in some cases upon the main stem of the 
spur, as b. If there be a bud situated as b, 
and another as d, the spur must be allowed 
to retain them both and be cut off at c, c. 
When anj^ of those spurs are destitute of 
fruitful buds, and have only growing ones, 
let the spur be cut down to the lowest bud, 
if situated near the bottom, as d. If the 
bud be not near the bottom, but as e, the 
spur must then be cut down to within half 
an inch of its origin, as f. 




It will sometimes occur that instead of a 
shoot proceeding from the spur close under- 
neath the fruit, as Fig. 3. No. 1. a fruitful bud 
will be formed, as g ; when this is the case, 
the spur must be cut off just above such bud, 
as h. 

The spurs, as Fig. 2. must be regulated by 
pruning them at this time down to the lowest 



150 



TREATMENT OF THE 



growing bud, to one or two fruitful buds, or 
cutting them entirely away, agreeably to the 
instructions given in Fig, 3. c, c. The em- 
bryo buds Fig. 2. d, will now have attained 
such a state of maturity as to bear fruit the 
next summer, they must be allowed to re- 
main in the state they are, as i, Fig. 3. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be attended 
to by cutting down all shoots to two inches 
long, which must be repeated, if required. 

Sixth Year. — Winter Pruning. — At this time 
all the spurs as described in Fig. 3. must be 
allowed to retain all the fruit buds there are 
upon them, and all wood shoots must be cut 
away in the manner laid down in treating 
on the fifth year, so as to retain a bud as 
near to the origin of each spur as possible. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be performed 
agreeably to instructions already given. 

Seventh Year. — Pr inter Pruning. — In order 
properly to explain the method of pruning 
the spurs in regular succession, as is now to 
be recommended, I shall treat upon them by 
numbers, one, two, and three, as already 
done in the directions for pruning Apples, 
beginning from the bole and proceeding 
along the branches as far as the wood made 
the first year, extends. 

At this time all the spurs No. 1. must be 
cut down. 

If there be either a growing or fruitful 
bud about half an inch from the bottom, as 



PEAR TREE. 



151 



Fig. 4. spur A; a, growing; b, fruitful bud, 
the spur must be cut off just above such bud. 
But when there is not a bud situated near 
the bottom, the spur must be cut down so as 
to leave about a quarter of an inch as spur 
B, d. The spurs Nos. 2, and 3, must be al- 
lowed to retain three fruit buds each. 



Fig. 4. 




Summer Pruning. — This must be parti- 
cularly attended to in those shoots which 
proceed from spurs which were cut entirely 
down as d, Fig. 4. and when they are about 
twelve inches long let them be cut down to 
two inches ; which may be repeated if neces- 
sary, by cutting them off to within two inches 
of that part of each shoot which was pro- 
duced since last shortening. The pruning 
in all shoots made upon the other spurs 
must be attended to agreeably to directions 
already given. 

Eight Year. — Winter Pruning. — All those 
shoots that have been produced from the 
spurs No. 1. which were cut down last win- 
ter pruning, Fig. 4. d, and have a fruitful 
bud near to the bottom of each, as Fig. 5. a, 



152 TREATMENT OF THE 



must now be shortened down to such bud as 
b, also, all shoots that have only growing 
buds must be pruned down to one bud c. It 
will sometimes happen that a shoot may be 
destitute of both fruitful and growing buds 
in a matured state, but there will always be 
small eyes which are the embryos of future 
buds, such a shoot must be left about half 
an inch long, as spur A, d ; there will gene- 
rally be left upon it two eyes, and the upper- 
most will always make a shoot, whilst the 
lower one will be formed into a fruitful bud. 

It occasionally happens that instead of a 
shoot arising after the spur No. 1. was cut 
down, a fruitful bud will be produced, as 
spur B, e ; such must be left entire, and it 
will be productive next season, and must 
afterwards be treated agreeably to directions 
laid down, commencing at Fig. 3. and pro- 
ceeding in its future age and condition through 
Figs. 4, 5, and 6. 



Fig. 5. 




Such of the spurs No. 1. as were not en- 
tirely cut down, but to one fruitful bud as 



PEAR TREE. 



153 



Fig. 4. b, will generally now have two 
fruitful buds, if so, they must be allowed 
to keep them, cutting away any shoot that 
may have pushed and was shortened during 
the summer, down to such buds, as Fig; 5. 
spur C, f, f. The future treatment of these 
spurs must be attended to agreeably to the 
instructions previously laid down. The re- 
mainder of the spurs No. 1. cut down last 
winter pruning to a growing bud, which 
pushed a shoot and was shortened during 
summer, will generally have fruitful buds 
at the lower part of them, as Fig. 5. g, the 
spur must then be cut down to h. The 
spurs No. 2. must have three fruitful buds 
left, as Fig. 5. i, and the spurs No. 3. four, 
as k. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be regulated 
as already directed. 




Ninth Year. — If inter Pruning. — The spurs 
No. 1. must be allowed to retain whatever 
fruitful buds there may be upon them, and 
there will generally be two at least, as Fig. 

x 



154 



TREATMENT OF THE 



6, a, a, The spurs No. 2. must now be cut 
down to the lowest bud, whether a fruitful 
or growing bud, if such be situated near to 
the bottom of the spur, as Fig. 6. b, other- 
wise the spur must be cut down to cause 
an embryo to push, as in spur A, Fig. 6. c. 
The spurs No. 3. must have three fruit buds, 
as d, d, d. 

Summer Pruning. — Particular attention will 
be required to those shoots which proceed 
from the spurs No. 2. cut down at the last 
winter pruning; these shoots, and all others, 
must be pruned agreeably to the instructions 
already given. 

Tenth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
No. 1. must now be allowed to have three 
fruit buds, as Fig. 7. a, a, a, The spurs 
No. 2. to be regulated agreeably to the di- 
rections given at Fig. 4. a, b, and d. The 
spurs No. 3. must now be cut down to two 
fruit buds, as Fig. 7. b, b. 




Simmer Pruning. 
before. 



■To be regulated as 



PEAR TREE. 



155 



Eleventh Year. Winter Pruning. — The 

spurs No. L must retain four fruitful buds, 
as Fig. 8. a, a. The spurs No. 2. must be 
regulated agreeably to directions given for 
the spurs No. 1. when at a similar condition. 
See Fig. 5. And the spurs No. 3. must be 
cut down to the lowest fruitful or growing 
bud, or entirely away if required. ( See Fig. 
4. spurs No. 1. or Fig. 6. spurs No. 2. where 
instructions are given for cutting away spurs.) 



Fig. 8. 




Summer Pruning. — This must be performed 
agreeably to the instructions given in the pre- 
vious year's treatment. 

Twelfth Year. — If inter Pruning. — The spurs 
No. 1. must now be cut down to two fruitful 
buds, as Fig. 9. a, a, which will cause an em- 
bryo or more, as Fig. 9. b, b, either to push 
the following summer, or to swell consider- 
ably, so as certainly to push after the old 
part of the spur has been pruned away. At 
the next winter pruning it must be cut down 
to the lowest fruitful or growing bud, if there 
be such situated about an inch from the 
branch which supports the spur; otherwise 



156 



TREATMENT OF THE 



the spur must be cut down to about half an 
inch from its origin, agreeably to the instruc- 
tions previously given. (See Kg. 4. spurs 
No. 1. and A, B.) 

It will sometimes happen that when one 
of the spurs is cut down, three or four fruit- 
ful buds or shoots will arise around that part 
which is left, as Fig. 9. d, d, k, k; if they are 
fruitful buds they must all be allowed to re- 
main until the next winter pruning, when 
they will generally be in the condition de- 
scribed by d, k. In thinning them, all must 
be taken away except two, which two should 
be the strongest and best matured; and if 
they be situated at the opposite side of the 
old spur, as c, c, they must be preferred to 
those that are closer together, as k, k, for 
when that is the case, they interfere and in- 
jure each other; when those spurs which 

Fig. 9. 




remain come to have lateral -spurs, as spur 
A, e, e, one of the main spurs must be cut 
away; g the spur to be left. 



PEAR TREE. 



157 



When shoots are produced instead of fruit- 
ful buds, as represented by d, d, k, k, they 
must be pruned down once, or more if re- 
quired, during: summer, and at the winter 
pruning they must be regulated agreeably 
to the following directions. 

It will frequently be the case that a fruit- 
ful bud will be formed at the lower part of 
such a shoot; if two shoot- situated in the 
manner of the buds c, c, have each a fruitful 
bud at its base, both of them may be left, 
but otherwise, only one. If none of the 
-hoots should have a fruitful bud, then two 
of them situated as before described must be 
left, and be cut down to the lowest growing- 
bud upon them; and when a shoot pushes 
the next summer, it must be nailed down in 
the direction described by h, which will cause 
it to form a fruit bud at the origin, as i; and 
at the next winter pruning the shoot must 
be cut off just above such fruitful bud. This 
method of nailing down shoots during the 
summer in order to make them productive 
of fruitful buds, may be practised upon anv 
part of the tree when circumstances require 
it. 

W hen the spurs thus cut down and regu- 
lated agreeably to direction-, have borne 
fruit a proper length of time, as laid down 
in the instructions already given, they must 
then be cut down to the lowest bud, or en- 
tirely away as before, and as the case requires ; 



158 TREATMENT OF THE 



these instructions must also be attended to 
in every other spur, upon every part of the 
tree, at a similar age and state. 

The previous instructions are proper to 
be practised upon those kinds of Pear trees 
that have their spurs as far distant from each 
other as Apples have, (such as the St. Ger- 
main, Brown Beurre, Burgamots, Swans' 
Eggs, &c.) but as some sorts as the Crasane, 
Chammontelle, &c. have their spurs very 
rank on the branches, a different mode of 
treatment is necessary. Upon such kinds 

Fig, 10. 




tw r o spurs (on the same year's wood) must be 
kept equally in a bearing condition, and the 
next two be pruned down to the lowest bud, 
or entirely away if required, at the same 
time see Fig. 10. a, a, spurs that are bear- 
ing, and b, b, spurs that are cut down* 
The bearing spurs must be allowed to be 
productive for the same period, and also to 
retain the same quantity of fruitful buds, as 



PEAR TREE. 



159 



were directed to be done in the other kinds 
already treated of as St. Germain, &c. But 
a different mode of treatment from either of 
the preceding is required for the successful 
management of the Jargonelle Pear tree. 
The tree must be trained horizontally, and 
be furnished with branches in the same man- 
ner as directed for the other kinds in the 
foregoing observations, only that the main 
branches must be twelve inches distant from 
each other, consequently the leading shoot 
must be pruned long enough for this pur- 
pose, which will be effected by leaving it 
thirteen inches long at each time of stopping. 

Fig. 11. 




The spurs must be allowed to retain the 
same quantity of fruit buds, as those kinds 
already treated upon, and at the proper time 
they must be cut down in the same manner, 
in order to produce new ones. At the se- 
venth winter pruning, commencing from the 
first heading down the tree, the spurs No. 1. 
on the first year's wood will require to be cut 
down, either entirely or to the lowest bud, 



160 



TREATMENT OF THE 



see Fig. 5. During the ensuing summer, a 
shoot or fruitful bud will generally be pro- 
duced from the part left. If there arise a 
shoot upon the first spur from the origin 
of the branch, as spur 1. a, Fig. 12, let it 
not be shortened during summer, but be 
carefully trained horizontally on the side of 
the branch it proceeds from, and in the di- 
rection to which it is naturally inclined. If 
that part of the branch produced the first 
year after planting, extends two feet six in- 
ches in length from the first shoot a, nailed 
in, another shoot must be trained in at that 
distance from the first, as e. This shoot 
must also be one that has proceeded from a 
spur which was cut down, and must be train- 
ed in on the same side of the branch that the 
other was; a few inches more or less in the 
distance at which they are to be apart is not 
very material, but it is very necessary they 
should be on the same side of the branch. 
It will sometimes occur that a shoot for 
training, as a, spur 1. will not be produced 
the first season after the spur was cut down, 
but instead of that, a natural fruit bud, as 
spur 1. b; in this case a supply must be 
had the second year. This may be procured 
by cutting off the top of the fruitful bud, as 
at c; and the shoot which arises must after- 
wards be treated agreeably to the instructions 
which appty to its age and condition, and 
which are laid down in treating of the shoots, 



PEAR TREE. 



161 



a, e. All the intermediate spurs such as 
Nos. 2. and 3. must be treated as directed 
for spurs in the seventh year's pruning, (see 
Fig. 5. J and in every succeeding year, the 
treatment must be pursued which is laid down 
for them. 

Eighth Year. Winter Pruning. The 

shoots which were trained in, as a, e, Fig. 1 1 . 
must remain at their entire length. 

Summer Pruning. — During this summer, 
fruitful buds will generally be formed upon 
that part of those shoots trained in, as a, e, 
Fig. 11. which was produced last year; but 
it will sometimes happen that a shoot or two 
will push instead of fruitful buds being form- 
ed, such shoots must be pruned back during 
summer to two inches, once, or more if re- 
quired, which will cause them to form a 
fruitful bud at the lower part, as Fig. 12. b. 

Fig. 12. 




Ninth Year. Winter Pruning. — All the 

natural fruit buds upon the shoots a, e, Fig. 
11. must remain entire, as Fig. 12. a, a, 
If any shoots pushed last summer and were 
shortened, each must now be cut down to 

Y 



162 



TREATMENT OF THE 



the lowest bud, which will generally be a 
fruitful one, as b; but if not a fruitful bud 
cut it down to the lowest growing bud or 
eye there may be upon it, as c, growing bud, 
d, eye or embryo of a future bud. At this 
time the spurs, No. 2. first year's wood will 
require to be cut down. (See Fig. 7. spur 2. 
b, b, b.) 

Summer Pruning. Whatever shoots are 

made on the spurs upon the shoots, which 
are trained in, as Fig. 11. a, e, they must be 
pruned down to two inches as frequently as 
required. During this summer, one or more 
shoots must be trained in from that part of 
the branch produced first year after planting, 
as done to the shoots a, e, Fig. 11. In se- 
lecting a shoot for this purpose, one must be 
chosen that has pushed from a spur, No. 2. 
which was cut down last winter pruning, 
and situated as near the middle betwixt the 
two shoots A, A, Fig. 13. as possible; it 

Fig, 13. 




must be trained at the opposite side of the 
branch to them, as E, F. If that part of 



PEAR TREE. 



163 



the branch produced first year should ex- 
tend three feet farther than the shoot E, but 
which will very rarely be the case ; another 
similar shoot must be trained in on the same 
side, and at the distance of three feet from 
the shoot E, as at F. 

Tenth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
upon that part of each shoot which were 
produced the first year after being nailed on 
as A, A, Fig. 13. will now have borne fruit 
one season, they must be allowed to retain 
all the fruitful buds there are upon them, 
there w r ill generally be two or three, as Fig. 
14. a, a, c, If the shoots (which pushed from 
the spurs) that were shortened during last 
summer, should now have a fruitful bud at 



Fig. 14. 




the bottom of them, they must be cut off just 
above each bud, as at c, Fig. 13. If there 
should not be a fruitful bud, let such shoots be 
cut down to half an inch in length. If the 
shoots A, A, should extend so as to crowd each 
other, let the end be pruned back so far as 



164 



TREATMENT OF THE 



it interferes, at which it must afterwards be 
kept, by cutting it back to that part every 
summer and winter pruning. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be attended 
to agreeably to previous instructions. 

Eleventh Year. — Winter Pruning. — All the 
spurs upon the shoots A, A, Fig. 14. must 
now be allowed to retain whatever fruitful 
buds there are upon them, as a, a, with the 
exception of the first spur upon the shoot, 
as b, Fig. 1 4. which must now be cut down 
to the lowest bud, or entirely away, as 
directed in Fig. 5. a, b, d; this is done in 
order to obtain a new shoot. Those spurs 
upon that part of the shoot produced the 
second year after being trained in, as Fig. 14. 
c, c, will generally have two or three fruit 
buds each, they must all be retained. The 
shoot B, Fig. 14. will now be furnished with 
fruitful buds; these must be regulated as 
done to those upon the shoots A, A, Fig. 11. 
at a similar age and condition. 

Summer Pruning. — The shoot which arises 
from the spur which was cut down as repre- 
sented by Fig. 14. b, must not be shortened, 
but be trained in between the branches, as 
it will be required to supply the shoot a, 
Fig. 11. when taken" away; all other shoots 
must be shortened as already directed. 

Twelfth Year. — JJ interPruning.— -The shoots 
A, A, Fig. 15. must now be cut away so far 
back as to the origin of the shoot b, which 



PEAR TREE. 



165 



shoot must be trained forward in order to 
supply the place of the shoot A, cut away. 
The spurs upon the shoots B, B, Fig. 15. will 
now generally be well supplied with fruitful 
buds; they must be permitted to retain three 

Fig. 15. 




each, and next year four each, except the 
first upon the shoot, which must at that time 
be cut down in order to produce a new shoot 
for training in, as were done to the shoots 
A, A. The spurs which afterwards proceed 
from those shoots obtained by thus cutting 
down spurs, must have the same proportion 
of fruitful buds left upon them at every 
winter pruning, and also be treated in every 
other respect as already laid down for the 
spurs which the preceding shoots supported, 
as Figs. 13, 14, and 15. This practice of 
cutting back the shoot A, Fig. 15. up to the 
spur b, must be done for the first renewal ; 
but when a new one is desired a second 
time, the old shoot must be cut so far back 
as only to leave about half an inch remain- 
ing, unless there be a growing or fruitful 



166 



TREATMENT OF THE 



bud situated near its origin, when it must 
in that case be pruned off just above it; and 
a shoot must be nailed in from some of the 
intermediate spurs, in order to supply the 
vacancy caused by the removal of the old 
shoot. When a new shoot, as Fig. 11. a, 
is desired a third time, it must be cut back 
to a spur; and when a fourth time, to an 
embryo or bud near its origin. This re- 
gular system of pruning, &c. must be pur- 
sued to all shoots trained in at that age and 
condition, when they require it. When an 
entire new set of branches is required, this 
may be obtained by the same method as is 
directed in the treatment of the Apple tree. 

It will sometimes happen amongst those 
kinds of Pear trees which are spurred and 
have not shoots trained in as the Jargonelle 
Pear tree, that some of them may be more 
inclined to produce wood shoots, than fruit- 
ful buds ; when this is caused by the luxuriant 
habit of the tree, some shoots may be trained 
in agreeably to the method practised upon 
the Jargonelle, only that the quantity of shoots 
to be nailed in must be regulated according 
to the luxuriancv of the tree. This practice 
has a very beneficial effect in moderating the 
vigour of the tree, and causing it to become 
more fruitful. When this object is obtained, 
if the shoots crowd the branches, half of such 
shoots must be cut away at one time, and in 
a year or two afterwards, the remaining half. 



PEAR TREE. 



167 



In cutting down those shoots, prune them to 
the lowest bud, if near their origin, otherwise 
to about half an inch, in order to have new 
spurs produced from them. 

If a Pear tree be in a weakly condition, 
the branches must be trained in a more ele- 
vated direction where it can be done. (See 
the Chapter on sickly fruit trees.) 

Thinning the fruit will frequently be re- 
quired, not only to cause that remaining to 
be improved, but also to promote the future 
vigour and fertility of the tree. The proper 
time for performing this, is as soon as the 
Pears begin to flesh. The quantity to be 
left upon a healthy tree, may be two fruit to 
every spur, and in some cases three. 

Pears must be always gathered by the 
hand, and not be allowed to drop. Sum- 
mer and autumn pears, must be gathered a 
few days before they would become dead 
ripe, as the flavour is then a great deal richer. 
The proper time at which they must be 
gathered, may be known by the change in 
their colour, or by pulling a fruit and open- 
ing it, and examining whether the seeds be 
hard and of a brown or black colour ac- 
cording to the sort of Pear ; or by some few 
fruit naturally dropping off the tree. 

Summer Pears should be eat soon after 
they are gathered, for in a week or fortnight 
afterwards many of the kinds begin to decay 
at the core. 



168 



TREATMENT OF THE 



Winter Pears may be allowed to hang 
upon the trees as long as they possibly can 
be permitted, so that they escape frost which 
w r ould destroy their flavour. 

For other directions in gathering and pre- 
serving Pears, (see Orchard.) 

Remedies for the diseases and insects 
which attack Pear trees, may be found in 
the Chapter on each. The caterpillar 
usually attacks them at the time of bloom- 
ing, or very soon afterwards; immediate re- 
course must be had to destroy them, other- 
wise considerable damage will be sustained. 
( See Chapter on Insects.) 



169 



CHAPTER XXII. 

On the Plum Tree trained against a wall, or as an Espalief. 

There are many kinds of Plums which 
merit a situation against a wall, indeed some 
will scarcely be productive without such aid, 
and of those kinds which bear equally well 
as standards, or wall trees, the fruit is of a 
considerably richer flavour and much finer 
when trained, than when cultivated as stand- 
ards. In the choice of a tree, and the method 
of pruning previous to planting, also in the 
planting, ( See the necessary information given 
in the respective Chapters upon each.) 

The Plum tree prospers best in a good 
strong loamy soil, for in light loam or sandy 
soil, the fruit does not attain to so large a 
size, or so good a flavour, nor does the fruit 
set so freely upon the trees. Plums will do 
against any aspect, but it is the best method 
to plant early blooming kinds against south 
or west; the other sorts may be planted 
upon any aspect, thus by having the same 
kinds against different aspects, some will 
ripen earlier than others according to their 
situation, and a longer continuance of fruit 
will be obtained. 



z 



170 TREATMENT OF THE 



The distance at which the trees are to be 
set apart, is for a wall twelve feet high, 
twenty feet; and a greater or less distance 
in proportion to the height of the wall. The 
tree must be mulched and watered every year 
agreeably to instructions given in the re- 
spective Chapters. 

The horizontal mode of training is of all 
others far the best for Plum trees. 

As in treating upon the Apple and Pear, 
I commenced the date of each year from the 
first winter pruning of the tree, I shall pur- 
sue the same method in the treatment upon 
the Plum, and shall lay down directions 
for such a length of time after planting, as I 
consider necessary fully to convey an accu- 
rate description of the mode to be practised. 

First Year. — Winter Pruning, — The tree 
must be headed down at spring. If it be a 
strong one cut it down to seven buds, but if 
a w r eakly one to three buds. When the 
shoots have pushed about two or three inches 
long, the uppermost shoot must be trained 
straight up the wall, and of the other shoots 
the two uppermost and the two lowest must 
be trained, two on each side of the main 
stem, and the remaining tw o must be rubbed 
off. As the shoots advance, let them be 
carefully nailed to the wall. When the up- 
right shoot has pushed about eighteen inches 
in length, let the top be pinched off so 
as to leave it about thirteen inches. This 



PLUM TREE. 



171 



pinching back the shoot ought not to be done 
later than the end of June or beginning of 
July. From the upper part of the shoot 
thus shortened, three or four lateral ones 
will generally push during the present sum- 
mer, three of them must be kept, the upper- 
most to be trained straight up the wall, and 
one on each side. The branches must be 
trained at twelve inches apart, for if nearer 
than this, under my mode of treating the 
Plum, a proper sufficiency of sun and air 
would not be admitted to the spurs, &c. 

Second Year. — Winter Pruning. — The tree 
will now be as represented at Fig. 1. the 
upright shoot (or main stem) will require to 
be shortened down to thirteen inches from 
the two uppermost branches, b, b, Fig. I. 
which were produced after the upright shoot 
was stopped at midsummer*. All the side 
branches must remain at their entire length, 



as 2%. 1. 
Fig. 1. 




* The plan laid clown for pruning the upright shoot at winter, and stoppinj 
it in summer, must be pursued until the tree arrives at its proper height. 



172 TREATMENT OF THE 

Summer Pruning. — The buds upon that 
part of each branch which was produced 
last year, will during this summer be formed 
either into fruitful ones, as Fig-. 2. a, or push 
into shoots, as c. If shoots, they will require 
to be cut down to two inches in length w hen 
they have attained a little woodness, which 
will generally be the case when they have 
pushed ten inches in length. If after being 
pruned down as directed, they should push 
again several inches long, the cutting of 
them back to two inches may be repeated, 
and this as frequently as required. The 
shortening of such shoots will generally 
cause them to form a fruitful bud or more 
near to their origin, as Fig. 2. 

Third Year. II inter Pruning. — At this 

period a tree that has been properly managed 
in every respect as directed, will generally 
be supplied with a few fruitful buds. My 
future observations will treat on those spurs 
which are upon that part of the branch made 
the first year after the tree was planted. 
The same practice is applicable to all spurs 
upon any other part of the tree, at a similar 
age and condition. 

Those buds upon the first year's wood 
which pushed into shoots, and were shortened 
during last summer, must now be pruned 
down so as to leave two fruit buds, as Fig, 
2. a, a. If there be not a growing bud 
situated near to the bottom, there is always 



PLUM TREE. 



173 



an eye or embryo of a future bud, and in 
that case the shoot must be cut off just above 
it, as at c. All the natural fruit buds, as 
Fig. 2. d, d, will be productive the ensuing- 
summer. 

Fig. 2. 




Summer Pruning. — All shoots which push 
upon those spurs that bear fruit, must be 
shortened down to three or four eyes, which 
will generally be to leave them about one 
inch and a half long; they must be thus cut 
down, when they have pushed about eight 
inches. If they require shortening again, it 
muse be done as before. It will frequently 
happen that there will not be any shoots 
produced upon some of those spurs which are 
productive, but fruitful buds will be formed 
instead of them, as Fig, 3. f, f. All shoots 
which are produced in future upon any part 
of the tree, may, during the summer be 
shortened agreeably to instructions given. 

Fourth Year. — Winter Pruning. — Upon the 
shoots which were produced on those spurs, 
that bore fruit last year, and were shortened 
once or more as directed, during summer, 



174 



TREATMENT OF THE 



there will generally be a fruitful bud or more 
formed at the lower part of them, as Fig. 3. 
a, a; such fruitful buds must be retained, 
and the shoot be pruned off at b. In ad- 
dition to those fruit buds, there will fre- 
quently be several more proceeding from 
the side of the spur, as c, c; all such must 
be left. 

Fig. 3. 




If a spur be destitute of fruitful buds at 
the lower part of a shoot, and instead of 
having them so situated, should have only 
one or two at the upper part of a shoot which 
was shortened last summer, as d, d, the 
shoot must be cut off just above the upper- 
most fruitful bud, as e. Those spurs which 
did not produce any shoots, as Fig. 3. f, f, 
must retain all the fruitful buds there are 
upon them. It will generally happen that 
there will now be fruitful buds formed from 
the embryos to which some of the shoots 
were cut down at the last winter pruning, 
as Fig. 2. c, they must be left entire. Such 
of the shoots as were cut down to a growing 



PLUM TREE. 



175 



bud last winter pruning, as Fig. 2. b, and 
have now a fruitful bud or more upon them, 
must be cut off just above such buds, as at 
Fig. 3. g, but if they should still be destitute 
of a fruitful bud each, let them be cut down 
to the lowest bud or embryo there may be 
upon them, as h. If a shoot proceeds the 
following summer from each one thus cut 
down, it must not be shortened to one inch 
and a half as directed for all others, but at 
the time when the other shoots are pruned, 
which will be about the end of June or early 
in July, it must be nailed to the wall in an 
horizontal direction as i, and an inch or two 
only cut off the end, as at k. The nailing 
of the shoot in this manner will cause it to 
produce a fruitful bud or two near to its 
origin, as 1, 1. This practice may be suc- 
cessfully adopted with all shoots it is desired 
to render fructiferous in any part of the tree, 
particularly with those which through a vi- 
gorous habit produce two or three shoots 
from the side of a spur, in which case one 
or two of them must be trained in, and the 
others cut clean away. In selecting those 
to be trained in, always preserve such as are 
situated nearest to the origin of the spur 
that produces them. It will sometimes 
happen that through weakness or an unfa- 
vourable aspect, the tree will push a great 
number of shoots and produce very little 
fruit, in the former case the wood is small 



176 TREATMENT OF THE 



and when upon any spur there is more than 
one shoot, they must be all rubbed off when 
about an inch in length, with the exception 
of one that is best situated ; and if there 
should be a fruit upon the spur leave a shoot 
above it; but in the latter case of an un- 
favourable aspect, the tree must be removed 
in order to effect the desired end. (See 
Chapter on the removal of large trees,) 

Summer Pruning. — This must be performed 
according to the instructions already given. 

Fifth Year. Winter Pruning. — All the 

spurs upon the first year's wood will now 
be well supplied with fruitful buds. In that 
case all shoots that pushed and were short- 
ened last summer must be cut clean away, 
as Fig. 4. a, a, except a shoot should arise 
from near the bottom of the spur, as b, when 
such a one should be left and pruned down 
to a fruitful or growing bud, as c. 




Those shoots that were nailed in during 
last summer in order to cause them to pro- 
duce fruitful buds, as Fig. 3. i, will now 
generally be furnished with one or more, as 



PLUM TREE. 



177 



Fig. 3. 1, 1, and 'Fig. 4. f, f; the shoot must 
then be cut back to Fig. 4. e. If a shoot 
should still be destitute of fruitful buds, let 
it remain its entire length another year, and 
then at the next winter pruning afterwards 
be cut back to the first fruitful bud nearest 
to the branch which it proceeds from. All 
the fruitful buds, as D, D, D, D, must re- 
main upon every spur. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be performed 
according to the instructions before given. 

Sixth Year. — All the spurs upon the first 
year's wood must now be cut down so as 
only to leave such a quantity of fruitful buds, 
as represented by Fig. 5. spur A, a, a. Such 
clusters of blooming buds upon so short a 

Fig. 5. 




stem I term lateral spurs. After they are 
thus pruned, let the first spur nearest to the 
origin of the branch, as spur A, if it be well 
situated, so that it can be brought to the 
wall without much force being used, (other- 
wise the nearest spur that is properly situated) 
be nailed close to the wall, and at twelve 



178 



TREATMENT OF THE 



inches farther on the branch, and on the 
opposite side of it, let another be nailed in 
as B. If that part of the branch made the 
first year after planting of the tree, should 
extend twelve inches farther still, another 
shoot must be nailed in at that distance 
from the second, but on the same side of the 
branch as the first, as C. This practice of 
nailing in spurs, must be pursued in every 
other part of the tree when they are at a 
similar age and condition. 

Summer Pruning. — Upon the spurs nailed 
in last winter pruning, Fig. 5. A, B, C, there 
will be a shoot produced from each this sum- 
mer; such shoots must be trained in betwixt 



Fig. 6. 




the branches, at the distance of four inches 
from the branch from which they proceed. 
If more than one shoot pushes from a spur 
thus trained in, all above that number must 
be shortened at the end of June, or early in 
July, to about an inch and a half, and this 
must be repeated, if required, as directed for 



PLUM TREE. 



179 



the summer pruning of similar shoots. Also 
all shoots which are produced upon those 
spurs which were cut down, but were not 
nailed to the wall, must be shortened as di- 
rected for the general summer pruning. 

Seventh Year. Winter Pruning. The 

shoots which proceeded from those spurs cut 
down last winter pruning, and which were 
trained in betwixt the branches, as Fig. 6. A, 
must remain their entire length. They will 
now be furnished with a few fruitful buds 
near their origin, as a, a*. The spurs which 
did not require training in, as Fig. 5, D, D, 
must have all fruitful buds retained, and the 
shoots which were produced and shortened 
last summer, must now be cut entirely out, 
or be cut partially down, agreeably to the 
previous directions. 

Summer Pruning. — During this summer, 
either fruitful buds or shoots will be produced 
upon those which were trained in last year; 
the shoots will require to be cut down once 
or more, to an inch and a half in length, in 
order to cause them to form a fruitful bud or 
two. 

Eighth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
upon those shoots trained in from the first 
year's wood, must retain all the natural fruit 
buds there are upon them; if there be a suf- 



* If more than one shoot was produced, (as described in last summer 
pruning) cut them down to the lowest bud, as Fig. 6. b, A. 



180 



TREATMENT OF THE 



ficiency without reserving any of those situ- 
ated at the bottom of a shoot shortened during 
last summer, let such be cut clean out; this 
must be attended to upon all the spurs which 
are produced on those shoots trained in, when, 
at a similar age, the only exception is as de- 
scribed on treating of the fifth year. I shall 
only describe in every year's treatment of 
those spurs upon the shoots trained in, that 
which is to be practised upon those which 
are produced on that part of the shoot which 
pushes the first year, the other spurs upon 
them must have the same treatment when 
at a similar age and condition. When the 
shoots trained in, as Fig. 7. A, B, have ex- 
tended so far as to interfere with the next 
shoots trained in on the same side of the 
branch, they must be cut off close to them, at 
which length they must afterwards be kept, 
as at c. Those spurs on that part of the main 
branch which did not require to be trained in, 
as Fig, 5. D, D, must have every other of the 
spurs cut down to two fruit buds, and the 
remainder to three fruit buds each. 

Summer Priming. — This must be attended 
tp in every respect as before directed. 

NinthYear. — Winter Pruning* — Those spurs 
upon the shoots trained in, must retain all 
their natural fruit buds : all shoots which are 
upon them and were shortened during sum- 
mer, must be cut clean away, providing there 
be four natural fruit buds upon each spur; 



PLUM TREE. 



181 



but if not, cut each shoot off to the lowest bud 
upon it. Those spurs upon the main branch, as 
Fig. 5. D, D, which were last year cut down 
to two fruit buds, must now be cut down to 
the lowest bud there is upon them, providing 
that such bud is not more than one inch from 
the origin of each spur, otherwise the spur 
must be cut down to an embryo, as Fig. 5. 
D, b. The remaining half of spurs which 
were last year cut down to three lateral 
spurs, as spur A, Fig. 5. a, a, must retain 
all the fruit buds there are upon them; and 
any shoots that may have pushed last sum- 
mer, and were shortened, must be pruned 

down to one bud, or be cut entirely away, 

. . . * ; ^ 

according to previous instructions. 

Summer Pruning. — If shoots are produced 
from the spurs cut down, let them be short- 
ened back to three buds, as frequently as 
required. 

Tenth Year.— Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
upon the shoots trained in, as Fig. 5. A, B, 
must be pruned so as to leave four fruit buds 
upon each spur; and the shoots which pushed 
from those spurs on the main branch, as 
Fig. 5. D, D, and that were cut away last 
winter pruning, and also were shortened 
during summer, to three buds, will now gen- 
erally be furnished with one or two fruitful 
buds, as Fig. 6. C, c. If the buds be plump 
and well matured, leave both, otherwise only 
one. It will frequently happen that instead 



182 TREATMENT OF THE 



of shoots pushing from the spurs cut down, 
fruitful spurs will have been produced, as 
Fig. 6. B, b, such must be left entire. Those 
spurs upon the branch which were not cut 
down, as the spurs B, C, Fig. 5. may now 
have four fruit buds left upon each spur. 

Summer Pruning, — This must be performed 
as before directed. 

Eleventh Year. Winter Pruning. — Every 

other of those shoots trained in from that part 
of the branch made the first year, must now be 
pruned back to the lowest bud or spur there 
is upon them, as Fig. 7. A, b. I adopt this 
method of pruning back, the shoot trained 
in, the first time, by cutting to a fruit bud 
or spur; but when a second renewal is re- 
quired, I cut the shoot down to an eye or 
embryo of a bud, as A, a; and at the third, 
to a bud or spur. This practice must regu- 
larly be pursued in future. If it should hap- 
pen, (but which will rarely be the case) that 
there is not any appearance of an eye, then 
cut it back to a bud or spur nearest its origin 
as before directed. The spurs upon those 
shoots trained in which are to remain, as Fig. 
7. B, must have four or five fruit buds each, as 
d, d, and the next (or twelfth) winter pruning, 
they must retain the same quantity. When 
the shoots produced by cutting back those, 
as a, b, Fig, 7. have come to a bearing con- 
dition the following winter pruning, the re- 
maining shoots trained in, as B, B, must 



PLUM TREE. 



183 



also be pruned back to the lowest bud or 
spur, as a, b. 



Fig. 7. 




The spurs upon the branch, as Fig. 5. D, D, 
which were cut down at the ninth year, must 
retain all their fruitful buds : and those which 
were not cut down, but last year had four 
fruit buds upon each, must now be cut down 
to two, and at the next winter pruning must 
be cut down to the lowest bud, or entirely 
away, as practised upon the others. 

This regular system must be pursued with 
all spurs similarly situated in every other 
part of the tree, when they are at that age 
and condition to require it agreeably to the 
instructions already given. When the shoots 
and spurs, produced by cutting them down 
in the manner described, have borne fruit 
for the length of time they were allowed 
to do before being cut down the first time, 
they will then require it again. My reasons 
for treating the Plum tree in the manner 
laid down is, that when nothing but spurs 



184 



TREATMENT OF THE 



are allowed upon the branches, the trees are 
not so fruitful, by reason of being too lux- 
uriant. But by allowing shoots to be trained 
in between the branches as directed, the sap 
is properly employed in the production of 
fruit. 

The portion of shoots directed to be trained 
in I consider such a supply as will moderate 
the sap, and check any tendency to luxu- 
riancy ; while on the other hand, the tree is 
not allowed to support more wood or fruit 
one season, than its general strength and 
health will allow, by which caution it is 
saved from weakness and ultimate unpro- 
ductiveness. The shoots are also at such a 
distance that they will not injure one ano- 
ther, but a proper degree of sun and air is 
admitted to the tree. 

By this practice a great many more spurs 
are supported than if main branches were 
only allowed, and they trained closer toge- 
ther; also the fruit in the latter case would 
be considerably smaller, than when produced 
upon such young shoots as it is my prac- 
tice to encourage and retain in the tree. 
When a tree has filled up its allotted space, 
the branches may occasionally be shortened 
back to a spur or shoot; this may be repeated 
as frequent as necessary, taking care not to 
shorten it more than one foot at a time. It 
will however at length be required to obtain 
an entire new head, which may be effected 



PLUM TREE. 



185 



by cutting each branch out to a shoot near 
its origin, or by wholly heading down the 
tree. (See Chapter upon Apples,) 



On Plums trained as Espaliers. 

The planting and mulching of the tree 
must be performed according to the direc- 
tions given in their respective places. (See 
Index.) The tree must be headed down at 
spring, and in order to form the head be 
treated as wall trees. If the trellis against 
which the trees are trained is made of up- 
right bars, (see Chapter on Espaliers,) the tree 
must be treated in every respect as wall 
trees are, only the spurs may be allowed to 
retain more fruitful buds than wall trees. 
The reason for such allowance is, that the 
trees have a much greater circulation of air 
than those against walls ; also the trees being 
trained more dwarf, will very well admit of 
it so as not to sustain any injury. 



Of forcing Plums. 

Where there is the conveniency of houses 
for forcing fruit trees, Plums may successfully 
be forced. If there is not a house expressly 
devoted for Plums, they may be introduced 
into any forcing house, by having them 



186 TREATMENT OF THE 



planted in large pots or tubs; which is in- 
deed preferable to having them in the border 
of a house constructed on purpose. The 
planting of the trees must be performed 
in autumn agreeably to the instructions 
given in the Chapter on planting and 
pruning, previous to planting, &c. When the 
trees are to be planted in pots or tubs, the 
soil must be a strong loam with a little mix- 
ture of well rotted cow dung. After the tree 
is planted, let the pot be plunged up to the rim 
in a border or elsewhere. The tree must be 
headed down at spring to six buds, and the 
shoots which push must be allowed to grow 
at full length during the first season. The 
second spring, the pots wherein the trees are 
planted, must be taken up out of the place 
where they were plunged; and if any roots 
have extended themselves into the earth 
through the hole at the bottom of the pot, 
let such be dressed clean off. This dressing 
away the roots that have pushed through 
the hole at the bottom of the pot, must be 
attended to in every future year, when re- 
quired. When the tree is come to a bearing 
condition, it will then generally require to 
be shifted into a pot or tub two sizes larger 
than that in which it was previously. After 
this removal, the tree will by judicious ma- 
nagement bear fruit for ten or twelve years 
before it will require to be potted again. 
At the second winter pruning, all the shoots 



PLUM TREE. 



187 



must be shortened to about two-thirds of 
their length, and in every future year until 
the tree comes to a bearing condition, this 
method of pruning back the shoots at winter 
pruning must be attended to. But when 
the tree has become productive, all shoots 
but the leading ones must be shortened both 
in summer and winter pruning, as directed 
for wall trees. The leading shoots must be 
allowed to grow at full length during sum- 
mer, and at winter pruning be left about 
one-third of their length. Always retain all 
short lateral fruit spurs. 

In introducing the tree into the forcing 
house, it should not be brought suddenly 
into a high temperature, but as gradually as 
circumstances will admit. If the tree be 
placed upon a warm flue, it must always be 
set in a saucer wherein a little water should 
generally be kept. Let the tree be regu- 
larly attended to with water, so that the soil 
never becomes too dry, as that would cause 
the bloom or fruit to drop off. Let manure 
water be given to the roots every third time 
of watering. Attention must be given to 
sprinkling water over the top of the tree 
once or twice before the opening of the blos- 
som, but it must be desisted from as soon as 
the blossom opens, and be applied again 
when the fruit is set. ( See Chapter on wa- 
tering the tops of fruit trees.) 

Plums are also forced in a house designed 



188 TREATMENT OF THE 



for the purpose, as already alluded to. When 
it is desired to have ripe fruit at any parti- 
cular time, begin to force the trees about 
sixteen weeks before. In commencing forcing, 
let the sashes be placed over the trees a fort- 
night before fire heat is applied. When fire 
heat is introduced, let it be so regulated for 
the first two weeks, as to keep the tempera- 
ture at 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and then raise 
it to 50 degrees until the bloom expands. 
When the fruit is set, let the heat be increased 
to 60 degrees. After it is stoned, raise it to 
65 degrees, at which it may afterwards be 
kept. 

It will be necessary to admit all the air 
that can possibly be given in mild weather. 

The trees will require watering at the tops 
once or twice before the bloom opens; but 
no water from the time the bloom begins to 
expand, until after the fruit is set; instead 
of which, let dews be raised in the house by 
pouring water upon the heated flues. After 
the fruit is set, water the trees over the tops 
every other day at least ; early in the season 
it is best to water in the morning, but later, 
in the evening. Desist from watering over 
the tops when the fruit approaches maturity, 
and if the season then be mild, let the sashes 
be entirely removed, by which a full admis- 
sion of sun is afforded to the fruit, which 
will be much improved in flavour. The 
watering of the border must be regularly 



PLUM TREE. 



189 



performed, if the border is not in a very 
moist state when the forcing commences, 
give it a watering of manure water, but no 
more until after the fruit is stoned, unless 
the border happens to be very dry. After 
the fruit is stoned, water once a week with 
manure water, until the fruit approaches ma- 
turity. ( See the Chapter on watering the roots 
of fruit trees.) 



190 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

On the treatment of the Cherry tree trained against a wall, also 
of forcing it. 

The Cherry thrives best in a good rich 
strong loam, upon a dry bottom, (See Chapter' 
on the formation of fruit tree borders.) The 
May Duke requires a richer soil than any of 
the other kinds. 

The tree must be a maiden plant, and be 
treated in pruning the roots, planting the 
tree, also in mulching and watering it, agree- 
ably to the instructions given in each separate 
Chapter. The distance at which the trees 
must be set apart is, for May Dukes twenty 
feet, but any of the other kinds twenty-four 
feet. 

All kinds of Cherries do best when trained 
horizontally, but as some sorts require a dif- 
ferent mode of treatment from that which 
suits others, I shall commence with the May 
Duke, dating each years instructions from 
the winter pruning. 

First Year. Winter Pruning. — Let the 

tree be headed down at spring to seven buds. 

Summer Pruning. — When the buds push, 
let the uppermost be trained straight up the 
wall, and of the remaining six shoots, two 



CHERRY TREE. 



191 



must be trained in on each side, and the 
others be rubbed off. As the side shoots 
advance, let them be regularly secured to 
the wall, but never shortened until they have 
extended to the length it is desired to have 
the branches. When the upright shoot, or 
lead, has advanced to sixteen or eighteen 
inches in length, let the top be pinched off, 
so as to leave it only twelve inches long. Of 
the shoots which p'jsh after the lead being 
stopped, the uppermost must be trained 
straight up the wall, and the next two, one on 
each side; all others must be rubbed off. 

Second Year. — Jf inter Pruning. — The up- 
right shoot must now be cut down to twelve 
inches from where it was stopped last sum- 
mer. The practice laid down of stopping 
the leading shoot in summer, also in pruning 
it in winter, must be pursued until the tree 
reaches its destined height. The tree will 
now be in the condition described by Fig. 1. 

Summer Pruning. — If any shoots push from 



Fig. 1. 



192 



TREATMENT OF THE 



the branches, a, a, a, <Xf Fig. 1. during this 
summer, they must be allowed to grow until 
the lower part has attained a woody state; 
they must then be cut down so as to leave 
four eyes; this may be repeated, if required. 
It will frequently happen, that instead of 
shoots pushing, as Fig. 2. a, some natural 
fruit buds will be formed, as b. 

Third Year. — Winter Pruning. — Whatever 
shoots were produced last year from that part 
of the branch made first year after planting, 
as represented by a, Fig. 2. must now r 
be cut down to two buds, c, c. It will gene- 
rally be the case, that one or both of those 
left will be fruitful, and productive next 
summer. All the natural fruit buds must be 
left entire, as b, Fig. 2. I shall only treat 
upon those spurs and shoots which are pro- 

Fig. 2. 



a d 




duced upon that part of the branch which 
was made the first year. All the shoots and 
spurs in any other part of the tree, require 
the same treatment when at' a similar age 
and condition. 

Summer Pruning. — Whatever shoots are 



CHERRY TREE. 



193 



produced upon those spurs which are now 
productive, as Fig. 2. d, they must be cut 
down to four eyes, as e. This practice of 
summer pruning must be attended to in fu- 
ture, to all similar shoots produced in any 
part of the tree. 

Fourth Year. — Winter Pruning. — All shoots 
that were produced last summer and cut 
down to four eyes, must now be pruned 
down to two buds, Fig. 3. c, c. It will some- 
times happen that a shoot will have pushed 
from a spur that bore fruit last summer, as 
h, A, and that only one fruitful bud is formed 
upon that part of the shoot which was left, 
as b, the other buds being growing ones, 
as d. In that case cut the spur down to e; 
this will generally cause a shoot to push, or 
a fruitful bud to be formed from an embryo 

Fig- 3- 




or bud. This attention to procure and re- 
tain a shoot or fruitful bud near to the origin 
of a spur, is particularly required in the May 
Duke Cherry, as the embryos of buds are 
not so rank, neither so certain to be produced, 

c c 



194 TREATMENT OF THE 



as in the Apple, Pear, Plum, &c. Therefore 
whenever a bud or shoot is produced near 
to the origin of the spur, as B, f, let such be 
encouraged by cutting away a part of the 
spur to g. And if the general instructions 
laid down each year for the treatment of 
spurs, should not direct such a one to be cut 
down at that year, the regular plan must 
in that case be deviated from, and such bud 
or shoot be encouraged as much as possible 
in the manner described. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be performed 
according to the foregoing instructions. 

Fifth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
must now be allowed to retain all the fruit- 
ful buds there are upon them. If there should 
be a sufficiency of natural fruit buds, let the 
shoots which were shortened last summer be 
cut entirely out, unless one has been produced 
near to the origin of the spur, as in Fig. 3. 
B, f, when such must be pruned so as to leave 
another fruitful bud in addition to that. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be attended 
to as before directed. 

Sixth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The spurs 
must now be cut down to two clusters of 
fruitful buds, as Fig. 4. A, a, a. I shall in 
future designate such clusters by the term 
lateral spurs, and the spurs upon which such 
are situated, as A, A, branch spurs. 

If there be two good lateral spurs well si- 
tuated upon each branch spur which is to be 



CHERRY TREE. 



195 



cut down as directed, let all shoots that were 
made last year, be cut entirely away, unless 
a shoot should proceed from near the origin 
of the branch spur, as b, when it must be 
pruned to one bud, as c. 

Fig. 4. 




a 



Summer Pruning. — This must be performed 
as before directed. 

Seventh Year. Winter Pruning. The 

branch spurs must now be allowed to retain 
three lateral spurs each, as Fig. 5. D, D, D, 
cutting entirely away, or retaining any shoots 
which were produced and were shortened 
last summer, as may be required. 

Summer Pruning. — This must be attended 
to as before directed. 

Eighth Year. — Winter Pruning. — The first 
spur nearest to the bole of the tree must now 
be cut down to the lowest bud upon it. This 
is done in order to cause a shoot to push from 
the part that is left, which must be trained 
in horizontally between the branches, and at 
four inches distance from the branch from 



196 TREATMENT OF THE 



which it proceeds, as Fig. 5. F. If that part 
of the branch produced the first year after 
the planting of the tree, extends eighteen 
inches farther than the first spur which was 
cut down, as B, let another spur be cut down 
at that distance from the first, as C, and ano- 
ther shoot be trained in between the branches, 
but it must be at the opposite side of the 
branch from the other, as E. This regular 
system of nailing in a shoot between the 
branches every eighteen inches, must be 
practised in every part of the tree when the 

Fig. 5. 




spurs are at the same age. Thus some spurs 
must be cut down, in order to produce a shoot, 
at the next winter pruning, upon that part 
of the branch which was produced the second 
year after the planting of the tree, &c. 

Those spurs that did not require to be 
cut down in order to produce shoots, as 
E, F, must each retain three lateral fruit 
spurs, as D, If such spurs D, D, are situated 



CHERRY TREE. 



197 



rank upon the branches, two or three of them 
may be cut down to the lowest bud upon 
them, as D, a; but if there be a good em- 
bryo, cut down to that, as 1>. This method 
of cutting in such spurs to two or three late- 
ral ones, in order to bring them to as close 
contact with the wall as possible; also to cut 
two or three entirely away to one bud, or to 
a good embryo when a spur is supplied with 
them near to its origin, as D, a, b, must 
always be attended to : but never cut a spur 
entirely down except it be a very young 
one, unless there be a bud or plump embryo 
to prune to, for shoots are not so readily and 
abundantly obtained from the May Duke 
Cherry, as from the Apple, Pear, and Plum. 
After a new spur obtained by cutting down 
as directed to a bud or embryo, has borne 
fruit five years, it may then be cut down 
again. 

Summer 'Pruning. — Those shoots that push 
from the spurs cut down, as B, C, mast be 
regularly trained in, and all other shoots be 
attended to as already directed. 

Ninth Year. — The shoots that were trained 
in last summer, must remain their entire 
length until they have extended three feet, 
when they must be stopped, as they will 
then have reached up to the next shoot nail- 
ed in at the same side of the branch. They 
must afterwards be reserved until the spurs 
upon that part of the shoot produced the 



198 



TREATMENT OF THE 



first year after being trained in, have borne 
fruit four or five years, at which period they 
must be cut entirely back to the first bud or 
spur nearest to -their origin; and the new 
shoot which afterwards pushes must be 
trained in and pruned as the first shoot and 
its spurs. The branch spurs which are upon 
the shoots thus trained in, must be allowed 
to retain all the lateral spurs there are pro- 
duced upon them, and cut entirely away all 
shoots that are produced on the spurs when 
there is a sufficiency of fruit buds without 
them. The summer pruning of all shoots 
produced upon any part of those trained in, 
as B, must be performed as directed before. 
When shoots, as B, E, have been renewed 
twice or three times, by cutting back to a bud 
or spur as before directed, each must at the 
next required renewal be cut entirely down to 
an embryo. A year or two previous to cutting 
away such a shoot, let another spur situated 
upon the main branch, be cut down, and a 
shoot be trained in so as to supply the place 
of that one cut entirely away. After there 
has been a renewal of spurs and lateral shoots 
trained in for such a length of time, that it 
is found expedient to have a fresh supply of 
main branches, this may be procured pur- 
suant to the directions given for that object 
in the treatment of the Apple.' 

Morella Cherry. — The best methods of 
training the Morella Cherry tree, is the ho- 



CHERRY TREE. 



199 



rizontal, or half fan method. ( See Chapter on 
training of fruit trees,) Train in the horizontal 
method when the tree grows very vigorous, 
and the half fan method when weaker. The 
fruit is considerably improved in flavour by 
the tree being planted against a south or 
west aspect, upon which it is advisable to 
have some planted, as well as upon other 
aspects. 

First Year, — Winter Pruning. — At spring 
let the tree be headed down to three or seven 
buds according to its strength. 

Summer Priming. — When the shoots push, 
let them be regulated as done to the May 
Duke Cherry, taking care that the branches 
are not nearer together than twelve inches. 

Second Year. — Winter Pruning. — The lead- 
ing stem of the tree must be pruned down 
to twelve or thirteen inches, and three shoots 
be trained in, one straight up, and one on 
each side. The practice of supplying the 
tree with branches, both in summer stopping 
of the lead, and at winter pruning, must be 
regularly attended to as directed for the May 
Duke. All those shoots that were trained in 
last summer, for branches, must remain their 
entire length. 

Summer Pruning. — Whatever lateral shoots 
are produced upon the branches, they must 
be trained in betwixt them, taking care that 
all such shoots are not trained nigher than 
three inches from each other. 



200 



TREATMENT OF THE 



Third Year, — Winter Pruning. — The lateral 
shoots which were trained in between the 
branches last summer, must now be pruned 
back, so far as to leave them about one-third 
of their length. The lead of every branch 
must be allowed to grow without being 
stopped, until the tree has filled its allotted 
space. 

Summer Pruning. During this summer 

fruit will generally be produced on the shoots 
which are trained in betwixt the branches, 
as .Fig. 6. a; but it will sometimes happen 
that a shoot or more will push instead of 
fruit being produced, as b, b. If there be a 

Fig. 6. 




sufficient space between the branches so as 
to have the shoots three inches apart, as 
many as will supply it, may- be retained, 
and nailed in, all others must be cut down 
to four buds when the shoots have attained 
a little hardness, which will generally be the 



CHERRY TREE. 



201 



case when they are ten inches long, as e; 
this cutting in of the shoots must be repeated 
if found necessary. In making choice of 
shoots to be trained in, first select the lowest 
one, as d, and then others best situated and 
matured. 

Fourth Year. — Winter Pruning.— All shoots 
that were trained in between the branches 
must now be shortened, those that are strong 
must be left two-thirds of their length, and 
those that are weakly one half. If any 
shoots pushed and were shortened as directed 
during the summer, they will now generally 
be furnished with fruitful buds, and must be 
pruned down so as to leave two or three upon 
each, as e, c, and at the next winter pruning 
cut them entirely away. 

If more lateral shoots push from the main 
branches than are required for training in as 
A, let such be cut down in summer to four 
buds, and at the following winter pruning to 
two, as B, f, f. Such shoots will afterwards 
make productive spurs, one every five inches 
may be retained, as B, B, and all others be 
cut entirely away after having borne fruit 
one season. Those that are retained and to 
be treated as spurs, as B, B, must always be 
kept as close to the main branch as possible. 
This may easily be effected, for they readily 
push out new shoots near the origin of each 
spur. Whenever any of the spurs ex- 
tend more than three inches from the branch 

D d 



202 



TREATMENT OF THE 



which produces them, let them then be cut 
down to the lowest bud or embryo upon 
them, as B, g. 

The system laid down for pruning all shoots 
both in winter and summer, also for pruning 
in, or entirely out, all spurs, must be prac- 
tised in every part of the tree. 

As the fruit is principally produced from 
the shoots made last year, a regular and suit- 
able supply must be retained in every part, 
and particular attention must be paid to pre- 
serve and encourage those shoots that are 
situated near to the origin of that which each 
proceeds from. When any of the lateral 
branches trained in, have extended as far as 
they can be allowed without crowding others, 
let such be cutback to a shoot near their ori- 
gin, for a supply, as Fig. 6. A, h. And when 
such a renewal has been obtained in this man- 
ner for three or four times, if a bare part of the 
branch is caused by it, let it be cut close up 
to its origin, and ii a shoot should not after- 
wards push from the side of where it was cut 
down, (but this will rarely be the case) let 
one of the spurs situated upon the main 
branch be nailed in, and a shoot be trained 
in for a supply. When a main branch is 
required to be cut in, it may safely be done, 
by cutting to a lateral branch as far back as 
necessary. 

When a tree is very vigorous, let a little 
more young wood be trained in than is di- 



CHERRY TREE. 



203 



rected for a regular bearing tree. This addi- 
tional quantity of shoots must not be trained 
in any longer than is required to moderate 
the vigour of the tree. 

Harrison's Heart Cherry tree, may be 
treated in every respect as the May Duke, 
only train in double the quantity of young 
wood between the branches, and after a 
shoot has borne fruit, two or three years at 
most, cut it back to the lowest spur or bud 
upon it, and a shoot which pushes from the 
part so left must be trained in as before. A 
spur may be very safely cut down in order 
to obtain a new one, as the embryo at the 
base of such a spur is certain to push. In 
regulating the spurs situated upon the main 
branches of the tree, let one half of those 
that have borne fruit three years be pruned 
so as only to leave one lateral spur upon 
each, and two years afterwards let such 
be cut down to the lowest bud or embryo 
upon them ; and at the same time that 
those are cut entirely down, let the remain- 
ing half be cut to two lateral spurs each, 
and then two years afterwards be cut down 
to the lowest bud or embryo as done to the 
others. All new shoots which push from 
those spurs cut down, must be shortened 
once or more in summer to four buds, and at 
winter pruning to two buds each; those will 
form the new fruitful spurs, and must be 



204 TREATMENT OF THE 



treated in every respect as directed for those 
that were taken away. 

All other kinds of Cherries may be treated 
as described for the May Duke. 

On forcing the Cherry. 

Cherries may be successfully forced when 
planted in pots or tubs, also as trained trees 
in a house designed for that purpose. The 
May Duke is far the best for forcing. The 
soil and formation of a border for a Cherry 
house, may be the same in every respect as 
directed for a border in the open air. The 
front wall ought always to be built upon 
piers, so that the roots of the trees can extend 
themselves beyond it. 

First of those trained in a house constructed 
for the purpose. The pruning and training 
of the trees must be performed agreeably to 
the instructions given for trees trained in the 
open air. The period of commencing forcing, 
must be regulated according to the time it is 
desired to have the fruit ripe. It will re- 
quire fourteen weeks to mature them by be- 
ginning the first of February; but to begin 
at the first of January it would require about 
sixteen weeks. This is not precisely the case 
at all times, as the general state t)f the season, 
by being cold and cloudy or otherwise, will 



CHERRY TREK. 



205 



make it longer or shorter. Never begin 
forcing before the last week in December, 
or first in January, and let the sashes be 
placed over the trees for two or three weeks 
before firing is commenced. This is always 
necessary, that the trees be not subjected to 
too sudden a transition from cold to heat, 
which would injure the bloom buds. Nature 
works gradually, and it is the perfection of art 
to assist, and not to thwart her operations. 
When fire heat is introduced, let it be so 
regulated that the thermometer be kept du- 
ring the night to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, allow- 
ing a few degrees more in the day time. 
This heat must be kept for two or three 
weeks; it must then be raised to 46 degrees. 
In a fortnight afterwards the trees will gene- 
rally be in bloom, when the heat must be 
kept very regular at 52 degrees. After the 
fruit is set, let the heat be raised to 55 degrees, 
and when it is stoned, raise it to 62 degrees, 
at which it must afterwards be kept; allow- 
ing four or five degrees more for sun heat 
than fire heat. In raising the heat five or 
six degrees in a fortnight, as directed, always 
let it be done gradually, by a degree in two 
or three days; only take care that it reaches 
to that degree mentioned in the time pre- 
scribed. During every stage of forcing the 
tree, admit plenty of air at every possible 
opportunity; but when the blossoms are ex- 
panded, be careful that a frost air does not 



206 



TREATMENT OF THE 



reach them, as the pistillum is very soon 
damaged thereby. At every other period a 
large portion of air may be admitted. 

The watering of the trees must also be 
particularly attended to. At the time when 
the sashes are first placed over the trees, if 
the border is not very moist, let there be a 
good portion of manure water poured over 
the roots; and this may be repeated again 
as soon as the bloom expands. When it is 
done the latter time, let the cold chill be 
taken from the water, by placing it for a 
little time before a fire in watering pots, or 
otherwise. This attention must be paid to 
the water which is applied every succeeding 
time, else a great deal of the bloom or fruit 
will drop off. During the time that the fruit 
is stoning, no water must be applied to the 
border, providing the soil be in a moist 
state. After the fruit is stoned and begun to 
swell, let water be applied as frequent as 
required, so that the border be kept in a 
proper moist condition until the fruit is be- 
ginning to change its colour for ripening, 
when it must be desisted from. The tops of 
the trees must also be sprinkled over with 
soft water once or twice after the sashes 
are placed over the trees, and previous to 
fire heat being commenced. After the firing 
is introduced, let them be sprinkled over 
every two or three days, this considerably 
strengthens the buds and assists them to 



CHERRY TREE. 



207 



break regularly and boldly. All water that 
is applied after fire heat has been used, must 
be brought from a stove or elsewhere, and 
have the cold chill taken off by warming it, 
if required. The water must also be of a 
soft nature. This is particularly necessary, 
otherwise a great portion of the bloom or 
fruit would fall off; as the season and fruit 
advances, this caution will be rendered less 
important. From the period of the blossom 
expanding to the petals dropping off, no water 
must be applied over the tops of the trees; 
but if there be a flue upon which water can 
be poured, this must be done morning and 
evening in order to raise a plentiful supply 
of steam, which will be very beneficial to 
the bloom. After the fruit is set, the trees 
may be sprinkled again once every day. 
Early in the season, let it be done in the morn- 
ing before the sun acts fully upon the trees: 
and later, in the evening half an hour before 
the sun leaves the house; at which time the 
house ought always to be closed, in order to 
confine in it a good degree of solar heat. 
Leave off watering when the fruit approaches 
maturity. When the blossom is fully ex- 
panded, if bees do not come into the house, 
let the sashes be opened for an hour on a 
mild sunny day when it is windy, this con- 
siderably assists the impregnation of the 
blossom. 



208 



TREATMENT OF THE 



Foiling Cherries in pots or tubs. 

The same attention to planting and head- 
ing down the tree must be used as is directed 
to be practised to the Plum. In pruning the 
tree after it has come to a bearing condition, 
endeavour to retain as great a portion of la- 
teral spurs upon each main spur as is directed 
for wall trees; also to cut in such spurs in 
order to obtain a renewal. And when the 
tree has extended to such a size as desired, 
it may be kept at that state by cutting back 
the lead of a branch to a shoot situated lower 
down, in order to be furnished with a new 
one. The tree may be headed down, when 
required, by cutting down to the lowest bud 
or shoot there may be upon each branch. 
The roots of the tree must be well supplied 
with manure water, pouring it over the soil, 
and not into a feeder as is frequently done 
by many persons to the injury of the tree, 
for retaining stagnant water to the Cherry 
will cause it to cast its fruit; but by a re- 
gular attendance the soil may always be kept 
in a moist condition*. In introducing the 
trees into any house for forcing them, let it 
be done as gradually as possible, by first 
placing them in the most cool part of the 



* Attention must be paid to watering over the tops of the trees agreeably 
to instructions given for trained trees in the Cherry house. 



cherHy tree. 209 

house, and afterwards removing them so as 
to suit the trees and other conveniences. 

Whatever insects the Cherry tree may be 
attacked with; (see remedies in the Chapters 
upon the different sorts of insects.) 



E e 



210 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

On the Apricot Tree. 

The Apricot requires a soil rather lighter 
than the Apple and Pear. (See the Chapter 
on the choice of soil and formation of fruit tree 
borders.) The tree should be trained so as 
to let the branches have an elevation to their 
extremities of twenty degrees; this may be 
varied according to the luxuriancy or weak- 
ness of the tree. ( See Chapter on training of 
fruit trees.) The distance at which the trees 
are to be planted apart must be twenty feet. 
( See directions for planting, mulching, $c. in 
the Chapters on each.) The tree must be a 
maiden plant. 

First Year. — Winter Pruning. — Let the tree 
be headed down at spring to nine buds. 

Summer Pruning. When the buds have 

pushed and the shoots are about six inches 
long, let the uppermost be trained straight up 
the wall for a lead to the tree, and the next 
two, as w r ell as the two lowest, must be 
trained two on each side the leading stem, 
training them at sixteen inches apart; all 
other shoots must be rubbed 'clean off. If 
the leading shoot should have pushed twenty 
inches long by the middle of June, let the 



APRICOT TREE. 



211 



top be pinched off so as to leave it seventeen 
inches in length, this will cause a few shoots to 
push from the upper part of it; three of them 
must be retained, the uppermost for a lead, 
and the next two, one on each side. But when 
the leading shoot has not attained a suitable 
length at the time described, let it not be 
stopped at all until the next winter pruning, 
when It must be pruned down to seventeen 
inches. 

Second Year. — Winter Pruning, If the 

leading shoot a, Fig. 1. should have pushed 
seventeen inches or more since it was stopped 
last summer, let it be kept at that length by 

Fie. 1. 




cutting away the top bud, or a part of 
the shoot, if required. But when it has not 
pushed to such a length as sixteen or seven- 
teen inches since being stopped last summer, 
let it then be cut down to the lowest bud near- 
est the uppermost shoots trained in, as b; the 



2 1 2 TREATMENT OF THE 



shoots, as c, c, c, c, c, c, must be kept at their 
entire length. The method already laid down 
in order to obtain a proper supply of branches, 
must be pursued, both as to stopping the lead 
or otherwise, in summer, also in pruning it 
back in winter until the tree reaches the de- 
sired height. 

Summer Pruning- During this summer 

lateral shoots will push from those parts of 
the branches produced last year. A regular 
distribution of those that are best inclined 
to the wall, must be trained in betwixt the 
branches, as Fig* 2. a, a. If the tree shoots 
vigorously f train them at three inches apart; 
but if weak, at four inches, so that in the first 
case four shoots may be trained in betwixt 
the branches, and in the latter three. 
Also when a tree grows vigorously, in addi- 
tion to the shoots trained in, a shoot well 
situated for a spur may be left every six 
inches along the branches, as Fig. 2. b, b, 

Fig. 2, 




such shoots must be allowed to grow until 
they are about ten inches long, when they 
must be cut down to three buds; this will 



APRICOT TREE. 



213 



generally be required about the first week in 
June. In selecting shoots for this purpose, 
retain those that grow most from the wall, 
so that in their subsequent growth they 
may not smother, or otherwise injure those 
shoots that are trained in between the 
branches, as a, a, a, a, a, c. In retaining shoots 
to be trained in, always preserve for one that 
which is nearest the origin of the branch 
which it proceeds from, as c. After that a 
proper choice of shoots has been made for 
training in, also for forming spurs, let all 
others be cut clean away. This regulation 
of the young wood must take place when it 
has pushed about four inches long. Those 
shoots that are retained must be allowed to 
grow in their natural direction, until the wood 
has got a little hardness, which will be when 
they have attained ten or twelve inches in 
length, and then they must be trained in or 
be cut down according to the foregoing in- 
structions. 

Third Year. — Whiter Priming. — Many of 
those shoots which were trained in between 
the branches during the last summer, will 
generally now be furnished with blossom 
buds, such buds are very distinguishable 
from the growing buds, being plump and 
round, also of a lighter colour, whilst the 
growing ones are small, narrow, and quite 
pointed, as well as of a darker colour. 
All shoots that are thus supplied with bloom 



214 



TREATMENT OF THE 



buds will require pruning, unless a shoot 
should have nothing but bloom buds and the 
growing one at the end, as Fig. 3. a, in which 
case the shoot must be left its entire length, 
as b, except that shoot which is situated 
nearest to the origin of the branch which it 
proceeds from, as a, when such a one must 
be cut down so as to leave it about three 
quarters of an inch in length, as c. This 
will cause it to push a shoot from the part 
that is left, without which caution there 
would not have been one produced in so de- 
sirable a situation, for it must always be 
cautiously endeavoured to obtain and pre- 
serve a shoot as near to the origin of the 
branch which it proceeds from as possibly 
can be done, both in the summer and winter 
pruning. Although some shoots may be so 
furnished with bloom buds, and only a grow- 
ing one at the extremity of each, yet it will 
very generally be found to be the case, that 
a shoot will be supplied with a growing bud 
or two near its origin, and also several more 
in various parts of the shoot as growing 
buds e, e, e, bloom buds d, d, d. 

The shortening of those shoots must be 
proportioned to their strength. If they be 
vigorous take away one quarter of their 
length, but if weakly, one-third, and in some 
cases one-half. Always take care to prune 
to a growing bud, and about a quarter of an 
inch above the bud, also to let the cut be 



APRICOT TREE. 



215 



made to slope in the same direction as that 
in which the bud grows. Those shoots which 
were shortened during the last summer to 
three buds as directed in order to form them 
into spurs, will now very probably be furnish- 
ed with one, two, or three fruitful buds each. 
If there be three, prune the shoot back to two, 
as f. If there be two and the lowest be a grow- 
ing bud, as g, prune it to one fruitful bud, as h. 
If there be only one, and it be lowest, as i, 
cut it down to that; but if it be the upper- 
most, as k, let the shoot remain its entire 
length, and the second bud, 1, will push a 
shoot next year, whilst the lowest, m, will 
form a fruitful bud; and at the following 
winter pruning it must be cut off just above 
the bud m. The regulating of these spurs 

Fig. 3. 




in future, must be directed to obtain and 
keep them well furnished with fruitful buds. 
Such buds will be produced at the lower 
part of those shoots that afterwards push 
and are shortened to three or four buds in 



216 



TREATMENT OF THE 



summer pruning, and to two in winter pru- 
ning, also upon short lateral spurs, as Fig. 4. 
d, d. When there is a sufficient supply of 
such lateral spurs, all the shoots which have 
been produced and shortened as before de- 
scribed, may be cut clean away at winter 
pruning, with the exception of a leading one, 
as Fig. 4. e, and one that may proceed from 
very near the origin of the spur, when in 
those cases they must be pruned as direct- 
ed before. After those spurs have borne 
fruit three years, let each be cut down to 
the lowest bud or to an embryo, for a new 
succession. If at any time there be a want 
of blooming buds, and the shoots which are 
shortened do not form any near to their ori- 
gin, a sufficiency of such shoots must be 
nailed to the wall, and be trained in hori- 
zontally or pendulous, which will cause them 
to produce blossom buds as desired. This 
caution to promote the increase of blooming 
buds must be attended to in all parts of the 
tree when occasion requires it. 

Summer Pruning. — As soon as the shoots 
have pushed three or four inches in length, 
they will require a regulation. There will 
generally be two, three, or more shoots pro- 
duced on the last year's wood which was 
trained in between the branches, as Fig. 3. 
a, b. The uppermost and lowest shoots must 
always be retained, but all others be rubbed 
off, or pruned clean away. When those that 



APRICOT TREE. 



217 



are reserved have attained about nine inches 
in length, they must be nailed to the wall at 
three inches apart. But when there is not a 
sufficient space between the main branches 
to admit of two shoots being trained in from 
every shoot of the last year's wood, so that 
the new shoots be at the distance from each 
other as stated; let the uppermost shoot be 
pruned back to four inches in length, and 
when it pushes again a few inches, let the 
top be pinched off so as to leave about an 
inch of that part which pushed the last. The 
lowest shoot must be nailed in at full length, 
If a tree be very vigorous, both shoots must 
be left if possible, so that they do not crowd 
and smother each other, which would encou- 
rage instead of prevent luxuriancy. The 
necessity of training in for a while, and after- 
wards shortening the uppermost shoot as here 
directed is, that if it was allowed to grow all 
the season, it would crowd the tree too much, 
also it would be exhausting the strength of 
the tree ; because when wood is not desired 
as before alluded to, such a shoot will have 
to be pruned entirely away at the ensuing 
winter pruning. But it is indispensibly ne- 
cessary to allow it to push as directed, and 
then be stopped, and afterwards to push a 
few inches and then be stopped again. Be- 
cause without a leading shoot the fruit would 
not ripen, but by treating it in the manner 
described, the fruit will derive every required 

f f 



218 



TREATMENT OF THE 



assistance from it, and the strength of the 
tree is thereby prevented from being uselessly 
employed, which would be the case if the 
shoot was allowed to proceed undisturbed. 

Fourth Year, — Winter Pruning. — The short- 
ening of all fruitful shoots must be performed 
agreeably to the instructions given last year; 
also as many must be retained as will furnish 
the tree at three inches apart. The shoots, 
as .Fig-. 4. a, which were last summer stopped 
at four or five inches in length, must now be 
pruned away, and all that part of the two 
year's old wood with it as far as to the shoot 
which is retained, as b. But if there be a 
want of wood in any part, such a shoot as a, 
must be kept, as g. All the natural fruit 
spurs upon the two or three year old wood 
of those lateral branches trained in, must be 
preserved, as c, c. 

Fig. 4. 




Summer Pruning. — -This must be attended 
to by hand dressing and nailing in, or short- 
ening any shoots as before directed. 



APRICOT TREE. 



219 



The instructions given for hand dressing, 
&c. in summer, also for shortening the bear- 
ing shoots, and cutting others entirely away 
at winter pruning, must be strictly attended 
to in every future period, and stage of the 
tree. Always encourage and retain those 
fruitful shoots that are nearest to the origin 
of the lateral shoot which proceeds from the 
main branch, as h. And when the lead of a 
lateral shoot has extended twenty inches or 
two feet at most, from the main branch, let 
all that part of such lateral shoot above the 
lowest one upon it, as h, be cut entirely away. 
But if there be a want of fruitful wood, a 
less portion of such lateral shoots must be 
pruned away, so as to leave two or three 
shoots remaining, as at i. 

When it is required to prune away a part 
of a main branch, it must be performed very 
cautiously, by not cutting farther back from 
the end than three feet, and also by pruning 
close to a shoot for a succeeding lead. 

Apricots are very susceptible of injury 
from pruning away any strong branches. 
It is therefore advisable always to prune 
back any desired part when the wood is not 
more than four years old. A little foresight 
into what would be required to be performed 
in a few years, will point out the time when 
to prune back a part of a branch. Thinning 
the fruit, or thinning the leaves away at 
autumn when required, must be attended to 



220 TREATMENT OF THE 

according to the instructions laid down in 
the Chapter upon each. 

Apricots trained as espaliers must have 
the same attention as is directed for wall 
trees. 



221 



CHAPTER XXV. 

On the Peach and Nectarine trained against a wall, also in 
forcing them. 

Peaches and Nectarines require to have 
a south aspect, and in cold exposed situations 
must also have the assistance of flued walls. 
A suitable soil for the trees is a rich loam, 
not so strong as for Apples and Pears, but it 
is better to have it rather strong than light. 
If it be a brown or yellow loam, it is prefer- 
able to a black or dark coloured one. When 
the soil is naturally a rich one, no manure 
must be mixed with it, except it be of rather 
too close a nature, when a little of well rotted 
vegetable manure and well rotted tanner's 
bark, may be trenched up with it, in order 
to make it lighter. Sand would render the 
soil more friable, but it would in proportion, 
impoverish it; but the manures directed to 
be applied, will make the soil lighter, with- 
out enriching it too much for the trees. The 
border should be entirely composed of fresh 
soil from the surface of a field, or any other 
land that has not been under cultivation for 
several preceding years. The soil should 
not be taken deeper than twelve or fourteen 
inches, and it ought to be procured eight or 



222 



TREATMENT OF THE 



ten months before it is designed to plant the 
trees in it, and be turned over three or 
four times; also well broken or chopped in 
pieces. The border must be fully formed 
for three months before the time of planting, 
so that the soil mav not settle much after- 
wards. Particular attention is required in 
the formation of the substratum of the border. 
( See the Chapter on formation of fruit tree 
borders.) 

I shall first treat of trees cultivated against 
an open wall: — 

The tree must be a maiden plant of the first 
year after being worked. (It must be pruned 
previous to planting, planted, mulched, and 
watered, agreeably to the instructions laid 
down in the respective Chapters upon each.) 
The trees must be planted twenty-one feet 
apart for a wall twelve feet high. This dis- 
tance will allow the trees to grow for many 
years without requiring to prune back in any 
considerable degree the leads of the branches ; 
which would be necessary (if the trees were 
planted much nigher,) in order to prevent the 
branches from intersecting one another, other- 
wise the trees would be injured threby. Also 
to shorten in any great measure the leading 
shoots of branches is very injurious, for such 
trees seldom prosper for many years after 
such a system is commenced. (See further 
remarks upon the subject at the latter end of this 
Chapter.) The best mode in which to train 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 223 



the trees, is the fan method. And if they be 
pruned and otherwise treated as directed in 
this Chapter, every advantage will be deri- 
ved which can be wished, or can be obtained, 
by any other system of training whatever. 

The tree must be headed down at spring, 
so that six buds are left upon it. When the 
shoots have pushed, let them be regularly 
disposed in a fan way by securing them to 
the wall. Attention must be paid to water- 
ing the tops and roots of the trees agreeably 
to the instructions given in the Chapters 
upon each. During the summer, lateral 
shoots will generally be produced upon those 
six which were trained in at spring, such 
shoots must be disposed of in the following 
manner: — If the tree pushes very vigorously, 
train in all side laterals, and rub or prune off* 
the foreright ones ; but if the tree be not very 
vigorous, only train in the two lowest late- 
ral shoots, and about five inches farther along 
the shoot, train in two more; thus proceed 
to train in laterals, and all the intermediate 
ones must be rubbed otf. This regulation 
must take place when the shoots are about 
three inches long, and as they advance in 
growth during the summer, let them be re- 
gularly secured to the wall. At the following 
winter pruning, the leading shoots must be 
shortened back about one quarter of their 
length, as a, Fig. 1. and the lateral shoots 
about one-half, as b. Let the cut be made 



224 



TREATMENT OF THE 



about half an inch above the bud, and to slope 
in the same direction with it. 

Whatever lateral shoots are produced upon 
the leading shoots of the branches during the 
second summer, let them be treated as directed 
for similar shoots the last year. The shoots 
which push from the laterals trained in last 
summer, as c, must be regulated when they 
attain two inches in length. If the tree shoots 
very vigorously three, and in extreme cases 
four of them must be left to each lateral shoot, 
as d, d, d, d. But otherwise only two, as e, e ; 
all the others, as f, f, f, f, must be rubbed clean 
off, and the shoot remains as g, g. When a 



Fig. 1. 




shoot does not push laterals in any part 
where wood is desired, let the end of such a 
shoot be pinched off about the middle of June, 
which will cause wood to be produced. To- 
wards autumn, let a few leaves be dressed 
away so that the wood and buds get well 
matured. ( See Chapter on thinning the leaves 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 225 

of fruit trees.) At the ensuing or third win- 
ter pruning, those shoots which were trained 
in from the lateral ones, as g, d, e, must be 
regulated. If the tree be very vigorous, three 
of the shoots, as Fig. 2. a, a, a, must be left 
and the other, b, be cut clean away. But if 
the tree be not very strong, two must only 
be left, as c, c. The shortening of these 
shoots must be according to their strength; 
if very strong, cut away only about one 
quarter of their length, but if of a moderate 
growth, take away one third, and if weakly 
one half. All other lateral or leading shoots 

Fig. 2. 




must be pruned as previously directed. The 
instructions now laid down are proper for 
the formation of the tree and of bringing it 
to a bearing condition, I shall therefore now 
lay down the treatment as proper for a bear- 
ing tree; and the selecting and pruning all 
shoots will be comprised in a summer and 

G $ 



226 



TREATMENT OF THE 



winter regulation. I shall commence with 
the summer treatment. Previous to the 
bloom expanding, the tree must be sprinkled 
over with sulphur and snuff. ( See Chapter on 
mildew and green fly*) If the bloom or young 
fruit require a protection from frost, &c. let 
a speedy attention be paid to it. [See the 
Chapter, protecting the bloom of wall trees.) 

The trees require two hand dressings or 
prunings. The first as soon as the shoots 
have got one inch and a half long. In doing 
which, always leave all shoots that have fruit 
at their bases, as Fig. 3. a, a, but all those 
that have not fruit so situated, as b, b, must be 
rubbed off, except the lowest and uppermost 
shoots, as c, d, which must always be left 
(with one exception hereafter described) whe- 
ther they have fruit at their bases or not. 



Fig. 3. 



d 




d 



If the shoot of last year's wood be from six 
to fourteen inches in length, the lowest and 
uppermost shoots must be left; and if there 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 227 



be no fruit at the bases of the intermediate 
shoots, they must all be rubbed off; but if it 
should exceed fourteen inches, in addition to 
the lowest and uppermost shoots, as c, d, an- 
other must remain in the middle ase, although 
it should not have fruit at its base. If there 
be one (that has fruit at its base) situated 
near the place desired, such a one must be 
retained in preference to one that is destitute. 
When a shoot of the last year's wood is only 
five inches, or less in length, and has no fruit, 
upon it, only leave the lowest shoot, as f, 
rubbing off all others, as g, g, g; but if there 
be fruit upon it, the lowest shoot and those 
that have fruit at their bases must be re- 
tained, and all others be rubbed off however 
they may be situated. The necessity of pre- 
serving a shoot at the full extent to which 
the branch of last year's wood is furnished 
with fruit, arises from the mode in which the 
sap is distributed, this being found to be con- 
ducted to all fruit and shoots so far as to the 
uppermost shoot reserved. But on the other 
hand, whatever fruit there may be above the 
uppermost shoot retained, it will generally 
drop off, because the shoot below it intercepts 
the principal portion of that nourishment 
which is required to the maturing of the fruit. 
Also whatever sustenance is received to the 
tree by the leaves of the new shoot, is con- 
sumed partly by the said shoot and by the 



228 



TREATMENT OF THE 



fruit which may be at its base; and what is 
not thus consumed, descends downward into 
the tree, and the fruit being thus deprived 
of another portion of its support, drops off, 
and though in some rare cases a fruit may 
survive when destitute of a leading shoot 
above it, yet it never arrives at a proper 
state of maturity, and is always of a bad 
flavour. After this first regulation of shoots 
has been performed, let those which remain, 
grow without any securing to the wall until 
the second dressing. 

It sometimes occurs that soon after this 
first hand dressing, the trees will be attacked 
by the green fly and thrips. Very great at- 
tention must be paid to destroy them as early 
as possible, in order to preserve the shoots 
and fruit from sustaining injury, which is 
soon caused by the biting of the insects. 
And if the shoots are seriously damaged by 
them at this early stage of their growth, it 
often spoils them so as to prevent them from 
bearing fruit the following year, by causing 
each to make several lateral shoots. (See re- 
medies in the Chapter on destruction of insects.) 
When the fruit has attained the size of large 
marrow peas, it will be necessary to look 
over the trees, and where there are two fruit 
situated together, one of them must be taken 
away, also any others that may be super- 
fluous, taking care to leave half as many 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 229 



more as it is designed the tree shall finally 
mature. ( See the Chapter on thinning of stone 
fruit.) 

When the shoots have pushed about four 
or five inches in length, let the trees be again 
looked over, and if there be any strong lux- 
uriant wood pushing forth, let such be taken 
clean away, unless it be in a situation where 
wood is desired, when in that case it must 
be permitted to grow until it is about ten or 
twelve inches long and then have the top 
pinched off, which will cause lateral shoots 
to push, this practice of obtaining wood in a 
desired part may be performed upon any 
strong shoots. The advantage of taking en- 
tirely away at so early a season, such lux- 
uriant shoots as are not wanted to remain, is 
very great. For when they are retained 
during the whole year, and then at winter 
pruning are to be cut entirely away as is 
the practice of many persons, a great portion 
of sap is thus spent in a useless manner; 
when by an early removal such loss would 
have been prevented and the sap have been 
usefully employed in strengthening the wood 
and shoots which remain. It is a practice 
too with many to encourage such luxuriant 
shoots until about the middle of June and 
then to cut them entirely away. Such a 
practice is attended with very bad conse- 
quences, for in the luxuriant shoot, the 
tree found ready means to employ an over 



230 



TREATMENT OF THE 



abundance of sap, but when the shoot was 
taken away as described, a sudden check 
was thereby given to the new wood which 
was situated near to the shoot removed, for 
the channels of such remaining wood cannot 
always admit the extra portion of sap which 
is so suddenly deprived of that, in which it 
was to have been expended; and thus the 
sap accumulating at the entrance into the 
shoots, chokes up the passages into them, 
and the wood being deprived of its proper 
nourishment, becomes stunted, -and if there 
be a wound or bruise near to such a place, 
gum will ooze therefrom, which weakens the 
tree, and is generally followed by canker. 
But by attending to the directions given, 
any sudden check is prevented, and the sap 
will be regularly distributed to the good 
shoots which are to remain as a supply for 
next year, and to support the fruit of the 
present year. For the vessels of the new 
shoots will more readily expand at such an 
early stage of their growth than at a more 
advanced season. The preceeding remarks 
apply to theoccasional luxuriant shoots which 
push in a regular bearing tree, and not to a 
tree whose established habit is luxuriant. 
( Directions for the treatment of a tree of the 
latter kind are given in the Chapter, on treatment 
of vigorous trees.) 

As soon as the fruit is stoned the second 
regulation of the shoots must be performed. 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 231 



Upon those shoots of the last year's wood 
which are from six to fourteen inches long 
the lowest and uppermost new shoots, as 
Fig. 4. a, b, must be trained to the wall, all 
the intermediate ones that were retained on 
account of having fruit at their bases, as c, c, 
must now be shortened down so as to leave 
three eyes remaining upon each, as d. If those 
shoots had been shortened earlier than this 
time, the fruit at their bases would not have 
stoned so well, and a great many would 
have dropped off: but being left until the 
stoning is effected, they greatly assist in that 
operation, and by shortening the shoots 
after the fruit is stoned, the sap is diverted 
into it and contributes to increase its size. 
Those shoots of the last year's wood which 
are upwards of fourteen inches in length 
must, have (in addition to the lowest and 
uppermost shoots) another retained about 
the middle, as e. Those shoots of the last 
year's wood which are only five inches or 
less in length and that had only one shoot 
retained, as Fig. 3. f, must have it trained in ; 
. but such of them as had fruit upon them, as 
Fig. 4. g, and whose shoots were on that 
account retained at the first dressing, must 
have the lowest shoot trained in at full 
length, and the uppermost one, h, must be 
pruned back so as to leave it about three 
inches long, and be trained to the wall ; any 
intermediate ones, as g, g, must be cut down 



232 



TREATMENT OF THE 



so as to leave three eyes as before di- 
rected. 

The reason for stopping the leading shoot, 
h, at this time is, that the lowest one, i, 
(which is to be retained the next winter 
pruning) may acquire that strength and 
maturity, so as to be productive the follow- 
ing year. But if the leading one, h, was 
permitted still to remain its entire length, 
and to grow regularly forward during the 
summer, the lowest one, i, would not attain 
the state desired. If the tree pushes very 
vigorously, it will be necessary to leave 
the shoot, h, its entire length, as done to 
the lowest; or if wood be wanted in that 

Fig. 4. 




part and the strength of the tree will admit 
of its being retained, it must be so ; but ex- 
cept in these cases the leading shoot must 
always be shortened back as directed. A 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 233 



new shoot will push again after the lead was 
stopped, when it has got about three inches 
long, the end must be pinched off so as to 
leave about half of that part which pushed 
the last; this may be repeated as frequently 
as required. 

The necessity for allowing the leading 
shoot to grow until after the fruit is stoned 
is, that it is very essential in contributing to 
the stoning of it, but after the stoning is 
effected, the shoot may with safety be short- 
ened as directed. When a tree is in a weakly 
condition the shortening of the leading 
shoots as here directed must always be at- 
tended to, whatever length the shoots of the 
last y ear's wood may be, the low r est shoots 
will thereby be strengthened and matured, 
also, whatever fruit there may be upon the 
shoot of last year's wood, it will receive its 
required support. 

All the shoots which are to remain and be 
trained in at this regulation, may be secured 
by placing small twigs across from branch 
to branch, those shoots at the extremities of 
the tree must be nailed in. At this second 
regulation of the shoots the fruit must also 
be looked over, and a suitable quantity ac- 
cording to the condition of the tree must be 
retained; a regular healthy tree to have one 
fruit every six inches, and a very vigorous 
or weakly one to have more or less in due 
proportion. (See Chapter thinning stone fruit.) 



234 



TREATMENT OF THE 



When those shoots which are trained in, have 
pushed so that they extend six or eight inches 
from the wall, let them be regularly laid in 
as before directed, taking care that they do 
not crowd each other, which would prevent 
the wood attaining to the maturity desired. 
Peaches and Nectarines are greatly improved 
in flavour by having the full influence of 
the sun upon them, therefore when the fruit 
approaches a state of maturity if it be shaded 
by leaves, let a few of those which hang 
over It be pinched off; also in late and 
cloudy seasons when the fruit does not ripen 
well, if there be the aid of flues, a little fire 
heat may be applied for a week or two which 
will facilitate the ripening of the fruit and 
improve its flavour. Fire heat is also some- 
times required to be applied in autumn, es- 
pecially in late seasons, in order to secure 
good ripe wood and buds without which 
resource in cold exposed places, it would not 
be obtained, the heat required for this pur- 
pose should be about that of new milk, 
and it may be continued for a few weeks, 
beginning about the first of September. — 
Thinning away the leaves in autumn in 
order to admit the sun and air to the buds 
so that they are matured, is a very essential 
part in the treatment of those kinds of trees. 
(See instructions in the Chapter on" thinning the 
leaves of fruit trees.) Remedies for those dis- 
eases which attack the trees during summer. 



BEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 235 

are given in the Chapter upon each. (See 
Index.) 

It sometimes occurs that the blossoms of 
the White Nectarine are defective from the 
stamina being destitute of farina, when this 
is the case, I always procure some fertile blos- 
soms from some other tree of the same species, 
and impregnate them by applying the farina 
to the pistillum of each defective blossom. 
(See the Chapter on Tear trees.) 

ff inter Pruning. — This must be performed 
as early in the season as the state of the 
wood will permit. ( See the Chapter on the best 
season for pruning fruit trees.) A judicious 
management of this part of the business is 
indispensibly necessary, so that not only a 
proper supply of fruitful wood be retained 
for bearing the following year, but also a 
foundation laid for that which will be re- 
quired in succeeding years. For if this 
be not strictly attended to by procuring and 
retaining wood as near to the origin of each 
branch as possible, a great portion of the 
tree would soon become naked and destitute 
of bearing wood; particularly so towards the 
centre of it. Such bad effects are very fre- 
quently to be seen in trees that have been 
planted for twelve or fourteen years, at which 
period they ought to have been in the great- 
est perfection. I have very often noticed 
trees that have been planted such a length 
of time, and some even less than that, which 



236 TREATMENT OF THE 



by a bad system of pruning, had branches 
near the stem of the tree destitute of bearing 
wood for two, three, and four feet; and when 
this is the case, it is with very great diffi- 
culty that a suitable supply can be reco- 
vered. 

The mode of treatment recommended, and 
practised by some persons, of leaving wholly 
unshortened at the winter regulation of the 
trees, all the wood which is retained for 
bearing the following year, very much pro- 
motes the naked state of the branches as 
before described. 

I have tried such a system of management 
and with all the efforts I could make, I 
never could keep the tree properly furnished 
with bearing wood for many successive years, 
because the leading bud always pushed a 
shoot the first and then three or four more 
near the top; and by the sap finding such 
ready means of being employed in those 
new shoots, the lower part was nearly always 
destitute of them. Not only is particular 
attention required to the obtaining and pre- 
serving bearing wood in the situations de- 
scribed, but also in retaining a proper supply 
for bearing fruit the following year. The 
distance which I consider best is, to have 
all the young wood trained at four inches 
apart, for when they are much nearer than 
this, the shoots crowd each other, because 
in summer one or two shoots are required to 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 237 



be retained for supporting the fruit which is 
upon the tree that season, as well as for a 
supply of wood to bear fruit the ensuing 
year. And when all such shoots are trained 
in, they exclude a due portion of sun and air 
from having access amongst them, from which 
cause the new wood will be prevented from 
attaining such a state of maturity as to be 
productive; also the wood will be much 
weaker, the fruit smaller, and insects will 
be encouraged by having so much harbour. 
On the other hand, by having the bearing- 
wood at the distance I recommend, the tree 
is preserved from luxuriancy which would 
be the case if the wood was much farther 
apart. 

In pruning a tree, always begin at the 
lowest branches, and proceed from the bole 
of the tree to the ends, branch by branch. 
The length at which the young bearing wood 
is to be left, must be varied according to its 
strength. Healthy bearing wood will gene- 
rally be about the thickness of a common 
goose quill, such must be pruned down to 
twelve buds, as Fig. 5. d, but stronger or 
weaker wood, more or less in proportion. 

It was directed in the summer dressing of 
the trees, that on every branch of last year's 
wood (of a healthy tree) which was from six 
to fourteen inches in length, the uppermost 
shoot, as Fig. 4. b, and lowest, as a, should 
be retained. If there should be a sufficiency 



238 



TREATMENT OF THE 



of space upon the wall, so that the new shoots 
be trained at the distance prescribed, both 
the shoots, Fig. 5. a, b, must be left; but 
otherwise only the lowest one, as a, and the 
shoot be pruned off at c. When both shoots 
are retained, all the short shoots which had 
fruit at their bases and which were cut down 
to three eyes during summer, as d, Fig. 4. 
must be cut clean away. Those shoots which 
were about five inches, or even less in length, 
and which had the leading shoot stopped in 
summer, as Fig. 4. h, and the lowest one only 
trained in for a supply, must now be cut 
down to f, Fig. 5. Such shoots as were up- 
wards of fourteen inches long, and which in 
addition to the uppermost and lowest shoots 
had another retained about the middle of it, 
as Fig. 4. e, must have two left if there be 
sufficient space, and be pruned off at g, Fig. 5; 
but otherwise be cut back to h. If there be 

Fig. 5. 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 239 



any short spurs, i, formed upon the two or three 
year's old wood which is retained, let such 
be preserved as they will be productive the 
following year. 

It will occasionally happen that a new 
shoot will have pushed from the three, four, 
or more year's old wood, as k, such will be 
produced from a spur, as i, or otherwise. If 
it pushed vigorously last summer and was 
stopped as directed in order to cause it to 
produce kind wood, let a suitable portion of 
its lateral shoots which have bloom buds 
upon them, be retained, and be shortened 
back according to their strength, all others 
be cut clean away. If the shoot did not re- 
quire stopping in summer, let it be shortened 
agreeably to its strength, whether furnished 
with blossom buds or not. If the retaining 
such a shoot as is here under consideration, 
would crowd those that are nearer the ex- 
tremities of the branches, let some of them 
be pruned down, so that such a shoot may 
derive every advantage from being allowed 
a suitable space, &c. 

In the pruning of a weakly tree whose 
leading shoot was directed to be stopped 
during the summer into shoots, as h, Fig. 4, 
always prune down to the lowest one, as 
Fig. 5. f. 

All footstalks of fruit, as e, e, must be pru- 
ned clean away. 

In pruning the bearing wood always 



240 TREATMENT OF THE 



cut to a growing bud. If there be a single 
growing bud, as Fig: 6. a, situated at the 
place desired to prune the shoot down to, 
always cut it off just above such a one, but 
single growing buds will not generally be 

Fig. 6. 



a 




found so situated; when this is not the case, 
there will almost always be a growing bud 
betwixt two blossom buds, as b, b. But 
always cut down to a single growing bud 
if properly situated, in preference to one that 
is between twin blossoms, because the groAV- 
ing one thus situated will not always push 
by reason of the bloom buds receiving such 
a portion of nourishment as to render it 
defective; but a single growing bud is cer- 
tain to push a shoot, unless an accident 
prevent it, in which case, prune down to 
one of those, being careful to notice that the 
growing bud is a sound one. Growing buds 
whether situated singly or between twin blos- 
som buds, are longer and flatter than bloom 
buds. It will sometimes happen, that short 
wood will be found to have only single and 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 241 



double blooming buds upon them, with a 
growing bud at the end, as c, but no inter- 
mediate growing ones. In this case if wood 
be not wanted at that part, the shoot must be 
left its entire length; but if wood be required 
in order properly to furnish the tree, let such 
a shoot be cut down so as to leave about half 
an inch of it remaining, as d; there are gene- 
rally a few embryos of buds around the base 
of the part left, from which a new shoot 
will afterwards push. When a tree happens 
to have a great number of shoots so supplied 
with blooming buds, one-half, one-third, or 
one-quarter of them must be cut down as 
directed, according to the quantity which the 
tree has, or the portion of new wood requir- 
ed. The necessity of cutting to a growing bud 
is, that at the ensuing spring a shoot may push 
at the top of that one shortened atwinterprun- 
ing, so that whatever fruit there may be below 
it the following summer, it may have its re- 
quired support from the tree, otherwise it 
would drop off or be defective in size and fla- 
vour. If a fruit of particular importance hap- 
pen to be so circumstanced, a bud may be in- 
serted above the fruit, by which nourishment 
will be derived to it, and it will be matured. 

With the view of having a leading shoot 
to every branch of last year's wood, some 
persons do not prune their trees until late in 
spring when they can more certainly dis 
cover which bud will push and which will 

I i 



M2 



TREATMENT OF TH£ 



not. But so many injurious effects result 
from this practice, that it is advisable entire- 
ly to give it up. (See the Chapter on the pro- 
per season for priming fruit trees J. After a tree 
has filled its allotted space, the leading* shoot 
of every main branch must always be pruned 
back to the lowest shoot upon it* 

When it is found expedient to cut back 
part of a main branch, let it be done very 
cautiously. Always prune close up to a 
good lateral shoot for a supply, and do not 
prune farther back than three feet from the 
end of the branch, for when a large portion 
of a main branch is taken away, the super- 
abundant sap accumulates at the entrance 
into the lateral shoots, and the bad effects 
resulting from it will soon be apparent. 
There is however a method which I have 
occasionally practised, when the great part of 
a main branch has been taken away, it is to 
open the soil at the distance of three feet 
from the bole of the tree, and then to sever 
in two one of the large roots, taking care to 
cut close up to a lateral one. The conse- 
quence has been that the tree was thereby 
kept in a more moderate state, and after- 
wards flourished as before the operation was 
performed. But it is much better to avoid 
the bringing about any necessity for this 
process. 

In pruning away a large part of any 
branch in order to make room for new 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 243 

wood, &c. let the branch be cut close to 
a good lateral one, which may succeed it, 
if there be not a good lateral situated as 
desired, let the branch be cut clean out to 
its origin, for when a bare stump is left 
it is a very rare case that a shoot will push 
from it, but it generally decays, and its inju- 
rious effects spread to other parts of the tree. 

Respecting the length of time a Peach or 
Nectarine tree will continue to bear fruit, 
it will be varied considerably, as the soil, 
situation, and mode of pruning affect it. But 
their declining state is generally indicated by 
an arm or two dying for two or three suc- 
cessive years. These defects will point out 
the necessity of a succession. Though such 
old trees may by proper pruning at the top, 
to a lateral branch for a lead, dressing of the 
roots, and replanting, be brought to a more 
flourishing condition than before being taken 
up, &c. yet they never do so well by a great 
deal as young ones. And to have good 
bearing young trees substituted in their 
places is far preferable to the replanting and 
otherwise treating old ones, because they 
will cover the allotted space much spoiler, 
and produce much larger fruit. The method 
which I practice is, when symptoms of a 
general decay appear, I procure some young 
maiden trees and place them in the spaces 
betwixt the old trees, or against a good as- 
pect in any other part of the garden. Those 



244 TREATMENT OF THE 

trees are headed down, pruned, and other- 
wise treated as already directed for young 
trees at the commencement of the present 
Chapter. If the maiden trees are planted 
between the old Peach and Nectarine trees, 
they must be placed exactly in the middle 
between the old trees. Previous to this the 
border must be trenched to the bottom and 
about two yards in extent, from the bole of 
the young tree, being careful not to disturb 
the under stratum. In trenching it, let about 
one-half of the old soil be taken away, and 
some new suitable soil be substituted in its 
place. Also mix with it a small quantity of 
well rotted cow's dung or vegetable manure. 

This trenching of the border should be 
done two or three months previous to the 
time of planting the trees. After the young 
trees are planted and begin to spread, a por- 
tion from the ends of the branches of the old 
trees must be pruned away, in order to afford 
sufficient space for the young ones to be 
trained. After the trees have been planted 
four or five years, the old ones may be en- 
tirely removed, and all that part of the border 
which could not be trenched previous to 
planting the young trees, must now be pre- 
pared in the same manner the other was, 
taking care to let the surface have an incli- 
nation from the wall to the front of the 
border, as directed in the Chapter on making 
fruit tree borders. If the young trees were 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 245 



planted at the first against some other wall, 
and have been trained there until they are 
in a good bearing condition, they may very 
successfully be removed and replanted in 
those situations they are designed to occupy. 
The border in which they are finally to be 
planted, must be prepared in the manner 
before described. In the removal of the trees 
great care is requisite. Let them be dug up 
with as great a portion of roots as possible, 
also with as much soil adhering to them as 
can be retained. Great care must be taken 
not to damage any strong roots or branches. 
( See the Chapter on taking up and pruning the 
roots of fruit trees.) The trees must be planted 
early in autumn, and be watered at the roots 
and tops, also mulched, &c. agreeably to in- 
structions given in the Chapters upon each. 
The pruning must be delayed to the follow- 
ing spring, doing it very early in March, 
(this spring pruning must only be allowed 
for the first year after the planting of the 
trees.) The young wood must at this time 
be pruned rather shorter than is directed for 
fully established trees. All Peach and Nec- 
tarine trees must be anointed with composi- 
tion every winter pruning, or as may be 
deemed necessary, agreeably to the instruc- 
tions in that Chapter. Remedies for the 
various diseases with which Peach and Nec- 
tarine trees are attacked, may be found in 
the Chapter upon each respectively. 



246 TREATMENT OF THE 



Of forcing Peach and Nectarine trees. 

Peaches and Nectarines may be forced 
when trained in a house designed for the 
purpose, or by having them planted in tubs 
or pots, and introducing them into a Vinery 
or stove. A Peach House properly con- 
structed, should always have the front wall 
built upon piers, whether there be trees 
trained against a trellis at the front of the 
house or not. Also if there be a flue running 
lengthwise of the house, it must be built 
upon piers, and so high that the bottom of 
the flue be eight or ten inches above the 
level of the border. This is necessary in 
order to admit the roots to extend themselves 
as far as they are inclined to do, without any 
obstruction. The border must be formed in 
every respect as directed in the Chapter 
which treats upon it; and the soil be of the 
same kind as directed for borders against 
open walls. 

If healthy trees that have been trained for 
three or four years, and are well furnished 
with wood, (as recommended for a succession 
to old wall trees) can be obtained, it is the 
most expeditious method of furnishing the 
house to plant such trees; but if such cannot 
be had for the purpose, let maiden trees of 
one year old be planted. They must be 
headed down and regulated in every other 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 247 

respect until they come to a bearing condition 
as directed for trees against open walls. 

In order to bring the trees to a mature 
state for bearing as soon sis possible, they 
must be assisted with a little fire heat in 
spring for the first two or three years. — 
About the last week in February, let the 
sashes be placed over the house, and the 
trees be then headed down, about a fortnight 
afterwards a little fire must be given so as 
to raise the thermometer at night to 50 
degrees, and in the day time as much air 
must be admitted as will keep the house at 
the same temperature. When the shoots 
push, let the heat be raised in the night to 
55, and by sun heat to 62 degrees; as the 
season advances, more air may be given, 
and the fire heat be discontinued at the end 
of April, also when no danger from frost is ap- 
prehended, all the air that can be given must 
be afforded to the trees both day and night. 

If trees are obtained that have been 
trained as described for three or four years, 
and are in a bearing condition, let them be 
taken up, replanted, mulched, watered at 
the tops and roots, agreeably to the instruc- 
tions given in each Chapter respectively. 
A little fire heat must be given at the first 
spring, regulating it as directed for the maiden 
trees. As soon as the sashes are placed over 
the trees, they must be pruned and the wood 
must be cut a little shorter than is directed 



248 



TREATMENT OF THE 



for fully established trees. This pruning at 
spring and cutting the shoots shorter, is only 
to be practised the first year. Do not let 
the trees be forced the first year with the 
view to obtain a crop of fruit, but they may 
the second year. Should the wood not be 
well matured at autumn, let a portion of 
leaves be dressed off; (see the Chapter on thin- 
ning the leaves of fruit trees) also a little gentle 
fire heat be applied in order to effect the de- 
sired end. The sashes must be taken off at 
the end of October. The regulation of hand 
dressing the trees in spring, of shortening 
the shoots in summer, also of pruning them 
in winter, and anointing them with compo- 
sition, must be strictly attended to in the 
manner laid down for those against open 
walls. The directions which are required 
for treating established trees, in addition to 
those referred to are the following : — 

First — Of Heat. — When ripe fruit is desir- 
ed at any particular time, begin to force the 
trees about eighteen weeks previous to it. 
Let the sashes be placed over the trees for 
two weeks before the fire heat is applied, 
admitting plenty of air during the day, but 
closing the house at night. If the roots of 
the trees extend beyond the front wall of 
the house, let the ground be now loosened to 
the depth of two or three inches, and some 
littery manure be placed upon the soil about 
eight or ten inches deep, and to the extent 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 249 



it is deemed the roots run. This is particu- 
larly necessary, because such a great dif- 
ference in the temperature of that part of 
the tree within the house and of the other 
part outside of it, would operate very power- 
fully upon the tree, so as to cause the fruit 
to drop off. 

Fire heat being introduced at the end of 
the second week, let it be regulated so as to 
keep the wall about new milk warm, and to 
raise the thermometer in the house to 45 
degrees at night, and about the same fire 
heat in the day time, but admit air so that 
by sun heat it does not exceed 65 degrees. 
At the beginning of the fourth week, let 
the heat be raised to 52 at night and to 68 
degrees by sun heat. 

When the bloom begins to open, let the 
fire heat be raised to 55 at night and by sun 
heat to 68 degrees as before. If the season 
be far advanced and the heat of the sun be 
now considerable, very little fire heat must 
be kept during the day time, only just as 
much as to allow you to perceive the wall 
or flue is warm. Were this caution not ob- 
served, a great deal of the bloom or young 
fruit would be injured by the intense heat 
caused by the sun operating upon the heated 
wall or flue. The heat last directed must be 
continued until the fruit is stoned. When 
this has been effected, it must be increased 
to 62 at night and to 75 degrees by sun heat, 

Kk 



250 



TREATMENT OF THE 



at which it may be kept until the fruit ap- 
proaches maturity. The increasing of the 
heat as directed, must not be done suddenly, 
but by two degrees in about twenty-four 
hours, because any sudden increase of the 
temperature operates very much to the in- 
jury of the bloom or fruit. Particular atten- 
tion is required to the regulation of the heat 
when the fruit is under the operation of 
stoning, so that it does not vary from the 
degree described for that period, either by 
fire heat or sun heat. 

When the fruit begins to ripen, let it be 
fully exposed to the sun. 1 consider it the 
best method entirely to take away the sashes, 
the flavour of the fruit will be greatly im- 
proved thereby. 

Second — Of watering the border. — If the 
border be not in a very moist state when the 
bloom begins to open, let the border have a 
good watering with drainings from the dung- 
hill. This may be repeated when the fruit 
is set and the petals have dropped off. Care 
must be taken that the cold chill is taken off 
the water applied, this may be done by 
placing a number of watering pots full, 
before a fire. Unless this caution be ob- 
served injury will be sustained, by causing 
the fruit to drop off: but during the time 
that the fruit is stoning, do not give any, 
unless the border be dry. After the fruit is 
stoned and begins to swell, let the watering 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 251 



be resumed and be continued during the 
season as the state of the border may require 
until the fruit begins to change, when it must 
be given up. (See the Chapter on watering 
the roots of wall trees.) 

Third — Of watering the tops.— Soon after 
the sashes are placed over the trees, let them 
have a good washing with soap suds; this 
may be repeated either with soap suds or 
soft water, once before the blossom opens. 
When the trees are in bloom, let no water 
whatever be sprinkled over them, but steam 
the house by pouring water upon the flue; 
(if there be not a flue this may be dis- 
pensed with,) for steam feeds the bloom. 
Early in the season the steaming should be 
done in the morning; but as late as April 
may be performed at evening half an hour 
before the sun leaves the house. After the 
fruit is fully set, let the trees have a wash- 
ing with soft water, of the same temperature 
of the house at night; this watering may be 
repeated every other day, until the fruit is 
near stoning, when none whatever must be 
given until that operation be complete; when 
this is the case, and the fruit begins to swell, 
watering may be resumed and be continued 
until the fruit is near its mature size, when 
it must be given up. Early in the season, 
let the water be applied just before the sun 
acts freely upon the house, but later in the 



252 



TREATMENT OF THE 



season at evening, about half an hour before 
the sun leaves the house, at which time the 
house must also be closed up. 

The thinning of the fruit must be attended 
to as directed for trees against open walls. 
If the trees be affected by mildew, attacked 
with the green fly, red spider, or any other 
disease, or insect, remedies are laid down in 
the Chapters on each. 

The winter pruning of the trees must 
always be performed as early as the end of 
October. 

All the kinds of Peach and Nectarine trees 
may be forced in tubs or pots. Young maiden 
plants prepared as here directed are the best 
for this purpose. Let the soil in which they 
are planted be a strong loam, moderately 
enriched with well rotted cow's dung, or 
vegetable manure. The tree must be headed 
down at spring, as is practised with wall 
trees ; and for the first three or four years, 
should be introduced at spring, into a green- 
house, Vinery, or Peach house, for two or 
three months, in order to bring the tree to a 
bearing condition in due time. If there be 
a border in which the pots can be plunged 
up to the rim, without damaging the roots 
of any other tree, let this always be done, as 
it keeps the soil in a more regular state of 
moisture. In pruning the tree -so as to fur- 
nish it with wood, and when arrived at a 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 253 



bearing condition, let the same directions as 
are given for wall trees, be strictly attended 
to, being careful that the shoots are so far 
apart that they may not rub against one 
another, which would cause the tree to be 
diseased. When the trees are introduced 
into a house for the purpose of being forced, 
let it be done gradually. If there be a green- 
house into which they can be removed for 
the first two weeks, it will be advisable to 
have recourse to it. They may afterwards 
be removed into a Vinery or other situation, 
by placing them in the most cool part of 
the house first, and then in a warmer, as 
desired. Let the trees be sprinkled over 
with sulphur and snuff as recommended for 
wall trees, also anointed with composition 
after the winter pruning is finished. 

When the trees are taken into a Vinery, &c. 
in order to their being forced, if there be 
the conveniency of plunging the pots in a 
border, this must be done, but otherwise let 
some well rotted cow's dung be placed over 
the soil at the top of the pot about two 
inches thick, and some ropes made of moss 
wrapped closely together all round the sides 
of the pots. The moss must be sprinkled 
with water once or twice a day. This will 
keep the soil uniformly cool, which is essen- 
tial to the obtaining a matured crop of fruit. 
Never let the bottom of the pot touch a 
heated flue. Great attention must be paid 



254 



TREATMENT OF THE 



that the trees be regularly supplied with 
water at the roots so that the soil be kept 
moist. Let it always be poured upon the 
soil, and it will descend to the bottom of 
the pot, but do not have a saucer under- 
neath to hold a supply of w r ater as is the 
practice of many persons ; but which is a 
very injurious mode of treatment to Peach 
and Nectarine trees, causing them to drop 
their fruit and to be attacked by mildew. 
The water proper to be applied is manure 
water, from the drainings of a dunghill or 
otherwise, to be used twice, and then once 
with pure soft water. This regular propor- 
tion must be attended to. Always let the 
water have the cold chill taken off by placing 
it in cans before a fire or upon a flue. In 
sprinkling the tops over with water the same 
attention is required as is directed for trained 
trees in a Peach house. When the fruit is 
stoning let the trees have a great portion of 
air admitted to them, otherwise the fruit will 
drop off. When the fruit approaches a ma- 
ture state and the pots are not plunged in a 
border, let them be taken out all sunny days 
and be placed where they will have its full 
influence, but they must be taken back 
again towards evening. This will cause the 
fruit to be of a much more excellent flavour 
than it otherwise would be, and where there 
are not many trees is very readily performed. 
After the fruit is gathered and the new 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 255 



wood has attained a mature state for bearing 
next year, let the trees be removed from the 
house and be plunged in the border of some 
sheltered and sunny situation. The trees 
must be pruned at the season directed for 
trained trees in a Peach house. 

Peach and Nectarine trees bear abun- 
dantly, and the fruit is generally of a very 
rich flavour, by being planted out as stand- 
ards in the middle of a house. The soil and 
border should be prepared, as already di- 
rected for open walls; and the trees must be 
pruned, watered, fed as directed for trees 
against open walls, also leaving the bearing 
shoots, so far apart, that they will not rub 
against one another. 



256 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

The treatment of the Vine, as cultivated in a Vinery or Stove, 
also as trained against a wall in the open air. 

When a house is appropriated solely to 
the cultivation of the Vine, it is very com- 
mon to train some up the rafters, and others 
against a trellis fixed to the back wall. 
When this is the case, it is necessary to have 
a border inside the house as well as outside 
of it. 

When a Vinery is properly constructed, 
it ought always to have a front wall, built 
so high that the plate upon the wall may be 
three feet higher than the general level of the 
soil in the garden. This is necessary in 
order to let the border have a slope of two 
feet from the house to the front. 

If there be no inconvenience arising from 
elevating the house as high as desired, the 
front wall may be built so high that in order 
to make the border its proper depth, it 
will not be necessary to sink deeper at the 
front of the border, than the general soil of 
the garden; so that when the' roots of the 
Vines have extended as far as the border is 
prepared, they will be allowed to proceed 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 257 



forward without any check, f See observations 
in the formation of Espalier and fruit tree 
borders.) 

The border outside the house ought to be 
at least twenty-one feet broad, five feet 
deep at the back part, and two feet six or 
three feet at the front. Particular attention 
must always be paid to the formation of the 
substratum, so that the border be well drain- 
ed. Let the substratum have an inclination 
of at least one foot from the house to the 
front of the border. A drain must be made 
close along the front of the building, and 
another at the front of the border to run 
parallel with the house. Other cross drains 
must also be made, the tops of these drains 
(which must be open stone drains) must be 
three inches above the level of the substra- 
tum. If the bottom of the border be natu- 
rally dry, after the drains are made nothing 
more is required than to spread about two 
inches thick of moderate sized gravel, or 
stones broken small, over the whole of it, 
which must be rolled to an even surface, but 
not so as to bind them too closely together. 
If the bottom of the border be wet, in addi- 
tion to the drains being made, let about six 
inches thick of broken stones, brick bats, &c. 
be spread over the whole substratum ; upon 
these lay an inch or two of smaller stones, 
or gravel, and let them be rolled to an even 
surface. This is a great deal preferable to 

L 1 



258 



TREATMENT OF THE 



paving the bottom as is advised and practised 
by some persons, for the small stones, &c. 
admit water to filter down to the surface of 
the natural substratum, and to run down to 
the drains : but when it is paved, the water 
runs along the face of the paviers, and a few 
inches of the compost next to them is very 
wet, which causes any roots that enter it to 
decay. After this is completed so that the 
overplus water can be conveyed entirely away 
from the border, the compost for the Vines 
must be laid in the space allotted for it. 
The sort of compost which I find the Vine 
to flourish the best in, is prepared as follows. 
One half of good gritty loam soil, the top 
spit of a pasture field which has not been 
lately cultivated far corn, or of a common, 
let the turf remain upon it ; one- quarter of 
well rotted manure from old hot beds, and 
one-quarter composed of lime rubbish, bone 
dust, old spent bark, and pigeon or fowl's 
dung. Let there be equal quantities of lime 
rubbish, bone dust, and bark, and about half 
the proportion of pigeon or fowl's dung. 

The soil must be procured twelve months 
before the time it is wanted for use, and 
must be frequently turned over and chopped 
in pieces, so that the turf may become well 
rotted. In turning over the soil, always do 
it on a dry day. The manurer and the soil 
must be mixed well together previous to lay- 
ing it in the excavacation. The compost 



VINE. 



259 



ought to be laid in the place alloted for it, 
three or four months before the Vines are to 
be planted in it, In filling in the compost, let 
it be raised a little higher than the wall plate 
to allow for settling, so that when it is finally 
settled, the surface at the top may be close 
up to the wall plate. This is necessary that 
no part of the Vine be exposed at the out- 
side of the house, as the Vines ought to be 
introduced through a sloping hole in the 
wall and to enter the house close to the under 
side of the plate. A border constructed and 
composed as directed, will last a great many 
years, and the Vines will grow vigorously: 
it will fully compensate for every expense 
and exertion incurred in its formation. A 
border thus constructed will do for an outer 
one to either a stove or Vinery. 

I before noticed that Vines are in some 
cases trained against a trellis, which is fixed 
against the back wall of the house. When 
this is the case, a border must be made inside 
the house, of the same kind of compost as 
the outer border, and the bottom of the 
border must be drained as the other; but 
the surface of it need not incline as di- 
rected for the border outside the house. — 
The front wall must be built upon piers or 
arches, and if there be a front flue (which is 
generally required) it must also be built in 
that manner, and the bottom of the flue be 
raised several inches above the surface of the 



260 



TREATMENT OF THE 



border. The necessity for building the wall 
and flue upon piers is, that the roots of the 
Vines may run without any obstruction. 
The time at which the Vines must be planted, 
is early in May, providing the plants are in 
a proper condition; but if not, it may be de- 
ferred until the end of the month. Those 
persons who have the conveniency of raising 
Vines themselves, may adopt the practice 
which I pursue, and which is hereafter de- 
tailed: viz. to raise them from single eyes; 
this is done by cutting in a straight direc- 
tion through the shoot about half an inch 
below a bud, and then cutting in a sloping 
direction about one inch above the bud; 
these planted in good rich soil early in 
March, fixed firm in the earth, and placed 
so deep as to cover the eye, then intro- 
duced into a stove, or hot bed frame, until 
they have pushed, will make strong plants 
the first year. When there is not the 
conveniency of raising plants, Vines of one 
year old, propagated from single eyes, 
may be obtained at most of the public Nur- 
series. At the end of February, Vines which 
are one year old must be headed down to 
one bud, and be introduced into a forcing 
stove. When they have pushed shoots about 
three feet six or four feet in length, let them 
be removed into a green-house of some cooler 
apartment than they were previously in, 
this is necessary, that the Vines do not re- 



PEACH AND NECTARINE TREES. 261 



ceive a check by their removal for final 
planting, after they have been thus prepared 
for two or three weeks, they may be planted. 
In performing this, let holes be made in the 
border opposite each place where the Vines 
are to be introduced into the house. Let 
the holes be made about three feet wide and 
about fifteen inches deep. In these put a 
portion of fine light compost so as to raise it 
to the height at which the Vines are to be 
placed. The Vine must have all the leaves 
dressed off which are upon that part of the 
stem which will be outside the house. When 
the plant is turned out of its pot, it will pro- 
bably be found that the roots are matted 
closely together round the outer side of the 
ball of earth. Before the plant is laid in its 
place, let these matted roots be loosened, so 
that they can after being planted, push di- 
rectly forward into the border. In placing 
the Vine in the hole, let the ball of earth be 
laid upon its side, so that the buds upon the 
stem are in the direction afterwards required 
for making an incision as hereafter described. 
The ball must be placed so far from the 
front wall, that five eyes of the new shoot 
lying horizontally upon the earth in the 
hole may be at the outside, the top of the 
Vine being introduced into the house through 
the opening in the wall. Let the Vine thus 
placed, be supported by a portion of fine 
compost applied at the sides of the ball, so 



262 



TREATMENT OF THE 



that it will be secured in the place in which 
it is to remain. The Vine must be placed 
so deep in the hole that the upper side of 
the ball be six inches below the surface of 
the border, allowing two or three inches for 
settling. 

When it is thus placed and whilst the 
stem is bare, let a slit be made below each 
bud, beginning about an inch from them, 
and making it up to the buds; the buds 
which are to be treated thus are those three 
that are at the low side of the stem, but the 
two remaining ones at the upper side must 
not be meddled with. In making the slit, 
cut into the shoot about one-third of its 
thickness. When the three tongues are cut, 
let a little of the soil be put between them 
and the other part of the w r ood, so that the 
tongue will form an angle of 45 degrees with 
the stem. After this is done, the whole of 
the Vine outside the house may be covered 
up with fine compost as before described. 
In making the tongues, be very careful that 
the Vines are not broken, as thev are verv 
brittle. When they are thus planted, let 
them be watered and mulched. The same 
method of planting Vines must be practised 
upon those that are planted for training 
against a trellis at the back of the house. 
The advantage of slitting the' stem in the 
manner described is, that a great number of 
roots will be produced from each tongue, 



VINE. 



263 



which consequently increase the number of 
feeders to the plant, and will contribute in 
a great measure to promote the vigour of 
the Vine. I have had Vines that made 
shoots the first season three inches in cir- 
cumference, and some few more than that. 

After the Vines are planted, let a little fire 
heat be given so as to raise the thermometer 
at night to 55 degrees, but by day admit 
plenty of air. When they have struck 
root, which will be perceived by the shoots 
pushing, let the heat be raised to 68 at night, 
and to 75 degrees by sun heat. The fire 
heat may be continued until the beginning 
of July, when it may be given up. As the 
Vines advance in growth, be careful to se- 
cure each lead to the trellis, that it be not 
broken, as it ought not to be stopped until 
it has reached the top of the house. When 
it has got to that extent, train it horizontally 
for about three feet, when it must be cut 
back so far, as to leave four or five buds 
upon that part trained horizontally ; this 
will strengthen the upright shoot consider- 
ably. If a shoot pushes again, let it grow a 
foot or two and then be cut back to within 
two or three joints of where it was stopped 
the preceding time. All laterals that are 
produced upon the Vine must be taken off 
when they have pushed about six inches in 
length. In doing this, pull them off back- 
ward from the bud. The reason for taking 



264 



TREATMENT OF THE 



away the laterals is, that the natural fruit 
bearing buds are frequently injured by their 
being left and pinched back once or twice 
during summer, as is the practice of many 
persons, so much so sometimes as to force the 
natural buds in a wrong direction, or even 
to destroy them by growing over. The rea- 
son of laterals being retained and pinched 
back as alluded to is, to prevent the natural 
fruit buds from prematurely pushing; but if 
the leading shoot be kept growing forward 
as directed, the buds will not either prema- 
turely break or be injured, on the contrary 
will be a great deal bolder, and produce 
much finer fruit the ensuing year. 

In pruning and training of Vines, I 
practice two methods. Under the first, the 
Vine produces its fruit principally upon spurs ; 
but under the second, upon long shoots of 
the year old wood. In pursuing the first 
method I have a much greater number of 
bunches upon the Vine, than in the latter; 
but under the second method, the bunches 
of fruit are considerably finer. 

The second method I consider the best to 
adopt, when Vines are trained in a house 
where there are Pine plants cultivated, be- 
cause by it, a much greater portion of light 
is admitted than can be done by spurring 
the Vines. But when a house is principally 
appropriated to the culture of the Vine, the 
mode of spurring is most proper to be prac- 



VINE. 



265 



tised, because they can be allowed to spread 
wider on each side of the rafters, and when 
spurred they require a greater breadth than 
on the other plan. Never permit them to 
spread over all the roof, although they be 
spurred; but always leave a space of twelve 
or fifteen inches up the middle of each light, 
so that the sun will be admitted in order to 
bring the fruit to perfection. 

I shall first treat upon those Vines which 
are spurred. The method of treating the 
Vine during the first summer which is al- 
ready laid down, is alike applicable to both 
the modes of treatment. I shall therefore 
commence with the first winter pruning, 
which must always be done in November, 
providing the wood be ripe, which will be 
known by its brown colour and the leaves 
dropping off. 

First Year. — Winter Pruning. — In pruning 
the shoots always cut about one inch above 
a bud, and so as to slope in the same direc- 
tion in which the bud grows ; the length at 
which the shoots are to be left must be re- 
gulated according to their strength. If the 
shoots are as much as one inch and a half or 
upwards, in circumference, let them be cut 
back so as to leave four feet in length of the 
new wood inside the house. But if the shoots 
are much less in circumference, let them be 
pruned down to two buds. As soon as the 

M m 



266 



TREATMENT OF THE 



Vines are pruned, let those that are long 
enough to admit of it, be loosened from the 
rafters, and be tied along the front of the 
house, as near to the bottom of the sashes as 
possible; also if there be Vines trained up 
against the back wall, they must be brought 
down as much as possible to an horizontal 
position. 

The border outside the house (as far as it 
is j udged the roots of the Vines extend) must 
be covered with rotted tanner's bark or lit- 
tery manure; but previously to laying this 
upon the border, loosen the soil to the depth 
of two or three inches, but not more. The 
mulch thus laid must remain upon the border 
until the latter end of May, when it may be 
removed. 

The advantage of having recourse to this 
practice is, that those roots which run near 
the surface are protected and preserved from 
injury by frost. And when the forcing is 
commenced it is of great importance, in order 
that the roots may be as much as possible in 
a natural proportion of temperature with 
that part of the Vine inside the house. No 
fire must afterwards be admitted into the 
front flue until spring; but if there are other 
plants in the house which require to be pre- 
served from frost, a little fire heat may be 
permitted in the back flue for that purpose; 
where it can conveniently be done, it is the 



VINE. 



267 



best to remove the Vines outside of the house, 
or to take the sashes away as soon as the 
Vines are pruned. 

The time of commencing forcing the Vines 
the following spring, must be regulated by 
the period at which it is desired to have ripe 
fruit, allowing sixteen weeks from the com- 
mencement of forcing to the ripening of the 
fruit; but the nearer it is to the period when 
the Vines naturally begin to vegetate, the 
more cerain is an abundant crop of fine fruit 
to be obtained. 

When forcing is commenced, if the sashes 
have been removed from the house, let 
them be replaced a week or more previous 
to any fire heat being applied; also if the 
border outside the house is not in a very 
moist condition, let it now have a good water- 
ing with drainings from the dunghill. If 
there be a border inside the house, it must 
also be watered at the same time. 

This attention to watering must be prac- 
tised occasionally, so as to keep the borders 
in a moist (but not wet) condition, until the 
fruit is better than half swelled, when it may 
be entirely given up for that season. If ma- 
nure water cannot always be had for this 
purpose, soft pond water may be used in- 
stead. As soon after as it is remarked that 
the buds have begun to swell, let a little fire 
heat be introduced, so as to raise the ther- 
mometer to 60 degrees. 



268 



TREATMENT OF THE 



From the time of commencing the fire heat, 
until the bunches of fruit can be distinctly 
seen, (which will generally be the case by 
the time the shoots are an inch or little more 
in length) the Vines must be sprinkled with 
water of the same temperature as that in 
which the house is kept. The sprinkling 
must be performed every day at morning, 
noon, and night. When done at the evening, 
let it be about half an hour before the sun 
leaves the house. The flues must also be 
regularly watered every morning and even- 
ing. Care must be taken where a flue is 
very hot and near to the Vines, that no water 
is poured there at such a time, as the steam 
arising from such places would probably scald 
the Vines. 

As soon as all the buds upon the Vines 
have broken, let the Vines be tied up the 
rafters of the house, and the heat be then 
increased to 65 degrees. In increasing the 
heat of the house at any period of forcing, 
let it be done as gradually as possible, by a 
degree or two in a day. After the Vines are 
tied up the rafters as directed, they must 
only be sprinkled twice a week until the 
bunches come into bloom, when it must be 
entirely given up, but must be resumed after 
the berries are set, by sprinkling twice a 
week until the berries are about -half the size 
they will attain to, when it must be given 
up, otherwise they would be affected by 



VINE. 



269 



mildew. The steaming of the house must 
be at this time regularly attended to morn- 
ing and evening, although the sprinkling be 
given up ; and it must be continued until 
the berries begin to change colour. 

It will generally be the case that two or 
more bunches of fruit will shew from every 
bud, but only one must be permitted to re- 
main. Whatever fruit is shewn upon the 
uppermost shoot must be pinched off', unless 
the Vine be very vigorous, in which case it 
may be left as in the other shoots. In 
making choice of a bunch to remain, the 
lowest one is generally the best. When the 
shoots upon which fruit is retained, have 
pushed forth so that two joints can be dis- 
tinctly seen above the bunch, the top of the 
shoot must be pinched off just above the 
second joint, in order to divert the course of 
the sap into the bunch of fruit; if a shoot 
should push again from the top of the one 
thus stopped, let it be pinched back to its 
origin when it has got about six or eight 
inches long. After this second stopping it 
will rarely be necessary to be repeated, the 
fruit being then so increased in size as to 
require a great portion of support. Great 
care must be taken that the leaf, (which is 
at the joint from which the bunch is pro- 
duced) is not damaged, for if it be, the fruit 
will be injured. 

The necessity of stopping the shoot two 



270 



TREATMENT OF THE 



joints above the bunch is, that the sap, when 
required, may have a channel to expend it- 
self without causing any of the buds below 
the bunch of fruit to break this season, which 
would frequently be the case in vigorous 
Vines if the shoot was stopped at the bunch, 
which is the practice of some persons; but 
by stopping it as directed, a mean is pro- 
vided to prevent the premature breaking of 
the buds below the fruit, whilst the part of 
the shoot retained above the bunch is not an 
incumbrance productive of any injury to the 
Vine or fruit whatever. When the bunches 
come into bloom, the temperature of the 
house must be increased to 70 fire heat, 
and 75 degrees sun heat, admitting as great 
a quantity of air in mild days as possible, 
so as to regulate the house as described. 
This temperature of heat must be afterwards 
kept until the early part of June, when fire 
heat may be given up, except a little occa- 
sionally, to dry up any damp. 

The thinning of the berries must take 
place as early as possible, doing it when they 
are the size of vetches, or small garden peas. 
In doing this, great care must be taken that 
the berries which are to remain, and the 
stalks which support them, are not injured 
by the scissors, with which the thinning is 
performed. A regular distribution of berries 
in every part of the bunch must be left. The 
distance at which they are permitted to re- 



VINE. 



271 



main, must be varied according to the sort 
of Grape; those sorts which produce small 
berries, must be left the rankest. Those 
bunches which have shoulders (such as the 
Black Hamburgh and others) must have 
them supported to the Vine or trellis, pre- 
vious to thinning, by small strands of matt- 
ing. This gives a great advantage to the 
swelling of the berries, and secures them 
from getting mouldy. All laterals orclaspers 
which are produced, must be taken away, 
leaving about one inch of each clasper, but 
taking the laterals entirely away. 

The uppermost shoot must be trained up 
to the top of the house and then in an hori- 
zontal direction for a few feet; it must then 
be stopped agreeably to the instructions 
given for the first year. 

Those Vines which were cut down to two 
buds at the winter pruning must be regulated 
in the following manner. If both the buds 
pushed a strong shoot each, let the upper- 
most be taken clean away, and the other 
be trained up the house, and afterwards 
treated as directed for young Vines the first 
year after being planted. At the following- 
winter pruning the Vine must be shortened 
back to four feet, and in its future treatment 
be regulated agreeably to directions given 
for the other Vines which were allowed to 
remain four feet long at the first winter pru- 
ning. 



272 



TREATMENT OF THE 



Second Year. — Winter Pruning. When 

the Vines are pruned at this time, the lateral 
shoots, which will hereafter be denominated 
spurs, must be cut down to two buds, as 
Fig. L a, a, a. By shortening those spurs 
so much as directed, the Vine is kept in a 
vigorous state, and the bunches of fruit will 
be considerably larger than if they were left 
longer. But it is necessary to leave two 
buds upon each spur, for it sometimes hap- 
pens that one of the buds will not shew fruit 
well, or may be damaged, but by reserving 
two, a supply is more certain. The leading- 
shoot of the Vine must be pruned back so as 
to leave five or six feet in length of the last 
summer's wood. This must be regulated 
according to the length of the rafters. If 

Fig. 1. 




the Vines are to be trained to the length of 
fourteen feet, it must now be pruned to five 
feet, and the year following to five feet more, 
when it will be at its desired extent. If the 



VINE. 



273 



extent at which the Vines are to be trained 
be as much as seventeen or eighteen feet, let 
the leading shoot be pruned so that it may 
have a regular proportion left each year, and 
so as to reach one foot from the top of the 
house at the fourth winter pruning. At 
which length the Vine must in future be al- 
lowed to bear fruit. Any loose bark which 
there may be upon the Vine at winter pru- 
ning, must be peeled off. Also the Vines must 
be anointed with the proper composition. 
(See Index.) 

After this is done, the Vines must be 
brought down to an horizontal position as 
before. The bringing down of the Vines to 
this direction must be attended to so long 
as they will admit of it, as it greatly as- 
sists the regular breaking of the buds at 
spring. The directions given for forcing are 
those proper to be pursued in every succeed- 
ing year. 

When the buds upon the spurs, a, a, a, 
have broken, and shew good bunches of fruit, 
one only must be left to each shoot. If the 
uppermost bud does not shew fruit, let it be 
taken entirely aw r ay; but if the uppermost 
bud shews fruit and the lowest one does not, 
both of them must be retained. 

The directions already given for stopping 
the shoots, taking away claspers, laterals, &c. 
must be attended to in every succeeding 
year. 

N n 



274 



TREATMENT OF THE 



Third Year. Winter Fruning. Those 

spurs which had two shoots retained upon 
each during the last summer, must now have 
only the lowest retained, and each spur must 
be pruned off, as Fig. 2. a, a. The shoot, b, 
must also be cut down to two buds. This 
attention to keep each spur supplied with 
bearing wood as near to the main stem of 
the Vine as possible, must in every future 
pruning be strictly pursued. The leading 
shoot must now be cut off agreeably to pre- 
vious instructions. 

Fig. 2. 




When the Vine comes to bear upon spurs 
quite to the top of the house, the leading- 
shoot must be stopped in summer, and also 
pruned back in winter, in the same manner 
as is practised upon the spurs. When the 
top of the house becomes crowded, a portion 
must be taken from the end of the Vine by 



VINE. 



275 



cutting away two or three feet of the old 
wood, and replacing it by a new shoot. 

When the Vines have been under this 
mode of training and pruning for ten or twelve 
years, the spurs will generally be rugged 
and longer than would be sightly or bene- 
ficial to the Vines, a renewal of w r ood will 
then be required. But this may in many 
cases be retarded for several years, for it will 
very frequently happen that upon the oldest 
wood of the spurs several buds will break, 
as well as the two buds reserved upon the 
shoot of last year's wood. When shoots are 
so produced upon the old wood, let all be 
rubbed off to one good strong one, when they 
are about two inches in length. The one 
retained must be allowed to grow to fourteen 
or sixteen inches in length when it must be 
stopped, and afterwards kept at that length. 
When such spurs as are furnished with a shoot 
as described, are pruned at the following win- 
ter, all that part of each spur above where 
the new shoot arises, must be cut clean away, 
and the new shoot be pruned to two buds 
as directed for the other spurs. 

However, when it is found necessary to 
have an entire new head, this is best effected 
by wholly cutting down the Vine, so as only 
to leave two or three buds inside the house. 
There are generally plenty of such buds situ- 
ated upon the old wood at the bottom of the 
Vine. This practice is far preferable to that 



276 



TREATMENT OF THE 



of training up a shoot from the bottom a 
year or two previous to the time it is design- 
ed to cut down the Vine; for in that case 
the shoot cannot always attain sufficient 
strength to enable it to produce fruit as it 
ought to do for the first year or two after 
heading down, by reason of having to support 
spurs and fruit at the same time the shoot is 
coming on, and upon which you are to de- 
pend for a supply. But when the Vine is 
cut entirely down, it will make a vigorous 
shoot which will bear abundantly the second 
year. In pruning the shoot produced by 
heading down, let it be cut at the first win- 
ter pruning, so as to leave it six or seven 
feet long; and at the second winter pruning 
in proportion to its strength : the future 
treatment of them must be as directed for 
young Vines. 

The other mode of treating Vines which 
are cultivated in a stove, (before alluded to) 
is according to the following manner: — 

The Vines are planted in the manner al- 
ready described, and the treatment of them 
for the first summer is in every respect as 
for Vines trained to bear upon spurs. 

First Year, Winter Pruning. — It will 

occasionally happen that some of the Vines 
will grow a great deal more vigorously than 
others. In pruning them at this time they 
must be treated according to their strength. 
If the shoots be so strong as to be two inches 



VINE. 



277 



in circumference, let them be shortened so 
that four feet of each shoot remains inside 
the house. But if the shoots be much less 
than two inches in circumference let them 
be cut down so that only two buds be left 
upon each Vine inside the house. After 
being thus pruned, the Vines will require in 
every other particular the treatment before 
directed. 

When the Vines push at spring, those 
which were pruned to four feet in length 
may be allowed to bear fruit this summer; 
but those which were cut down to two buds 
must not be permitted to bear any until the 
third summer from planting. 

Upon those Vines which are to bear fruit, 
every bud will generally shew two or more 
bunches; but only one to each bud must be 
suffered to remain, with the exception of the 
uppermost and lowest shoots upon the Vine, 
both of which must be entirely divested of 
any fruit which may be upon them, as they 
are to be trained, in order to furnish wood 
to bear another season. The uppermost 
shoot must be allowed to grow to the top of 
the house and a little in an horizontal man- 
ner, and then must be stopped as directed 
before. The lowest shoot must be permitted 
to grow to the length of seven feet, and must 
then be stopped by cutting off the top so far 
back as to leave it only five feet long. By 
cutting the shoot so far back, it will be con- 



278 



TREATMENT OF THE 



siderably more strengthened than if the top 
of the shoot had been pinched off when it had 
reached the length of five feet; because in 
the former case, the wood having attained a 
little hardness, the buds will not push a new 
shoot so soon as where the shoot is very ten- 
der, as in the latter case; thus a greater space 
of time is afforded for the strengthening of 
the shoot. The shoot thus stopped must be 
kept at this length by stopping the new shoot 
after it has pushed a few inches; this must 
be repeated as frequently as required. Those 
shoots which are allowed to bear fruit must 
be stopped at the second joint above the 
bunch as soon as two joints can be distinctly 
seen, and when they push again, they must 
be permitted to grow a few inches and then 
be pinched back so as to leave one bud upon 
that part of the shoot which pushed the last; 
this must be. repeated as frequently as re- 
quired. Those shoots must regularly be tied 
up to the main stem of the Vine, so that they 
may not crowd each other, and on the other 
hand, not shade more than can be helped 
such trees or plants as may be underneath 
them. All claspers and laterals must be 
taken off in the manner already described. 

If both the buds pushed a shoot of those 
Vines which were last winter pruning cut 
down to two buds, let the uppermost be 
stripped off, and the lower one be trained up 
the rafter; and afterwards treated in every 



VINE. 



279 



respect as directed for those which pushed 
vigorously the first year after being planted. 

Second Year. — J} inter Pruning. — Let the 
leading shoot of those Vines which produced 
fruit be shortened, so that six feet of the 
wood made last summer be left, as Fig. 3. a. 
The lowest shoot must be pruned down to 
four feet, as b, which will be opposite to 
where the leading shoot was cut to the first 
winter pruning. By shortening the shoots 
as here directed, all the buds will generally 
push strong shoots, and shew good bunches 
of fruit the spring following; whereas if they 
had been left two or three feet longer, it 
would be uncertain whether some of the 



Fig. 3. 




buds at the lower part would push shoots, 
which if they did, would be weakly. But 
every desired advantage both as to fruit and 
wood is obtained, by pursuing the directions 
given. All those lateral shoots which pro- 



280 



TREATMENT OF THE 



duced fruit, as c, d, must be cut clean away 
to the stem which they proceed from. 

The following summer the Vines will bear 
fruit for the length of ten feet, and two 
bunches of fruit may be allowed upon each 
bud, all others must be pinched off. Each 
uppermost new shoot upon the shoots, a, b, of 
the last year's wood, must not be permitted to 
retain any fruit whatever, but the uppermost 
new shoot upon the shoot a, must be trained 
to the top of the house and be stopped as 
before directed. Also the uppermost new 
shoot upon the shoot b, must be allowed to 
grow to nine feet in length, and then be 
stopped by cutting away two feet off' the 
end, at which length it must afterwards be 
kept during summer. It will generally 
happen that there will be several buds break 
from the oldest wood of the Vine, and very 
near to the bottom, in which case a shoot 
must be retained and trained up at the oppo- 
site side the main stem of the Vine to the 
shoot b, all ot^ser shoots which arise near to 
the origin of this must be rubbed off when 
about one or^gpwo inches long. If a shoot 
does not proceed from the old wood, the 
lowest new shoot upon the Vine must be 
trained in for the same purpose. This shoot 
must be allowed to grow about seven feet 
long; and then be stopped by cutting off the 
top to live feet, as before directed to the low- 
est shoot last year. 



VINE. 



281 



Third Year. — Winter Pruning. — The upper- 
most shoot or lead of the Vine must now be 
cut off so as to leave six feet of the wood 
made last summer, as Fig. 4. a. This will 
very probably be near the top of the house, 
if it should be so, a foot longer or shorter may 
be allowed so that the Vine answer the 
desired end in coming as high up as wanted, 
which ought to be about fifteen or eighteen 
inches from the top. 

The second shoot upon the Vine must be 
cut back so as to leave six feet of the new 
wood, as Fig. 4. b. And the lowest shoot be 
pruned down to four feet, as c. 



Fig. 4 




All lateral shoots (whether they bore fruit 
or not last summer) must be cut clean away, 
as d, d, d. When the Vines break the 
ensuing spring they will have three differ- 
ent bearing shoots, as a, b, c, which will 

o o 



282 



TREATMENT OF THE 



probably extend to the top of the house, 
being sixteen feet in a bearing condition. 

The uppermost shoot upon the Vine must 
this summer be allowed to retain two bunches 
of fruit, the same as all other bearing shoots. 
The bunches being retained upon the top 
shoot prevent its growing so vigorously as it 
otherwise would. The top shoot must be 
stopped in the same manner as all other 
bearing shoots. 

The top buds upon those two shoots which 
supply fruit at the lower part of the Vine, 
as b, c, must not have any fruit left upon 
them, but be trained up to furnish wood as 
already directed. 

Another shoot must this summer be trained 
up from the bottom of the Vine, (from the 
old wood if possible, otherwise as low down 
as it can be had) this shoot must be treated 
according to previous instructions. It is 
desirable that it should be trained up the 
opposite side of the Vine from the last shoot 
trained in. 

Fourth Year, — Winter Pruning. — The shoot 
which bore fruit to the top of the house, must 
now be cut entirely away to the bottom of 
the Vine, as Fig. 5. a, close to the point 
from which the next shoot in length proceeds, 
as that is to supply the place of the one 
taken away, and must be shortened to the 
extent the Vine is to bear, as at b. All the 
other shoots must be pruned off at their re- 



VINE. 



283 



spective lengths, agreeably to the instructions 
previously given; also, all the lateral shoots 
must be cut clean away, as before directed. 
When shoots are produced upon the old stems 
from which the lateral shoots were cut away, 
if thev are not wanted for a supply of wood, 
let them be rubbed off when they are an inch 
long. 



Fio\ 5. 




This treatment of the Vine may be prac- 
tised for a great number of years, and under 
it will always be properly furnished with 
wood and be in a good bearing condition. 
The principle object is to obtain a supply of 
young wood as low down the Vine as possible. 

When through weakness it is deemed ne- 
necessary to renovate the Vines, they must 
be cut entirely down to one or two buds, 
and afterwards be treated as young Vines. 



284 



TREATMENT OF THE 



The Vine border must also be renewed 
when required, by an addition of fresh soil 
and manure in the same proportion to each 
other as directed for a new border. In per- 
forming this, begin to open a trench at six 
feet from the house, to the front of the border, 
and be careful not to bruise or break more 
roots than cannot possibly be avoided. Take 
a considerable quantity of the old compost 
entirely away, and substitute new instead of 
it. Lay the roots of the Vines carefully upon 
the soil in a proper direction, placing them 
eight or ten inches higher than they w r ere 
before, in order to allow for settling, so 
that when the border sinks they may be 
at their proper level with the other roots 
which were not disturbed. Such a re- 
newal of the border should always take 
place about the time when the Vines are 
pruned at autumn. 

Grapes may be successfully obtained by 
forcing them in pots, they will require the 
same regulation of heat as already directed 
for forcing Vines, they must also be sprinkled 
over the tops as Vines in a Vinery or stove, 
and be watered at the roots as directed for 
Peach trees in pots. The Vines must be 
allowed to bear upon spurs, and as many 
may be retained, as can be permitted with- 
out interfering with each other. " In pruning 
them, let all spurs be regularly cut down 
to two buds each, and they must be stopped 



VINE. 



285 



in summer two joints above the fruit, at 
which length they should be kept. A few 
leading snoots must be allowed to grow 
three or four feet in length during sum- 
mer, and then at the following winter prun- 
ing be cut back to two buds. All laterals 
and claspers to be taken off as already 
directed. 

The following observations apply to the 
treatment of the Vine as trained against an 
open wall. The border is to be composed of 
the same kind of compost, and be prepared 
in the same manner, also the Vines be 
planted according to the directions previously 
given for those cultivated in a Vinery or stove. 
The time for planting the Vines must be as 
early in spring as may be, when no danger 
from frost is apprehended. The distance 
at which they are to be planted from each 
other must be for a wall twelve feet high, 
twelve feet apart. 

In order to bring the fruit to perfection in 
the colder parts of the kingdom, it is requi- 
site to have the Vines planted against a 
flued wall, also to have the wall colour- 
ed with coal tar or dark coloured paint. 
If the wall be flued it is necessary that a 
trellis be fixed against the bottom of it, and 
to come as high up, as the top of the first 
flue. After the Vines are planted, let a 
little fire heat be applied at nights and 
continued for two or three weeks, when it 



286 



TREATMENT OF THE 



may be given up. As the Vines push for- 
ward let them be carefully trained straight 
up the wall, and if they reach the top let 
them be stopped, also all claspers and late- 
rals must be taken off agreeably to the 
instructions for Vineries and stoves. 

First Year,- — Winter Pruning. — The Vines 
must be cut down to three buds; also be 
mulched, &c. as directed for Vineries or 
stoves. 

As soon as the buds begin to burst the 
following spring, a little fire heat must be 
given, so as to make the Avail about new 
milk warm, also if the weather be severe a 
covering should be placed over them. The 
woollen nets recommended for Peach and 
Nectarine trees, are the most suitable for 
this purpose. This covering as well as the 
fire heat, must be continued so long as dan- 
ger is feared from frost. 

If all three buds push shoots, let the two 
uppermost be retained and rub the lowest 
one off, and if there be any bunches of fruit 
shewn, let them be pinched away. The 
shoots must be trained horizontally for six 
feet from the bole, one on each side; at that 
distance the direction of the end of each 
shoot must be changed, so that they may after- 
wards run straight up the wall. After they 
have pushed three feet in the erect posi- 
tion, let about two feet be cut off the end 
of each shoot, and when they push again 



VINE. 



287 



and have grown a foot or two, let them be 
stopped. All laterals and claspers which are 
hereafter produced upon the Vine, must be 
taken away as already directed. 

Second Year. J) inter Pruning. Both 

the shoots must be pruned back to that 
part whiph is in the horizontal direction, so 
that each will be six feet long from the 
bole of the Vine. After the Vines are pruned 
let them be anointed with composition (See 
index.) This attention to anointing the Vines 
and washing the wall, must be regularly 
attended to in every future year. 

When the buds begin to burst at the fol- 
lowing spring, let a little fire heat be given, 
which must be continued until the berries are 
set, also the Vines be covered as directed last 
year. This attention must be paid every fu- 
ture year. When the shoots have pushed about 
two inches long, they will require the fol- 
lowing regulation The endmost shoot upon 
each of the branches must be trained straight 
up the wall, other shoots must also be trained 
in that direction, at ten inches apart from 
each other; therefore proper shoots for train- 
ing in the manner directed must be reserved, 
and all intermediate ones rubbed off. The 
shoots retained must be allowed to grow to 
the top of the wall, and then be stopped. 
All shoots in future must be stopped at the 
top of the wall as here directed, and if they 
push a second time be stopped again. 



288 TREATMENT OF THE 



All bunches of fruit which are shewn 
upon the shoots trained in, must be re- 
tained, and when the berries are at a 
proper size the bunches must be thinned. 
When the fruit is beginning to change its 
colour for ripening, a little fire heat should 
be applied until the fruit be ripe, as it con- 
tributes very materially to improve the fla- 
vour and to increase the size of the berries ; 
also to bring the wood to a proper state of 
maturity. 

Third Year. Winter Pruning. The 

upright shoots must now be cut down so as 
to leave them four feet long.' 

All the bunches of fruit which are shewn 
the following spring must be retained, ex- 
cepting upon the lowest new shoots, which 
must be trained close up the side of each 
mother branch. When they have attained six 
feet in length, they must be stopped by cut- 
ting off twelve inches, and afterwards keeping 
them at that length. Also the uppermost new 
shoot upon each branch must be trained 
straight up the wall, and be stopped when 
they reach the top. All the other shoots 
upon the branches must be stopped at two 
joints above the bunches of fruit, at which 
they must afterwards be kept. These lateral 
branches must be nailed regularly to the 
wall, and the fruit must have the same 
attention as before laid down. 

Fourth Year. Winter Pruning. — —The 



VINE. 



289 



shoots a, a, Fig. 1. must now be cut down so 
as to leave four feet of the wood made last 
summer; and the shoots b, b, must be cut off 
opposite to where each leading shoot was 
pruned to last year, which will be four feet 
long; all the lateral shoots which bore fruit 
last summer must now be cut clean away, as 
c, c. 




During the following summer another shoot 
must be trained up from the bottom of each 
of the leading branches, and it must be stop- 
ped as done to the one trained from the 
bottom last year This shoot must be trained 
up at the opposite side of the branch from 
the other. The second shoot in length must 
be permitted to grow about six feet and then 
be stopped, by cutting off one foot from the 
end, at which length it must be kept, and 
the leading shoot be stopped at the top of 
the wall. 

Fifth Year.— Winter Pruning. — The lead- 
ing shoots must be cut off at twelve inches 

pp 



290 



TREATMENT OF THE 



from the top of the wall, as Fig. 2. a, a. The 
second shoots opposite to where the leading 
ones were cut last winter pruning, as b, b, and 




the lowest shoots at four feet, as c, c. All the 
lateral shoots that have borne fruit, must be 
cut entirely away. During the ensuing 
summer another shoot must be trained up 
from the bottom of each branch, at the op- 
posite side to the one trained up last sum- 
mer. The other shoots must be regulated 
as already directed. 

Sixth Year. — Winter Pruning. All the 

leading shoots, as 'Fig. 3. a, a, must now be 
cut entirely away to the origin of the next 
shoot in length, as b, b ; and the next' shoot 
in length, as c, must now be pruned off one 
foot from the top of the wall. 'The other 
shoots to be cut down according to previous 
instruction. 



VINE. 



291 



All lateral shoots which bore fruit to be 
cut clean away. 

The system of management now detailed 
must be practised every future year, by 
shortening the shoots, cutting away entirely 
the lateral ones that bore last season, also 
in training up young ones from the bottom 
of the branches every year; and it may be 
pursued for a great many years without 
exhausting the Vines. The fruit will be 




considerably finer by treating the Vine in 
this manner, than if it was spurred as is ge- 
nerally the case. When it is required to 
renew the Vines, the upright shoots may all 
be cut down to about two buds from their 
origin. The border may be also renewed in 
the manner directed for stoves or Vineries. 



292 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

On the Fig Tree. 

The Fig is cultivated in houses appro- 
priated to the purpose, or is introduced in 
pots, into stoves or Vineries, also trained 
against open walls, and in some very favour- 
able situations may succeed as a standard. 
I shall first treat of those trained against 
open walls. 

The Fig tree likes a good deep light loamy 
soil. ( See Chapter formation of fruit tree borders ) 
In planting the tree let a little of well rotted 
cow's dung well mixed with the soil be 
placed immediately around the roots, but 
none be mixed in the other part of the 
border providing the soil of the border is 
a good loam. ( See Chapters, planting, water- 
ing,and mulching fruit trees.) The distance 
at which the trees must be planted from 
each other is for a wall twelve feet high, 
eighteen feet apart. The form in which 
they should be trained is the horizontal, as 
the trees will thus be more fruitful than 
when trained more erect, but in those cases 
where the trees trained horizontally are still 
too luxuriant, let the branches be trained 
in a pendulous manner, and the more lux- 



FIG. 



293 



uriant the tree, the greater must be the 
declination. In pruning and training the 
Fig tree, (as in other fruit trees,) the great 
object must be to keep a regular supply 
of young wood in every part. The shoots 
must be trained so far distant that the- sun 
and air will be properly admitted to every 
part; in those kinds that have very large 
leaves the distance must be twelve or four- 
teen inches at least. The Fig tree shews 
two or three fruit at the ends of the spring 
shoots, but which do not always ripen well. 
The principal crop of Figs is produced upon 
those shoots that are made after midsummer, 
therefore care must be taken to preserve the 
fruit through winter, and they will come to 
perfection in June or July following. When 
a sufficiency of lateral bearing shoots is not 
produced, they may be obtained by attend- 
ing to the following directions. When the 
spring shoots have done growing, which will 
generally be the end of May or beginning 
of June, let each shoot (where wood is re- 
quired) be stopped, by pinching the end 
betwixt the finger and thumb, so hard as to 
feel that the shoot gives way to the pressure, 
but not so as to break it; this will cause 
shoots to push below where it was stopped. 
If a shoot thus desired to be stopped be a 
long one, let it be bruised or broken nearly 
in two about the middle, or a piece of string 
be twitched very tight round it, and the end 



294 



TREATMENT OF THE 



of the shoot above the string be brought 
nearly parallel clown by the side of the re- 
maining part of the shoot, and this will 
cause shoots to push where desired. Those 
lateral shoots generally shew plenty of fruit 
during the months of August, September, and 
October, but appearing late in the year, they 
will not ripen in this country the same sea- 
son; but some of the fruit will attain to 
half their size or more. Such as attain to 
the size referred to, or even if much larger 
than a large marrow pea, will very seldom 
survive the severity of winter. This being 
almost universally observed, it is a very ge- 
neral practice at the end of Autumn to take 
away all Figs that are the size described. 
This removing of them is certainly proper, 
but they ought to be taken away at a much 
earlier period, even as soon as they were 
discovered to be Figs. By doing so the sap 
is diverted to the formation of one or occa- 
sionally two embryo Figs at the side of the 
fruit removed, and which will be so small as 
to escape injury by covering them during 
winter, but will ripen well the following 
summer. 

During summer the soil of the border 
must be kept well watered, and the regula- 
tion of the shoots as before directed be at- 
tended to. 

Previous to frosty weather setting in, the 
trees will require to be covered in order 



fig. 295 



to protect them from the severity of winter. 
This protection is more necessary in the cold 
parts of this country, than in the warmer 
parts, where it is scarcely required at alh 
In covering them it is proper to use no more 
than is absolutely necessary, for when they 
have had a very thick covering during win- 
ter, the branches are so tender that when 
it is taken off in the spring, the check they 
then receive is very injurious and diminishes 
the fertility of the tree. The covering used 
must be proportioned according to the cold 
or warmth of the situation. Broom is a very 
excellent article for this purpose; let it be 
soaked in soap suds and urine for twenty- 
four hours and then be dried again before 
using. Always let the broom be well se- 
cured to the wall so that it may not blow 
about, and be so fixed around the branches 
of the tree as to afford the most complete 
protection. Always let a good portion of 
mulch be laid over the roots to protect them 
during winter, which may be removed about 
May following. 

The winter pruning of the trees must be 
performed in spring, just before the sap 
begins to move. In doing this, leave as 
many fruitful shoots as will properly supply 
the tree in the manner before directed. 
Always retain the lowest lateral shoot upon 
any branch, in order to keep the tree sup- 
plied with young wood to its centre. All 



296 



TREATMENT OF THE 



shoots that are rejected must be cut clean 
away, except a supply of wood be wanted 
in such a place next year, when at this time 
a rejected shoot must be cut down so asto 
leave one bud upon it. All shoots that are 
retained for bearing fruit the following sum- 
mer must remain wholly unshortened. After 
the tree is pruned let it be anointed with 
composition. (See Index.) A slight covering 
is sometimes necessary for a few weeks after 
pruning. The best for the purpose at this 
season is woollen nets; when the weather 
is settled this covering may be removed. 

In the forcing of Figs in houses, the same 
directions in respect to pruning must be at- 
tended to. The trees will require a plentiful 
supply of water both at the tops and roots, 
particularly at the latter. In addition to 
Fig trees being trained to a trellis against 
the back wall, some may be planted in large 
tubs and be plunged into the border near the 
middle of the house. Those being allowed 
to grow as dwarf standards will bear abun- 
dantly. For confining the roots in tubs, 
promotes the fruitfulness of the trees. The 
heat of the house must be regulated as for 
forced Peach and Nectarine trees. 

Fig trees may also be planted in pots and 
introduced into any Peach house, Vinery, or 
stove. Those will produce Jthree or four 
crops of Figs every year. They will require 
a very plentiful supply of water at the roots. 



FIG. 



297 



The water must be poured upon the soil, 
and allowed to filter through it to the bottom. 
The watering must be regulated so as to give 
manure water twice, and pure soft water once, 
always having the water of a temperate heat, 
otherwise the Figs would drop off. 



Qq 



208 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

On the Gooseberry Tree. 

Gooseberry trees like a good deep strong 
rich loamy soil, and almost any airy situ- 
ation is suitable for them, but the crop is 
most abundant when the situation is favour- 
able to their protection in spring from the 
cold east winds, which are frequently de- 
structive to the blossom of those trees. Trees 
of this kind may be planted in quarters by 
themselves, in borders round the garden, or 
so as to train them against a trellis. In 
planting them in quarters, they ought to be 
six feet apart in the rows, and eight feet 
between the rows, and when it is designed 
to plant them against a trellis, they must be 
planted nearer or farther apart, according to 
the height of the trellis. A trellis of five 
feet high is what I prefer, for when it is 
higher it will shade the next row of trees 
behind, unless the trellis be fixed so as to 
point from south to north, but they are best 
when constructed from east to west, as the 
trees have the fall advantage of the sun. 
Trees planted against a trellis tts described, 
should be set four feet apart in the rows, and 
six feet betwixt the rows. In planting the 



GOOSEBERRY. 



299 



trees always spread the roots regularly round 
the bole, and at four inches from the sur- 
face; let the tree be mulched and watered 
immediately after being planted. 

The trees afterwards require a summer 
and winter regulation. In furnishing the 
tree with w ood let the bearing shoots be six 
inches apart. The summer regulation must 
be performed about the end of June or early 
in July, in doing which let any strong lux- 
uriant shoots be taken awav, also all suckers 
which may be arising. It is a practice with 
some persons at this season of the year to 
pinch off the ends of all shoots upon the 
tree, but I disapprove of it as a general prac- 
tice, because I have had ample proof that it 
causes the tree to send forth a great number 
of useless shoots and thus its strength is 
thrown away. 

There is also another injury done to the 
tree at the early part of the season by the 
gathering of the fruit when it is green, and 
before it has attained half the size it would 
have done. In doing this, some persons 
clear whole trees of the berries which were 
upon them ; the effect of which is, that the 
trees being so suddenly deprived of their 
produce receive a very severe check, and 
the superabundance of sap is expended in a 
great production of suckers and luxuriant 
shoots, thus their strength is thrown away 
and the trees greatly injured. Instead of this 



300 TREATMENT OF THE 



I always thin off the berries from every tree, 
and thus the fruit which remains is improved 
in size; and the object of a supply of green 
Gooseberries is obtained, whilst a proper 
reserve is left for ripening. If it be desired 
to have very large fruit it may be obtained 
by a judicious thinning, shading of the fruit 
from hot sun, and when the fruit approaches 
maturity from rain; also by watering the 
roots with manure water. The water which 
I use is, three quarts of drainings from a 
dunghill to one quart drained from fowls' 
or pigeons' dung soaked for the purpose, 
which must be applied so as to keep the soil 
in a moist condition. Let manure water 
be used twice and pure water once in regu- 
lar succession. 

The winter pruning must be performed as 
early in the season as possible. A proper 
distribution of shoots must be left through- 
out the tree, so that the bearing shoots be 
six inches apart. In shortening the shoots 
of a good healthy tree, cut them to twelve 
buds, and reserve one lateral shoot as near 
to the origin of each main branch or shoot 
as possible. Cut clean away all shoots 
or branches not wanted, and let all suckers 
be pulled or grubbed up. As soon as the 
trees are pruned let the mixture for the des- 
truction of insects be applied. - (See Cater- 
pillar.) 

When winter has set in, let a quantity 



GOOSEBERRY. 



301 



of well rotted manure be spread upon the 
soil to the extent that the roots reach to. 
The strength of this will be washed down 
into the ground and will enrich the soil, also 
be destructive of the larvae of any insects 
which may be in the ground. At the fol- 
lowing spring the best rotted part of the 
manure may be just turned under the soil 
but not to dig deeper than three inches 
as far as the roots extend, but the other part 
of the soil must be dug a spit deep. Where 
there is the conveniency of having well rotted 
tanner's bark, I should recommend that it be 
occasionally used instead of manure. 



302 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

On the Currant tree. 

The treatment of the Currant tree is the 
same as that directed for the Gooseberry, 
with the exception of pruning. In pruning 
the Currant tree, always endeavour to keep 
a plentiful supply of young vigorous wood, 
as the fruit is much finer when produced 
from such, than from short spurs. In order 
to obtain suitable wood it is necessary to cut 
out a certain quantity of the old w r ood every 
year, and with the exception of the main 
limbs, let no wood be retained that is more 
than four year's old. The main limbs of the 
tree must always be disposed at a proper dis- 
tance from each other so that the bearing 
wood may not be crowded. The shoots re- 
tained must be left about four inches apart, 
and their ends be cut off, strong vigor- 
ous shoots must have about three inches cut 
off the end, and less vigorous ones in pro- 
portion. Always use a knife for pruning the 
trees, and not a pair of garden shears as is 
generally practised. 



303 



CHAPTER XXX. 

On the Raspberry. 

The Raspberry requires a deep light 
loamy soil, moderately enriched with well 
rotted manure. 

Suckers with good roots may be planted 
early in October, so that they may strike 
root before winter. If they are to be treated 
as bushes, they may be planted in rows at 
live feet apart, and four feet in the rows. It 
is a good plan to train Raspberries against 
a trellis as described for Gooseberries. In 
planting let them be placed singly at ten 
inches apart, and both sides of the trellis be 
planted. 

The Raspberry requires a summer and 
winter regulation. The first is about mid- 
summer or a little later, in doing which, pull 
up or cut clean away to inside the soil, all 
suckers, except about eighteen or twenty to 
every bush, and to as many more as will be 
wanted at the winter pruning against the 
trellis. By doing this the fruit is improved 
in size, and the shoots which are to bear 
next year get well matured. Whatever 
shoots are produced after this regulation let 



304 



RASPBERRY. 



them be destroyed by pulling up, as soon 
as they are a foot or half a yard high. 

At winter pruning let all the shoots which 
bore fruit last summer be cut away close to 
the ground, and to every bush leave about 
eight or ten of those shoots produced last 
summer, cutting clean away all others ; after 
this is done they must be tied together so 
that two bushes will form an arch, after 
being tied let a few inches be cut off the 
ends. Of those trained against a trellis, leave 
as many good shoots to bear next year as 
will be ten inches apart, pruning a little 
from the ends and then tying them to the 
trellis. If the plants are not very vigorous 
some well rotted manure must be dug in 
round the roots, but not to dig deeper than 
four inches. Raspberries will bear for eight 
years from the time of planting, when they 
must be destroyed. But two years previous 
to this, a new plantation of them must be 
made in some other place, so that when the 
old ones are destroyed, this will be in a good 
bearing condition. 



305 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

On the Straivberry. 

The Strawberry should always have an 
open situation well exposed to the sun and 
air; and a light rich loam to the depth of 
twenty inches at least. I always find that 
Strawberries succeed the best when planted 
in single rows. The season which I prefer 
for planting is the spring, generally about 
the end of March, varying according to the 
season. The soil in which they are to be 
planted should be enriched with well rotted 
manure, (cow's dung is what I prefer) more 
or less according to the kind of Strawberry 
to be planted ; the Pine, Imperial, and the 
strong growing kinds must not have so much 
manure by a great deal as the Roseberry, 
Boss Stock, Hautboy, and the less vigorous 
sorts, because too much manure causes the 
former to run into leaf. 

When the plants come to a bearing state 
they require a good deal of water, which 
should be given so abundantly that it may 
sink very deep into the earth. The moist- 
ness or dryness of the season must point out 
the frequency of water being applied; always 
give them one or two good waterings before 

R r 



306 



STRAWBERRY. 



the bloom expands, but when the blossom is 
expanded let the water be carefully poured 
in amongst the plants and not over their tops, 
otherwise a great number of the blossoms 
would be rendered abortive by the farina 
being washed off, but when the fruit is set 
(which will be discovered by the falling off 
of the petals) watering over the tops is of 
great service, as it occasions the fruit to swell 
finer. About the middle or end of May, 
all runners which are between the rows 
must be taken away so that there be ten 
or twelve inches of bare ground between 
them. The taking off the runners at this 
time ensures the production of finer fruit 
than otherwise would be the case. The 
plants must always be kept clear of weeds. 
When the fruit approaches maturity let wa- 
tering over the tops be desisted from, and 
some clean straw be placed along the sides of 
the rows, this keeps the fruit clean and pre- 
serves them from moulding, and is easily 
performed. At the autumn (generally about 
the end of October) let all the alleys be dug 
over, the breadth of ten inches, and at the 
same time dig in the alleys some well rotted 
manure (cow's dung is preferable being cool.) 
At the following spring about the end of 
March, or when it is considered the severe 
frosts are over for that season, iet all the old 
tops of the plants be cut clean off. I find 
that the plants do best when the tops are left 



TREATMENT OF THE 



307 



upon them until spring, as the leaves pro- 
tect the roots from the severity of frost dur- 
ing winter. And when they are taken off 
at autumn I never could discover that the 
plants were strengthened by it, but were 
thus exposed to all the severity of winter. 
In dressing over the plants at spring, where 
there is such a quantity together that they 
crowd each other, let them be regularly 
thinned. After this is done, let some good 
loamy soil and well rotted manure mixed 
together, be sprinkled amongst the plants 
but not so as to cover them. After this 
dressing, the plants will require no more at- 
tendance than what has already been given. 

Strawberry plants seldom bear fruit well 
for a longer period than four or five years. It 
is advisable therefore to make a fresh planta- 
tion every four years. The Wood, and Al- 
pine Strawberries ought to be renewed every 
third year. They bear the most abundant 
when raised from seed. The method I prac- 
tice with them is to gather the fruit and 
spread them open in the sun for a day or 
two, then wash the seeds out and immedi- 
ately sow them in a bed of rich light soil. 
As soon as the plants are big enough to 
transplant, I prick them out at three inches 
apart in some other beds of rich soil. At 
the following spring I finally plant them off, 
and they will sometimes bear well the first 
year, 



308 



STRAWBERRY. 



Strawberries may be successfully forced in 
any forcing house or frame. The sorts which 
I find to succeed best are the Roseberry, Boss 
Stock, and Scarlet. Bearing plants taken 
up from the beds in autumn previous, or 
runners potted off in spring, will do for this 
purpose. The soil must be a light rich 
loam. After the plants are potted off, let the 
pots be plunged up to the rim in a border. 
If any of the plants potted off in spring shew 
bloom the first summer, let it be pinched off 
as soon as observed; keep the plants clear 
from weeds, and let them be well attended 
with water at all times when required. 

At the end of September or early in Octo- 
ber, all runners that are produced upon them 
must be taken away. The plants will be 
ready for forcing the following winter and 
spring. 

At the time it is desired to commence 
forcing the plants, the leaves must be dressed 
off and a little fresh soil sprinkled amongst 
them. 

Established plants from the beds must be 
taken up at the end of September. They 
must be taken up with balls of earth nearly 
the size of the pots in which they are to be 
planted, and be potted in rich soil as before 
directed. When Alpine Strawberries are de- 
sired for forcing let them be raised by seed 
as already described. 

The time of beginning to force the plants 



TREATMENT OF THE 



309 



must be determined by the season at which 
the fruit will be wanted, but it is advisable 
never to commence forcing before January, 
with the exception of the Alpine which will 
endure the operation much better than any 
of the other kinds, and plants of that sort 
may be forced from the end of November. 
When forcing is commenced in January, the 
plants will require ten weeks in order to per- 
fect fruit, later in the season not quite so 
much time, and earlier in the season a longer 
period. For one month previous to intro- 
ducing the plants into a house for forcing, 
let them be placed under a frame in a shel- 
tered situation but exposed to the sun. — 
The plants may be forced in a Peach house, 
Vinery, stove, or hot-bed frame, but early in 
the winter it is far better to force them by 
fire heat, as the steam arising from the ma- 
nure of a hot-bed will frequently rot off the 
bloom or fruit. In forcing them in a house, 
let the plants be placed within half a yard 
of the glass, this may easily be done by fix- 
ing up shelves, taking care that they are 
placed where the plants can obtain a good 
portion of air when desired. Always have 
a saucer placed underneath each pot, which 
will hold the overplus of water given to the 
plants. But in watering them (which should 
always be done before the soil becomes dry) 
let the water be poured upon the surface of the 
earth in the pot, and not in the feeder as is 



310 



STRAWBERRY. 



practised by many. A little water may be 
sprinkled over the tops after the fruit is set, 
but not before. When this is done early in 
the season let it be done in a morning, and 
on those days when they are likely to have 
a little sun ; but later in the season it may 
be done in the evening or morning as desired. 
The heat which the Strawberry requires is 
about 52° for the first week, after that 60° 
until the fruit is set, when it may be raised 
to 63° at which it must be kept. The atten- 
tion to the heat is not particularly required 
as they will do with more occasionally, only 
that such a medium is suitable to them. A 
succession of plants may be introduced into 
the house every two weeks. When the 
plants have done bearing, they may be re- 
moved out of the house, and early in the 
season into a cooler department for a few 
weeks, and afterwards be turned out of the 
pots into the open ground. The tops must 
be cut off, and the plants be well watered 
afterwards, and they will frequently produce 
a late crop of fruit the same summer, and 
as plants are removed out of the house in 
succession, Strawberries may be obtained 
until very late in the year. A fresh supply 
of plants must be planted off, and turned out 
after being forced, every year. 



311 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

The taking up, replanting, and future treatment of large 
Fruit trees. 

The removal of large fruit trees from one 
situation to another, is frequently found ne- 
cessary for various reasons which need not 
be here enumerated; but I have sometimes 
had recourse to it, when a tree has grown 
too vigorously, which operation I never found 
to fail of producing the desired effect of bring- 
ing it to a fruitful state. 

In performing this work, various are the 
methods practised and recommended, that 
which I have adopted for many years with 
abundant success, is the following: — 

Take the tree up with as great a quantity 
of roots as possible, also secure as large a 
ball of earth as can be done. In taking it 
up, let a trench be dug out to the depth of 
the border at the extent desired to have the 
roots, (which ought not to be less than six 
feet from the bole of the tree.) When the 
trench is dug out, let the soil which is at the 
upper side of the general mass of roots be 
thrown off; after which it must be taken 
from the under side, this is best done by un- 
dermining them. Great care must be taken 



312 



TREATMENT OF 



not to bruise any part of the roots which are 
to remain, and always cut with a sharp 
knife, any roots which it is required to do, 
also cut each close up to a lateral one. When 
the tree is thus loosened, let some matts be 
wrapped round the ball of earth and be se- 
cured by a cord, the branches of the tree 
must be tied together to prevent them from 
damaging each other. In carrying the tree 
away, it must be laid with the back part 
downwards and by means of two poles, one 
made fast across the bole of the tree, round 
which a sufficient protection of matting has 
been applied ; and the other placed so as to 
support the ball of earth. In this manner 
the tree may safely be removed to the place 
in which it is to be replanted, however large 
it may be. 

The border in which the tree is to be planted 
must be prepared according to the direction 
given. ( See the Chapter- on fruit tree borders.) 
Let-the hole be dug out so large that the 
roots may be fully extended, and so deep 
that they may be covered about eight inches. 
The soil inside the hole and upon which the 
tree is to be planted, must be moderately en- 
riched with some well rotted cow's dung, also 
a portion of soil be enriched that is filled in 
immediately about the roots. Let the tree 
be placed so high in the hole as to allow for 
the settling of the border, that the roots 
may finally be at their proper level with the 



LARGE FRUIT TREES. 



313 



border. Care must be taken that the soil is 
well closed to the roots so that no hollow 
places are left. After the soil is filled in, 
let it be moderately pressed to the roots, 
and the tree must be watered with drain- 
in gs from the dunghill, also be mulched. 
The season which I prefer for performing 
this business is the end of October, or early in 
November, therefore unless the weather be 
very dry, the tree will not require any more 
water at the roots until the following spring 
and summer, when it will be necessary so as 
to keep the soil moist. After the tree is 
planted, the top must be sprinkled with water 
every other morning at least, until the end 
of November. It must be resumed again 
the following spring, and be continued as 
long as required. This practice considerably 
assists the more speedy establishment of the 
tree. 

In respect to pruning the branches at the 
time of removal, I think very little is re- 
quired, excepting any broken or damaged 
parts, or when a tree is in a weakly condi- 
tion. In the latter case I shorten the branches 
in proportion to the extent the tree covers, 
so as to cut away one-fourth. 

When I have determined the summer pre- 
vious, to remove a tree of this description, I 
train in a shoot at that part of each branch I 
intend to prune to. But when a tree is not in 
a weakly state I never shorten any branch, 

s s 



314 



TREATMENT, &C. 



being fully convinced from many years prac- 
tice, that it is not necessary when the pre- 
ceding directions are attended to. And if a 
tree can be so managed as to do well and 
retain its entire head, it certainly must be far 
preferable to the practice of shortening the 
branches. 

Healthy fruitful trees, removed and treated 
as here directed, I have found generally to 
bear a good crop of fruit the first summer, 
and never failed to do so the second. Also 
luxuriant trees have uniformly been produc- 
tive at the second summer, the check they 
received by removal throwing them into a 
fruitful state. 



315 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

The renovating of old and neglected Fruit Trees, 

First of those kinds which principally 
produce their fruit upon spurs such as Apple, 
Pear, Plum, Cherry, &c. It is not uncom- 
mon to see trees of the kinds enumerated, 
after they have been planted, trained, and 
pruned, for twenty years and upwards, agree- 
ably to the method generally practised, dis- 
figured with spurs projecting from the wall 
ten or twelve inches, and in many cases 
more than that distance. The general result 
of such bad management is, that the trees do 
not bear their due proportion of fruit, (see 
the Chapter on spurring fruit trees ) neither is 
that produced near so fine as it would have 
been, had the trees been treated according 
to directions laid down in this treatise. 

However trees of the before mentioned 
description may by a judicious treatment 
be recovered and brought to a much better 
condition, also to bear nearly equal to young 
trees of a similar size. In order to effect this 
object, at the winter pruning a great number 
of the spurs must be cut down to about 
half an inch from the origin of each; but 
if some of these branch spurs have a lateral 



316 



RENOVATING OF 



spur situated within two inches of their ori- 
gin, such spurs must be pruned off just above 
each lateral one alluded to. The quantity of 
spurs to be left untouched, must be one every 
six inches; these must be trained to the wall 
betwixt the main branches, alternately along* 
them, so that there will be twelve inches or 
upwards from spur to spur of those trained 
in at the same side of each branch. The 
distance described is most suitable for Plums 
and Cherries, but Apples and Pears must be 
sixteen inches apart. If there be any lateral 
spurs upon those branch spurs to be trained 
in, which are an hindrance to the spur being 
nailed close to the wall, let such parts be 
pruned away. The lateral spurs upon those 
branch spurs nailed in, will during the fol- 
lowing summer, mature a great portion of 
fruitful buds, and they will generally bear fruit 
abundantly the second summer. From the 
remaining parts of those branch spurs which 
were cut down to half an inch as directed, there 
will frequently arise a new spur from each the 
first or second year, such must be afterwards 
treated in every respect according to the in- 
structions given in treating upon each fruit 
tree respectively. If upon any of those spurs 
cut down to two inches from their origin, there 
should be a fruitful bud or a shoot produced 
near to the origin of the old spur,' let all that 
part of the spur above such new bud or shoot 
be pruned entirely away at the following 



OLD FRUIT TREES. 



317 



winter pruning. In addition to new spurs 
being produced from the old ones cut down, 
a great many shoots or fruit buds will fre- 
quently arise along the main branches where 
spurs were not situated before. All such 
must be treated as directed for young trees. 

In making choice of spurs to be nailed to 
the wall, choose the cleanest and most healthy 
and such as are at the sides of the branches 
which they are produced from, so that they 
can be trained to the wall without having 
to force them much from their natural di- 
rection. 

If a strong leading shoot pushes from any 
of those branch spurs trained in, let such a 
shoot be nailed to the wall, and at the fol- 
lowing winter pruning cut it back up to the 
next spur trained in at the same side of the 
branch, at which length it must afterwards 
be kept. 

When there is a proper supply of good 
bearing spurs obtained upon the main 
branches, so that a sufficient crop of fruit 
may be expected without retaining all those 
spurs trained in, let a portion of them be 
pruned away to the lowest bud upon each, 
only retaining such a supply as is directed 
to be trained in upon each respective kind 
of fruit tree, 

At the time when the spurs are pruned 
in as directed, the tree will require to be 
cleaned. This is always essentially neces- 



318 



RENOVATING OF 



sary in trees that have had long spurs upon 
them, because for want of a due portion of 
sun and air, it will always be found that a 
great deal of lichen or moss has been pro- 
duced upon the branches and spurs, which 
closes up the pores of the wood and conse- 
quently renders the trees unhealthy and un- 
productive. (See the Chapter on spurring 
fruit trees.) 

In order properly to clean the trees, let 
them be sprinkled over with water and then 
be well rubbed with a hard brush in everv 
part where it can possibly be done, taking 
great care not to break off any part of those 
spurs which are to remain. After a tree 
is thus cleaned, let it be anointed with com- 
position proper for the sort of tree. 

In treating upon those trees which do not 
generally bear fruit upon spurs, such as 
Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots. I shall 
add but little in this Chapter, because in 
fact I know not any method that can be 
practised upon old neglected trees of those 
kinds, (in order to get the wall covered with 
good fruitful trees) equal to that of planting- 
young ones that have been previously trained 
for two or three years. (See the Chapter upon 
'Peach and Nectarine trees.) But when ne- 
cessity induces to the cutting in or heading 
such trees, they must always 'be pruned to 
a leading shoot, so that the sap will have a 
channel in which it can be immediately em- 



OLD FRUIT TREES. 



319 



ployed advantageously. The necessity of 
having recourse to this practice may arise 
from circumstances similar to the following. 
I have been credibly informed that in some 
parts of England young trees never bear so 
abundantly neither prosper so well in any 
way as what old ones do, and from this cir- 
cumstance, old trees are purchased, headed 
down, and planted instead of young ones. 

When a large cut is made, let it be in a 
sloping direction, so that the wet may not 
be permitted to lodge in the wood. When 
there is reason to fear such injury, let a com- 
position of soot and train oil be mixed toge- 
ther stiff, and be laid over the wound, in 
order to keep out the moisture, which is the 
chief effect of compositions applied in this 
manner. Always let a cut be made as smooth 
as possible, because it will thus heal the 
sooner. 



320 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

The renovating Fruit Tree borders. 

When fruit trees are weakly through the 
defective state of the border, in its being ex- 
hausted of the nutriment which is necessary 
to be afforded from such a source, it will re- 
quire a renovation in order to recover the 
vigour of the tree. In the performance of 
this business, let the following observations 
be attended to. 

Let a trench be made about four feet wide 
and to the depth of the border, it must be 
made in the direction from the front of the 
border to the trees ; but so as not to approach 
nearer the wall than about five feet. In 
digging out the soil be careful not to damage 
the roots ; this may be avoided by beginning 
to dig at one side of the trench to the bottom, 
and then undermining the remaining part, 
always keeping one open trench betwixt 
that part of the border trenched and the 
other part to be trenched. About one-half 
of the worst part of the soil must be taken 
entirely away, and a suitable portion of fresh 
loam moderately enriched with rotted cow's 
dung or vegetable manure, be substituted in 
its place. 



RENOVATING FRUIT TREE BORDERS. 321 



Previous to filling up each trench, the 
roots of the trees will require pruning. All 
damaged parts must be cut clean away; also 
cut off about four or five feet from the 
end of every strong root which may have 
got to the extent of the border, and prune 
away such as are inclined to the under stra- 
tum. In shortening the roots always cut 
them clean otF close to a lateral. As the 
trench is filling up, the roots must be regu- 
larly placed upon the soil about five or six 
inches higher than their regular level, so that 
when the soil is finally settled the roots may 
be at their proper level and natural direc- 
tion. After the roots are covered with soil 
a few inches thick, let the earth be pressed, 
gently upon them, and when the trench is 
fully filled up, let there be a good portion 
of drainings from the dunghill or soft water 
be poured upon it to settle the soil to the 
roots. The season which I prefer for the 
performance of this work is the end of Octo- 
ber or in November, as when done so early 
the roots get established a little in the soil 
before the following spring, and which greatly 
assists their growth during summer. 



T t 



322 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

On the Orchard. 

The situation for an Orchard should al- 
ways be one that has the advantage of a free 
circulation of air and is well exposed to the 
south, also to incline a little to the south- 
east, south, or south-west. For when the 
situation is low and close, the trees are very 
liable to become mossy, which always injures 
them by closing up the pores of the wood. 
They are also more liable to be affected by 
blight. Although having an Orchard closely 
pent up by trees, &c. is injurious, neverthe- 
less a screen of forest trees, at such a dis- 
tance from the fruit trees as that the latter 
will not be shaded by them, is of very great 
service by protecting the trees in spring from 
severe cold winds. A good strong loamy 
soil not too retentive of moisture, to the depth 
of thirty inches or three feet, is most suitable 
for an Orchard. Great attention must be 
paid to the substratum so that the ground is 
well drained, for if the top soil be ever so 
good and the bottom be wet, it is a very rare 
case to find that the trees will prosper for 
many years, before they begin to be dis- 
eased and go to decay. As it is so indispen- 



THE ORCHARD. 



323 



sibly necessary to the success of Orchard 
trees that the bottom be dry, if it be not na- 
turally so, it must be made so. The extra 
expense caused by making it dry, will soon 
be repaid by the fertility of the trees. And 
they will continue to bear fruit many years 
after such trees as were planted at the same 
time in soil with a wet bottom. When it 
is necessary to make the bottom dry by 
draining, it must be done half a year before 
the time when the trees are to be planted. 
In performing this work, the ground (as in 
all cases) must be trenched, and when the 
trench is open, stones or brick bats, &c. must 
be laid over the bottom to the thickness of 
six inches, a little of coal ashes or small 
gravel must be sprinkled over the top of the 
stones, &c. and then the surface be gently 
rolled. Also drains must be made in dif- 
ferent directions so that any excess of mois- 
ture can be taken entirely away from the 
ground. The natural richness or poverty 
of the soil will point out the necessity or 
otherwise, of mixing some well rotted cow's 
dung amongst it. But more immediately 
about the roots of newly planted trees, 
always mix a portion of manure as described, 
taking care that it is well incorporated with 
the soil, for if left in large masses, it is inju- 
rious to the trees. In planting a tree, 
never place the roots deeper than is abso- 
lutely necessary for supporting it, eight 



324 



THE ORCHARD. 



inches from the surface is quite sufficient 
for the purpose. The distance at which the 
trees are to be planted, must be regulated 
according to their sorts, the dwarf kinds 
nearest, and taller sorts farther apart. I pre- 
fer planting them in the quincunx manner. 
The dwarf Apple trees worked upon Paradise 
stocks which are in so great estimation in 
the Islands of Guernsey and Jersey are very 
excellent for an Orchard, and are worthy of 
a more general cultivation in this country. 
The trees will bear abundantly the third or 
fourth year after working, and when they 
will not be more than four feet high. On 
account of their dwarf habit they may be 
planted in rows ten feet apart and nine feet 
in the rows, the produce of such trees are 
very abundant, and their appearance is beau- 
tiful. The dwarf kinds of the sorts of Orchard 
trees generally cultivated in this country may 
be planted twenty-four feet apart, and the 
taller kinds from thirty to thirty-five feet. 

As the distance stated is that, at which 
they are to remain for bearing, it is a 
very good method (particularly in the cold 
parts of this country) to plant some of those 
kinds of fruit trees which speedily come to a 
bearing condition in the spaces between 
those which are finally to remain; and as 
the latter advance in growth, cut the others 
away, or remove them to some other situ- 
ation. 



THE ORCHARD. 



325 



The Hawthorndean, and Keswick Cod! in 
Apples, with many other good sorts, are very 
suitable for the purpose described. After 
the trees are planted, let them be mulched, 
watered, and secured by stakes and hay 
bands, to prevent their being loosened by 
the wind. Nothing whatever ought to be 
cultivated in the ground as far as the roots 
of the trees extend; but during summer, let 
it be kept clean hoed to destroy all weeds. 

In respect to pruning of Orchard trees, it 
is not possible to lay down directions that 
will apply to all kinds, as done to wall trees. 
But a few general observations may be given 
which if attended to will be highly beneficial. 
It is indispensibly necessary to keep all the 
branches so far apart that they may not rub 
against each other. The bearing shoots 
ought to be several inches apart. As many 
kinds of trees grow in a form peculiar to 
themselves, such as grow in a conical form 
must be kept so, and have the branches pro- 
perly regulated, but such as do not must be 
attended to so as to bring them as much as 
possible to that form. Trees pruned and 
regulated after this manner are never so 
confused as otherwise is generally the case, 
and by the branches being horizontal, the 
trees are more fruitful. 

The forming of the head of a tree must 
be commenced the first spring after being 
planted, by retaining a proper supply of 



326 



THE ORCHARD. 



young shoots, and rubbing off all others. 
In forming the head always endeavour to 
retain an equal quantity of branches on 
every side, so that the tree will be equally 
poised. When wood is wanted, the end of 
a shoot must be stopped in order to produce 
a sufficiency. If the upright lead of a tree 
should at any time be accidentally broken, 
let a lateral shoot be tied up in a straight 
direction for a substitute. The second win- 
ter pruning must be performed at the end of 
Autumn, and a proper reserve of branches 
be left, also cut away all others. 

This attention to forming the head must 
regularly be paid in every future year, but 
after the third year from planting, never 
shorten the end of a leading shoot. After 
the trees come to a bearing condition, they 
must be regularly pruned every year, keep- 
ing the branches at the distance directed, 
and not retaining too much young wood in 
the interior of the tree; but that the sun 
and air may have free access amongst the 
branches. Trees that are regularly pruned 
every year will bear more abundantly, and 
have finer fruit than such as are pruned only 
once in ten or twenty years, as is too gener- 
ally the case. 

When a tree is weakly or ill shaped, 
through a bad system of pruning, or by the 
neglecting of it, the most expeditious remedy 
is to head it down; in doing which cut every 



THE ORCHARD. 



327 



main branch away, so as only to leave about 
one foot remaining of each. When a tree is 
defective through age, it must be headed down 
as already described, and the soil must be 
taken off the roots at a considerable distance 
from the bole, and when the roots are bare, 
let some of them be shortened, and any that 
are found to have struck perpendicularly 
down into the under stratum must be severed 
off; let a quantity of well rotted cow's dung 
and fresh soil be trenched in around the 
tree. 

When a tree is diseased from being affected 
by moss or lichen, it must be brushed over 
and anointed with composition. (See the 
Chapter on renovating old and neglected fruit 
trees.) It is a practice with me to anoint 
standard trees with a suitable composition, 
as far as it can conveniently be done, every 
third or fourth year; also every autumn and 
spring to sprinkle the trees frequently with 
soap suds, this is easily performed, and the 
vigour and health of the trees are greatly 
promoted by it, whilst at the same time, in- 
sects with their larvoe are also destroyed. 

It is of very great service to thin the fruit of 
Apple and Pear trees as far as is practicable. 
The time for performing which is, as soon as 
it begins to swell, and only to leave one fruit 
to each spur. By attending to this, the fruit 
which remains will be very much improved, 
and that which is lost in number is more than 



328 



THE ORCHARD. 



made up in the size of those retained. Also 
the tree is more certain to mature a suffi- 
ciency of fruitful buds to bear the following 
year, without which precaution it would not 
be the case. The injurious effects of omitting 
to attend to thinning of the fruit, is very fre- 
quently discovered by trees being nearly 
destitute of fruit for one season, during which 
they regain their strength; and then the fol- 
lowing year they will have an abundant crop, 
which weakens them. I have seen many 
instances of this description where they have 
alternately been loaded with fruit, and then 
nearly barren. 

In the spring just before the blossom opens, 
it contributes very much to the certain sett- 
ing of the fruit, to pour a large quantity of 
water over the roots of the trees; as much 
water as will settle to the depth of half 
a yard or two feet should be given. When I 
have manure water I use that for the pur- 
pose, otherwise soft pond water. Were it 
not for this practice in dry seasons, a great 
portion of the bloom or young fruit would 
drop off. After the fruit has begun to swell, 
I repeat the watering at the roots. 

When a tree turns out to be of a wrong kind 
and it is desired to change it, this may be 
done by inserting a graft of the desired sort, 
and pruning the other away. If the tree had 
previously made considerable progress, one 
graft may be inserted to grow erect, and one to 



THE ORCHARD. 



329 



each of the side branches *. Whatever shoots 
of the original kind may afterwards push, let 
them be cut clean away. 

At the spring of the year when the trees 
are in bloom, it is a practice I adopt with 
great success to smoke the trees well, by 
burning some moist straw near them, taking 
the advantage of a favourable day, so that 
the smoke will be conveyed to the trees. 
According to the quantity of smoke produced, 
and its remaining about the trees, or its be- 
ing quickly blown away, I am determined 
as to the length of time to continue the smook- 
ing, but the longer it is continued, the better. 
This practice destroys a great number of in- 
sects which are then moving about the trees. 
Remedies for the various insects and diseases 
with which the trees are attacked will be 
found in the Chapter upon each respectively. 



On gathering Apples and Pears. 

All fruit that is designed for preserving 
must be hand picked, and great care be 
taken that they are not bruised either in 
gathering or conveying them to the fruit 
room. 

The best time to gather the fruit is when 



* The best scions for grafting are those of the leading fruitful shoots with 
a wood bud at the end. 



u u 



330 



THE ORCHARD. 



the seeds have become of a dark colour, in 
some sorts they are nearly black, and in 
others brown. When a fruit or two drops 
naturally off, it is a sufficient intimation that 
the greater part of it is in a proper condition 
to be gathered. Always let the fruit be ga- 
thered when dry, and keep each kind that is 
to be preserved, separate to itself. 

A fruit room ought always to be dry and 
airy, and it is very serviceable to have shelves 
fixed up round the room; they should be 
made so that the bottom be composed of 
bars, and spaces be left to admit the air un- 
derneath; also to have an upright front 
board so that each shelf may be eight inches 
deep inside, their breadth may be as desired. 
Tiers of such shelves may be erected one 
above another. When the fruit is brought 
to the room, let it be laid in heaps upon 
some clean dry straw, and afterwards be co- 
vered with dry straw or matts. It must re- 
main in this state for a fortnight, when it 
will generally have sweat well, after which, 
each fruit must be dried with a flannel and 
be laid upon the shelves, before the fruit is 
placed on the shelves, there must be two or 
three inches thick of clean straight wheat 
straw spread, upon which the fruit must be 
placed. If there be a sufficient quantity of 
shelves, so that the fruit may be laid singly, 
it should be done so; but if not a sufficiency 
of shelves to admit of it being so placed, it 



THE ORCHARD. 



331 



ought not to be laid thicker than six inches. 
After the fruit is laid on the shelves, it must 
be covered two or three inches thick with 
clean straw. It will afterwards be required 
to occasionally look the fruit over, and any 
that are damaged must be taken away. — 
Nothing more is necessary than to keep the 
frost from the fruit and to preserve it from 
damp air. 



332 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

On insects and diseases to which fruit trees are incident, with 
remedies for them, fyc. 

In treating upon the various insects and 
diseases with which fruit trees are attacked, 
I do not consider that it is necessary to enter 
into a long, or philosophical detail of them, 
as such descriptions and details have already 
appeared, and a repetition of them in this 
work would answer no very valuable end; 
for the general knowledge of the insect or 
disease, with the short description which will 
be hereafter given, and the application of the 
remedies which will be laid down, will even- 
tually answer every practical purpose. 

On the Acarus, or Red Spider. 

This insect is so small as to be scarcely 
discernable without the aid of a microscope, 
it attacks most kinds of fruit trees, and may 
generally be discovered at the under side of 
the leaves. It particularly attacks those 
trees that are forced, a dry heat being very 
favourable to it; also in a dry summer trees 
which are out of doors will frequently be 



INSECTS AND DISEASES. 



333 



infested. Whatever tree is attacked by 
it, will speedily exhibit symptoms of its mis- 
chief, by the foliage turning a pale sickly 
colour, which is caused by the insect biting 
and extracting the juices from the leaves. 
Pure water or soap suds, applied by means 
of a syringe or garden engine, will destroy 
this insect; but the latter is preferable on 
account of the ingredients of which soap is 
composed, (and a small portion of which ad- 
heres to the leaves after a washing with them) 
being a preventive for a short time, of the 
insects which survive fixing again upon the 
foliage thus washed. The more forcible 
the water, &c. is applied, the better the 
effect produced, because the force of the water 
breaks the webs of the insect, and by it be- 
ing thus dislodged, falls to the ground and 
is destroyed by the wet. It must always be 
endeavoured to apply the water to the under 
side of the foliage, as the insect is chiefly to 
be found there. When trees are much in- 
fested a frequent repetition of watering is 
necessary. 

The time for washing trees out of doors, 
should always be done just before the sun 
leaves them, so that the trees are kept in a 
moist state until the following morning, which 
will be a much longer period than if applied 
in a morning. 

When trees cultivated in a house are 
attacked by this insect, in addition to the 



334 



INSECTS AND DISEASES. 



washing recommended, a strong steam must 
be raised morning and evening by pouring 
water upon the heated flues. 

Trees that have the composition, as di- 
rected for each kind, applied to them in 
autumn, w T ill very seldom be infested by the 
red spider, as the composition destroys all 
the eggs which may be upon that part of 
the tree to which it is applied. Care must 
also be taken to clean the walls. (See the 
Chapter* on nailing fruit trees.) 

On the Aphis, or Green Fly. 

The green fly or plant louse, attacks most 
kinds of fruit trees, but particularly Peaches 
and Nectarines. Their attacks are princi- 
pally directed to the ends of the young shoots, 
and their ravages are rendered the more de- 
structive, by reason of the very critical time 
at which they attack the trees, w T hich is fre- 
quently before the young leaves have ex- 
panded themselves. 

The reason of their being so prevalent at 
so early a season is, that whenever any of 
their eggs have been deposited in any part 
of the tree or wall (as they will frequently 
deposit them at the end of autumn behind 
the buds, or at the divisions of' the shoots) 
they are hatched by the influence of the sun 
in spring, and the first brood of those insects 



INSECTS AND DISEASES. 335 



are generally strong enough to commit their 
ravages by the time that the Peach and Nec- 
tarine trees begin to shoot. The number of 
them increases amazingly fast, almost beyond 
credibility; this has been attributed to the 
east winds, which it is supposed brings them, 
because the east winds generally prevail a 
great deal at the spring of the year. But 
this is altogether a mistake, for it is asserted 
by some writers, that one impregnation of 
the male with the female extends to the 
production of ten generations. 

At the end of the year a small black fly 
may be observed removing in every direc- 
tion about the trees, this fly is at this time 
depositing its eggs in the trees. A hundred 
of its eggs will lay in a very small compass^ 

To destroy their eggs is the best practice 
that can be adopted to get rid of those insects. 
This may be done by carefully applying the 
composition in autumn, as directed for each 
sort of tree. But if they be arrived at an 
active state as seen in spring, immediate at- 
tention must be paid to destroying them in 
some other manner; for if they remain a 
short time without molestation, they bite the 
tender shoot and foliage so as to stop its 
growth for a while, which if done at this 
season, considerabty injures the wood from 
which the fruit is expected next year ; 
they also bite and injure the young fruit. 
The best mode of destroying them in this 



336 



INSECTS AND DISEASES. 



state is, to smoke the trees. They may also 
be destroyed by sprinkling snuff or tobacco 
dust upon them; but the former method is 
cheaper and more efficacious, as the smoke 
will reach where the snuff, &c. could not 
well be applied. The method I adopt in 
smoking the trees is, to make fires, of moist 
pea straw and tobacco mixed together. 

The tobacco I use for this purpose is what 
I grow myself, and is dried previous to 
using. 

If the wind be in such a direction, that if 
fires be made opposite the trees, (and at a few 
feet distance from them,) the smoke will be 
conveyed to them, this must be done ; but 
otherwise a cloth must be fastened over the 
trees and smoke be introduced underneath 
it, by means of a proper smoke bellows. 
Immediately after the smoking has been per- 
formed, let the trees have a forcible washing 
by means of a syringe or garden engine. 
In some seasons a repetition of the smoking 
will be necessary. After the smoking and 
washing has been performed, let the soil 
underneath the tree be trodden well, or beat 
with a spade, otherwise a slight sprinkling 
of boiling water be poured over it, in order 
to destroy those insects which have been 
dislodged and fallen upon the ground. 



INSECTS AND DISEASES, 337 

On the Aphis Lavata, American, or White Bug. 

This is one of the most destructive insects 
which fruit trees are infested with. During 
winter the insect generally disappears, by 
creeping into any diseased rugged parts of 
the tree, or by descending into the ground, 
where it may be found feeding upon the 
roots. Early in spring it issues forth, in- 
creases very rapidly, and will continue its 
ravages until autumn unless destroyed, when 
it a^ain removes as before stated. 

This insect may be destroyed by attending 
to the following directions. When wall trees 
infested by it are pruned in autumn, all 
such parts as are cut off must be burned, 
and the nails and shreds be boiled, &c. (as 
directed in the Chapter on nailing wall trees.) 
When the tree is completely loosened from 
the wall, the wall must be swept and anointed 
with composition, and afterwards the tree in 
every part. The composition must be applied 
by means of a soft brush. The following 
are the ingredients of which the compo- 
sition is made. To four gallons of water, 
add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of 
common sulphur, half an ounce of black pep- 
per, and one gill of train oil; let these be mix- 
ed together and boiled for twenty minutes 
over a slow fire. It must be laid on in a tepid 
state, or what is called new milk warm. 

x x 



338 



INSECTS AND DISEASES. 



After the upper part of the tree is done, it 
will likewise be necessary to pay attention 
to the roots, in order to destroy those that 
have descended into the ground. The means 
which I have adopted with the greatest suc- 
cess are, about one week previous to the time 
of laying the composition upon the upper 
part of the tree, a quantity of necessary ma- 
nure is put into a tub and half that quantity 
of soot. These mixed together with an adi- 
dition of strong soap suds; remain together 
for one week, and are stirred up every 
day during that period. The mixture is 
then poured over the roots of the tree for 
five or six feet round the bole. The be- 
forementioned applications will generally 
at once completely destroy this insect. In 
very bad cases a repetition may be necessary 
the winter following. After the insect is 
destroyed, the trees may have the compo- 
sition adapted to each sort applied, as di- 
rected regularly to be laid on. When Peach, 
Nectarine, or Apricot trees are infested by 
this insect, the composition as before directed 
to be applied to the upper part of the tree, 
must be made weaker, by putting eight gal- 
lons of water to the quantity of ingredients 
described. Standard trees may be treated 
in every respect as wall trees. 

There is another insect of the aphis tribe 
which infests Peach and Nectarine trees, its 
appearance is a dark brown, and its form is 



ON BLIGHT. 



339 



like a boat turned the wrong side upwards. 
It adheres very closely to the branches. Its 
destruction may be effected by attending to 
the following directions : — 

Let the branches infested with it be scraped 
with a blunt knife, and afterwards let the 
tree be anointed with the following compo- 
sition. 

To four gallons of water, add half a pound 
of common sulphur, half a pound of soft soap, 
one ounce of nux vomica, two ounces of to- 
bacco, and a quarter of an ounce of black 
pepper. The nux vomica must be grated 
small previous to boiling. The whole after 
being mixed together, must be boiled for 
half an hour. This will completely destroy 
any insect of this kind which may be left 
upon the tree. 

When the tree is scraped previous to ap- 
plying the composition, a cloth should be 
spread underneath, that the insects dislodged 
may drop into it, and then be destroyed. 

On Blight. 

A sudden transition from cold to heat, or 
from heat to cold, is frequently observed to 
produce blight in fruit trees, and the more 
certainly, as the tree is weak. Indeed anv 
damaged branch upon a healthy tree, from 
its being bruised by a hammer or any other 



340 



ON BLIGHT. 



cause, is the first to be attacked by it. When 
care is taken that the trees are not bruised 
by any means, and properly trained, also 
that they are watered, &c. as directed in this 
treatise; it will but rarely happen that they 
are affected by a blight. 

When a garden is situated in a low, and 
close situation, fruit trees are in such a place 
more liable to be attacked by blight, than in 
a situation of an opposite kind, and in 
the spring, fruit trees in the circumstances 
above stated, will sometimes be effected 
by blight which will destroy the part so 
injured in a day or two; against such 
a blight I know no preventive equal to 
the following. Just before sun rise, let the 
trees be sprinkled over with soft water, which 
sprinkling acts as a medium betwixt the ex- 
tremes of sharp spring frosts succeeded by 
hot sunny days. A permanent covering 
during spring is also a preventive of this 
injury. 

When a branch or two upon a tree is 
affected by blight, it may be perceived by 
the withering of the leaves, which will occa- 
sionally be immediately attacked by numer- 
ous insects. Whenever this is the case, let 
the tree be smoked, and afterwards let the 
injured part be well washed with soap suds, 
and then be sprinkled with sulphur, this 
will sometimes stop the disease; but if the 
affected part so washed, &c. does not appear 



ON CANKER. 



341 



to recover a little, let it then be immediately 
pruned clean away, and close up to a good 
lateral shoot. For when a branch is affected 
by blight, the part first injured becomes in 
a short time shriveled, and the disease has 
always a tendency to spread, which may be 
perceived by a careful examination of that 
part of a branch immediately below that 
which has been first attacked, and by a re- 
moval of the outer (apparently healthy and 
sound) bark that the inner bark has become 
brown, and in some cases nearly black, whilst 
the diseased sap gives out a strong effusive 
smell. This appearance will be found to 
spread down the branch, to a greater or less 
extent till it dies away in a point, and any 
lateral branch which may happen to be 
within reach of this decay, will be destroyed. 

On Canker. 

This is brought upon trees by various 
means, from injudicious pruning, from bruises 
&c. in nailing, or from a bad sub-soil, and 
in some cases it is an inherent disease. If 
the directions for preparing borders, choos- 
ing trees, pruning and anointing them, &c. 
that are laid down in this work, be strictly at- 
tended to, the trees will seldom be affected 
with canker. 

When any canker is observed, the part 



342 



ON CANKER. 



affected must at the winter pruning be cut 
clean out, and the part thus dressed be pared, 
so that no water may be able to lodge in the 
wound. When this is done, let a quantity 
of soot be mixed up with water, after which 
let a little train oil be worked well amongst 
it, but so that the mixture finally remain 
stiff. This must be plastered over all wounds 
that have been dressed, and it will gene- 
rally remain without any securing to the 
branch, &c. The application of this mix- 
ture keeps out the wet from wounds where 
it would be likely to lodge, and both the 
soot and oil promote vegetation. 

When trees are affected by canker from 
having a bad sub-soil, it is in vain to apply 
any remedy till the ground is properly 
drained, and some fresh soil be mixed with 
the natural soil of the border, also the tree 
replanted. 

If through age a tree become diseased 
so that a part of it decays, in addition 
to other means previously directed to be 
employed, the decayed parts must be cut 
clean away, and if required an application 
of this mixture must be given. 

It will sometimes happen that by acci- 
dent a large wound will be made, in 
which case nature itself would in many in- 
stances effect what is desired, but when Ave 
can assist nature it is advisable to do so. 
Therefore whenever a wound is made, let 



ON MILDEW. 



343 



all fractured parts be pruned clean away, so 
that it is brought to as smooth a state as 
possible, and if it be judged that wet is likely 
to be retained without some precaution being 
used, let an application of the mixture as 
directed for cankered wounds, be given. 

Those trees that are affected with gum 
may be treated in the same manner, by 
dressing off the diseased part and applying 
the composition as directed. 

On Mildew. 

Peach and Nectarine trees are very fre- 
quently attacked by this disease, particularly 
so in a low damp situation, because in such 
there is generally stagnant water at the 
bottom of the soil, which is almost certain 
to produce the mildew without great atten- 
tion has been paid to draining, Sec. 

There are some kinds of Peach and Nec- 
tarine trees very subject to this disease, and 
in which it seems to be inherent, but more 
or less appears according to the favourable- 
ness or unfavourableness of the situation in 
which they are planted; or as they may be 
affected by the weather, which will also pro- 
duce it. For although a border be properly 
made and adapted to the trees, yet if very 
foggy weather continues for a few days, and 
the soil of the border is not in a state of 



344 



ON MILDEW. 



moisture similar to that of the atmosphere, 
the trees will generally be attacked by mil- 
dew; but when the weather is foggy, and 
the border be in a tolerable moist state, to 
the depth and extent to which the fibrous 
roots run, the trees will rarely be attacked 
by this disease. This may easily be proved 
in a Peach house, for let the border be kept 
dry, and keep the house for a few days in a 
steam, and the trees will soon mildew. This 
circumstance I have observed for many years, 
and have uniformly found it to be the case. 
Mildew will also be produced from the soil 
of the border having been planted in for 
many years, and during that period has not 
had a renewal of fresh soil mixed with it. 
In that case a renewal of the border (See 
the Chapter on renovating fruit tree borders.) is 
indispensible in order to prevent the disease; 
therefore it must always be endeavoured in 
continued foggy weather to keep the border 
in a proper moist condition. This may be 
effected by giving it one good watering, so 
that it will sink to the depth and extent of 
the fibrous roots. 

When the border in which the trees are 
planted is of a great inclination, so that 
rain will run quickly from it, they will ge- 
nerally be attacked by mildew, and the leaves 
of the trees will also be frequently curled and 
blotched. In this case attention must be 
paid to watering, mulching, &c. 



ON MILDEW. 



345 



When copings of walls are so constructed 
that the drip from them falls upon the trees, 
it will likewise frequently cause the mildew. 
But if the directions given in this work in 
reference to a proper soil for each kind of 
fruit tree, making of the borders, and in 
watering the tops and roots of the trees, be 
carefully attended to, they will very rarely 
be attacked with either mildew, curled, or 
blotched leaf. 

The following practice is what I have 
adopted with great success as a preventive 
of mildew, &c. Just before the bloom ex- 
pands, the tree is sprinkled with water, 
after which it is dusted all over (parti- 
cularly the young shoots) with common 
sulphur mixed with a little Scotch snuff or 
tobacco dust. The beneficial effects of this 
practice I have satisfactorily realised for 
many years. However when a tree is af- 
fected by mildew, let it be immediately 
sprinkled w r ith soap suds and then be dusted 
over with sulphur and snuff as before de- 
scribed. It is the practice of many persons 
to wash those trees that are affected with 
mildew, frequently with soap suds and urine 
and other mixtures, which repeated washings 
tend to promote, instead of destroying it. 

It is also the practice of others to rejiew 
the soil of the border, but although this is 
advantageous in some respects, it will not 
be an entire preventive of mildew, because 



346 



ON THE THRIPS, &C. 



the state of the weather and border as before 
described wilJ affect the tree in some degree. 

On the Thrips. 

This is a very small insect scarcely visible 
to the naked eye. It attacks the young and 
tender leaves of many kinds of fruit trees, 
and does considerable injury to the young 
shoots if not soon destroyed, for by its biting 
the foliage and shoots it will injure them 
so as to stop their growth. It may be de- 
stroyed in the same manner as the green fly. 

On the Honey Dew. 

This is generally known, being a clammy 
substance which coagulates upon the leaves 
and wood of trees. It so much affects them 
sometimes, as to close up not only the pores 
of the leaves, but of the wood also in a very 
great measure. A speedy removal of it is 
highly necessary, as the growth of the tree 
is frequently stopped by it ; this may be 
done by frequent and forcible washing with 
pure soft water. 

On the Dolphin, or Black Beetle, 
This is a small black insect, which attacks 



ON THE CATERPILLAR. 347 



the tops of the young shoots of Cherry trees. 
In may be destroyed in the following manner. 
Let some moist straw, with a small portion 
of common sulphur sprinkled amongst it, be 
burnt pear the trees, so that the smoke will 
be directed to the infested branches, and a 
little time afterwards let the trees have a for- 
cible washing with soap suds. 



On the Caterpillar. 

The most formidable of this species are 
those which attack Gooseberry and Currant 
trees. The following is the practice I have 
adopted for many years with very great suc- 
cess, upon trees of those kinds under my 
care. 

During the winter season, the eggs of the 
insects are deposited in crevices and joints 
of the tree, also in the ground. It is whilst 
they are in this state that my applications 
are directed. As soon as the pruning of the 
trees is completed, I have all the refuse shoots, 
&c. raked clean away and burnt: the trees 
are then washed over with the following 
mixture. A good portion of quick lime 
is put into a tub with some water. In 
three or four days afterwards this is sprinkled 
over the trees. When it is taken out of 
the tub, it is well stirred up, so that a 
portion of the lime is taken with the wa- 



348 ON THE CATERPILLAR. 



ter. Immediately after this has been done, 
a quantity of powdered quick lime is cast 
in amongst the branches. Instead of this the 
trees may be washed with the following com- 
position : to twelve gallons of water, add half 
a pound of tobacco and six ounces of black 
pepper; these must be boiled together for 
half an hour, and when cold, be used. 

At the following spring just before the 
trees come into bloom, I have all the trees 
sprinkled over with lime water, and whilst 
in a wet state I have a quantity of fine 
powdered quick lime thrown amongst them, 
taking care to apply it at the under side of 
the foliage, and that no part of the trees 
is omitted. Also a little quick lime is 
spread over the roots of the tree, or some of 
the mixture as directed in the treatment 
of the American bug. Soon after the 
berries are set, I smoke the trees well by 
burning some moist straw near them, taking 
the advantage of a favourable day, so that 
the smoke will be conveyed to the trees. If 
the practice here laid down be fully attended 
to, it will be very rare that the trees will be 
attacked later in the season, providing that 
there are no other trees in the neighbour- 
hood, which are omitted. For when this is 
the case, the flies during summer will very 
probably visit the trees that have been treated 
as directed, and a numerous progeny will be 
the consequence. When this occurs, let the 



ON THE CATERPILLAR. 



349 



trees be looked over immediately after it is 

i • 

discovered that the insects have begun their 
depredations, and all that can be found, be 
picked off. This is readily done, and is very 
effectual. If the insects increase very rapidly, 
let the trees be sprinkled over with lime water 
and powdered quick lime as directed to be 
used in spring, also some lime be spread over 
the roots. 

There is one of the caterpillar species that 
attacks the Cherry tree. This insect when 
in its fly state is a small brown moth about 
half an inch long. It deposits its eggs 
during the end of summer in various parts 
of the tree, which at the ensuing spring are 
brought to life by the influence of the sun. 
As soon as ever it is arrived at its caterpillar 
state, and is capable of issuing forth, it com- 
mences its ravages. It generally brings two 
or three leaves in contact, in the midst of 
which it fixes a web and there conceals it- 
self during the greater part of the day, but 
towards night it leaves its retreat and com- 
mits its ravages. Trees infested by this in- 
sect must be forcibly washed over with lime 
water, likewise be sprinkled over with pow- 
dered quick lime. This application will de- 
stroy all those it reaches to, but as some are 
so closely concealed they will sometimes 
escape this operation ; a few days afterwards 
the trees must be looked over, and all insects 
that escaped must be pinched to death. 



350 



ON THE CATERPILLAR. 



Although the directions given are effectual 
when pursued, yet it is a practice with me to 
destroy the insects in their larvae state, by 
the application of the proper composition for 
Cherry trees, at the winter pruning. And 
by regularly attending to it, the trees under 
my care have not been attacked by this in- 
sect since its first application, which is nearly 
twenty years. 

Standard trees ought to be treated in the 
same manner as already directed, by anoint- 
ing them with composition as far as is prac- 
ticable, and then washing the trees, by means 
of a syringe or engine during winter, with 
strong lime water and soap suds. Also to 
burn some moist straw underneath the trees, 
at the spring. ( See the Chapter on Orchard 
trees.) 

The means directed to be employed for 
destroying the caterpillar which infests the 
Cherry tree, are equally applicable for the 
destruction of that which generally attacks 
the Apple tree. 



351 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

On Compositions proper for each kind of Fruit Trees. 

There are a great many other kinds of 
insects, than what has been treated of in the 
preceding Chapters, which attack fruit trees, 
but their depredations are not attended 
with such damage as those already men- 
tioned, and their injurious effects will gene- 
rally be obviated by pursuing the method 
which I practice. It is to anoint with com- 
position, all the trees under my care, imme- 
diately after the winter pruning. 

The constitution of some trees will bear a 
much stronger mixture of ingredients than 
others; but the proportions as hereafter de- 
scribed, are what I am certain will not be in- 
jurious to any, but will be effectual in the 
destruction of the larvae of insects. 

DESCRIPTION OF COMPOSITIONS. 

For Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot Trees. 

To eight gallons of water add one pound 
of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, 
and half an ounce of black pepper. 



352 



DESCRIPTION OF COMPOSITIONS. 



For Pear, Apple, Cherry, and Plum Trees. 

To four gallons of water add one pound of 
soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, 
two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of 
black pepper. 



For Vines and Figs. 

To four gallons of water add half a pound 
of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a 
quarter of an ounce of black pepper. 

All those ingredients must be boiled to- 
gether for twenty minutes at least, and when 
in a tepid state are fit for use. 



* 



INDEX. 



ACARUS, or Red Spider, 332. 

Aphis, or Green Fly, 334. 

Aphis Lanata, American or White Bug, 337. 

Apple Tree, On the, as trained against a Wall, 118. 

trained as an Espalier, 142. 

best mode of training the, 88. 

On pruning the, 112. 

Composition for the, 352. 

Apricot Tree, On the, 210. 
Apricots, On thinning, 96. 

Arrangement of the different sorts of Fruit Trees, 11. 
Aspect, on the most proper for each kind of Fruit Tree, 10, 

Black Beetle, or Dolphin, 346. 
Blight, On, 46, 339, 
Blossom, On protection of, 38, 90. 
Borders, On making Fruit Tree, 4. 

On digging, 32, 36. 

On renovating, 320. 



Canker, On, 15, 341. 

Caterpillars, On, 130, 347. 

Cherry Tree, On the May Duke, 190. 



354 



INDEX. 



Cherry Tree, On the Morella, 198. 

On Harrison's Heart, 203. 

On forcing the, 204. 

in Pots, 208. 

Composition, Method and advantages of applying, 84. 

— Proper for each sort of Fruit Tree, 351. 

Currant Tree, On the, 302. 

Dolphin, see Black Beetle. 

Espaliers, On the situation for, 8. 

Formation of, 9. 

Espalier Trees, On planting, 36. 
On training, 46. 

Fig Tree, On the, 292. 

Fruit, On, damaged by frost, 46. 

On gathering, 116, 329. 

Fruit Trees, On choice of, 14. 

On taking up, 17. 

— On planting, 16, 29. 

■ — On the best season for planting, 27. 

« On the best mode of training, 38. 

■ On taking up and replanting large, 114, 311, 312. 

On renovating old and neglected, 315. 

Gooseberry Tree, On the, 298. 

Honey Dew, On the, 346. 

Insects, On, 84, 130, 327, 332. 

Jargonelle Pear Tree, On the, 159. 

Leaves of Fruit Trees, On thinning the, 99, 234. 

Lichen, see Moss. 

Luxuriant Shoots, On, 55, 115. 

Maiden Trees, Preference of, 15. 
Mildew, On, 343. 

Moss or Lichen, On Trees infested with, 112, 318, 327. 
Mulching Fruit Trees, 34, 103, 104, 108. 



/ 



INDEX. 355 

Nailing Fruit Trees, On, 77. 
Nectarine, see Peach. 

Orchard, On the, 322. 

Peach and Nectarine Trees, On, 221. 

On training, 44. 

■■ l - On mulching, 104. 

On forcing trained, 246. 

On forcing, in pots or tubs, 252. 

On thinning the leaves of, 99, 234. 

On impregnating the blossoms of 235 

Peach and Nectarine Trees, On Composition for, 351. 
Peaches and Nectarines, On thinning, 96. 
Pear Tree, On the, 143, 158. 

On impregnating the blossoms of the, 148. 

On training the, 38. 

Pears, On gathering, 167. 

Plum Tree, On the, as trained against a wall, 169. 

■ Trained as an Espalier, 185. 

On forcing the, 185. 

On training the, 38. 

Pruning Fruit Trees, On the best season for, 48. 

Raspberry, On the, 303. 
Roots, On pruning damaged, 18. 

On pruning sound, 22, 113. 

On chafing or rubbing, 21. 

Sickly Fruit Trees, On, 107. 

Smooking Fruit Trees, On, 329. 

Soil, On the most suitable, for Fruit Trees, 1. 

Spurring Fruit Trees, On, 57. 

Spurs, Injurious effect of large, 61. 

Standard Fruit Trees, On priming, 325. 

Strawberry, On the, 305. 

On forcing the, 308. 

Tops of Fruit Trees, On pruning the, 26, 114, 313. 
Thinning Fruit, On, 95. 
Thrips, On, 346. 



Vigorous Fruit Trees, On, 113. 
Vine, On the, 256. 



356 



INDEX. 



Vine, On planting the, 261. 

Vine, Treatment of the, as cultivated in a Vinery, 265. 

as cultivated in a Stove, 276. 

as cultivated in pots or tubs, 284. 

against an open wall, 285. 

Wall, On the advantages of bringing Fruit Trees in close 

contact with the, 60. 
Walls, On colouring, 81, 285. 

On the coping for, 89. 

On anointing, 81. 

Woollen Nets, Advantages of, 90. 

On fixing up and removing, 91. 



Printed by George Ridge, 3, King Street, Sheffield. 



Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: September 2012 

PreservationTechnologies 

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